Strange Front Drag Brakes On The Street???
03-03-2013, 06:27 PM
#1
Strange Front Drag Brakes On The Street??? Hi, I just got a set of Strange front drag brakes, just wondering how would they hold up on the street, Im wanting to use them on my 99 t/a which has full interior, stereo, ac, 18's for the street & slicks/skinnies for racing. Will it wear out the pads extra quick & will they stop decent in occasional stop n go traffic???
03-03-2013, 06:55 PM
#2
03-03-2013, 09:01 PM
#5
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Will they work, possibly. Will they fail, eventually. Could someone get hurt or worse, yes.
I don't see the point in ditching airbags, door bars, running drag brakes and spindles on a street car. The risk is not worth the reward. You have to shave about 100lbs to get a tenth, not worth it to me.
You have to look at the intended use for these parts. Drag components are not built to take a side load, which on the street they will be exposed to.
I don't see the point in ditching airbags, door bars, running drag brakes and spindles on a street car. The risk is not worth the reward. You have to shave about 100lbs to get a tenth, not worth it to me.
You have to look at the intended use for these parts. Drag components are not built to take a side load, which on the street they will be exposed to.
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03-03-2013, 10:00 PM
#8
Lol, my car is not full weight it has sneaky weight reduction & should weigh about 3280 on 18's, -60-80lbs on slicks/skinnies(before race brakes) w/o me & is not a dd hasnt been a dd in a while I might end up selling them so I will keep you guys in mind & deleating the abs would -15lbs, lol just trying to get to vette weight with nothing cut & mostly all the safety/comfort features basically just dont want to gut it or turn it into a race car nothing against it just my personal preferences!!!
03-06-2013, 05:34 PM
#13
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Sure they'll work on the street!!! Right up to the point that they stop working, overheating the brakes will cause them to fade= no brakes. People do it all the time but you are taking a risk.
03-08-2013, 07:50 PM
#14
Staging Lane
Rear brakes are still there.
Stop and go traffic should be ok. But, going 40-60 mph and slamming the brakes off and on can be a problem
Stop and go traffic should be ok. But, going 40-60 mph and slamming the brakes off and on can be a problem
03-08-2013, 08:26 PM
#15
If you call Strange they will tell you they don't recommend them for the street. I know someone who has them on their drag car and I asked them, they said hell no. Brakes are something that is not worth taking the chance in my opinion.
03-15-2013, 06:05 PM
#16
Ive got them on the front of my car, front tubular spindles too, my car will see way more track then street but I'll still drive it occasionally on the weekend and to local car meets, they'll be fine for that sort of thing but I wouldn't try DD with them, just be careful and use common sense
03-16-2013, 02:45 AM
#17
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They will work fine in normal street driving conditions. Ran them on my supra and now on my camaro with no issues at all. Just be aware that they fade quickly under heavy braking from high speed. So dont do multiple high speed runs in a row, give them time to cool down. Pad wear isnt any worse than normal brakes as far as i could tell.
03-16-2013, 11:30 AM
#18
Ran them for 2 years. Few 1k street miles. Cars not super heavy, 3200-3100 90% of the time. Most would 3350 street mode with 2 people and stuff, and 29?? race weight. Stops like stock cold, then get more grippy when warm, and fad when you over heat them. T56 I bet helps more then auto. I downshift now more then use the brakes after getting them, for traffic driving. Stop and go they get too grippy I think to be honest for 45 to slow rolling, in stop and go stuff in lights.
Best way to say it, is use them to remove 150mph per 5mines of driving. You stand on them from 150 and panic stop. You will stop fine, but they well be hot as fawk and making noise colling down. Might have had sparks coming off them for them ect. when you were on them hard.
Or you do 2 or 3, 50-100 pulls and slow down fine to normal street speed fine. But you dont want to be doing hyway pulls back to back racing bikes to 150. But its not like all off a sudden you have no brakes at all. You learn how to read them and (I can anyway) tell how hot there getting and when there going to start to fade.
So just dont be a complete idiot about it and do 0-130+ on a street you have to stop at the end. And do it back to back untill you notice there hot and starting to fade a little. And do one more then at 130... OMG!racebrakes on the street you die!
Best way to say it, is use them to remove 150mph per 5mines of driving. You stand on them from 150 and panic stop. You will stop fine, but they well be hot as fawk and making noise colling down. Might have had sparks coming off them for them ect. when you were on them hard.
Or you do 2 or 3, 50-100 pulls and slow down fine to normal street speed fine. But you dont want to be doing hyway pulls back to back racing bikes to 150. But its not like all off a sudden you have no brakes at all. You learn how to read them and (I can anyway) tell how hot there getting and when there going to start to fade.
So just dont be a complete idiot about it and do 0-130+ on a street you have to stop at the end. And do it back to back untill you notice there hot and starting to fade a little. And do one more then at 130... OMG!racebrakes on the street you die!
03-16-2013, 12:10 PM
#19
I forgot I also have the Pro2 front kit. when they 1st came out a few years ago, it was black calipers, and rotors, but the rotors are 2 piece. They have a alum hat, with the big spline the rotor floats in with a big clip on the back to hold them one. At the time the calipers were not the normal silver/alum. strange was using that funny plating, I think it was like a grey/green but didnt really like it? They changed there all black now 
The Pro2 are 1 pound lighter be rotor, cost about $100 more for the pair (at the time) over the solid steel rotors. But you just need to replace the rotors and not the hat so that cheaper. The hats are thicker then the steel so will more you rim out a little, I htink it was .060? And the inside of the rotor hat sticks out a little more for the clip, some brake kits that hit the caliper bracket, but that was when they 1st came out and starge didnt know every spindle,rear end setup. I htink some kits you can;t get them pro2 rotos but some you can. I had to change my front caliper brackets to counter sunk flush bolts to clear, the rear didnt fit or what the extra rim width to tuck my 28x10.5s so when back to the 1peice rotors. I wanted the better rotors on the front really anyway, over the rear. Another thing is the floating rotor, is its better for heating up and cooling, strange start they have been testing that style for promods and other heavy cars and they rotors hold up better. Beceause the rotor, is just the rotor not attached, or machine with the hat to it. It heats and cools centered, and alone its own symmetrical. The rotor hat is a offset support and heat sink, so they said the rotor grows form heat not symmetrically from that. It kinda concaves outward for the hat. So its not as symmetric as the floating flat rotor is hot and cold. The fixed calipers work, but a floating caliper is better. And the pads have and stay the same contact patch (flat) with the floating rotor hot and cold.
And the floating rotor has less drag Less pad drag
I took my front rotor apart last spring to check them out, they were not a free, and "loose" like the rotors were all fresh and new. They did move, but more like the flexed in the slots then loose. It was just from brake dust and the dusty, and dirty water crap that gets on everything street driving. I took a soft wire brush and cleaned the spine parts, there wasn't really any junk then gets in there. It wasn't super clean like new, but not to plug them up so they didn't have any movement. And I could tell what side of the spline was the braking face, and what was not. Had some slight marks were the black anodize was warn, but not a burr or anything, the machine was really nice, its like the smooth corner raduise acme thread, not the fine spline btw. I would have spend some time with a little fine and cleaned it all a up nice if it was warn.
But this isn't a setup you should be driving around in the rain, and putting hundreds of miles on. Its a all out race setup, you can street drive. But no one is going to tell you to.
Still running the same rotors and pads never had to change them. Still have lots of meat on the pads, rotors are great no warped or anything.
I have the 3rdgen kit for lighter spindles, but its the same rotors,calipers,pads.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0312.jpg
kit new
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...Picture016.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...Picture035.jpg
onfires car, pro2 4th gen kit, on stock spindles (aug 2007)
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...24007Large.jpg
The Pro2 are 1 pound lighter be rotor, cost about $100 more for the pair (at the time) over the solid steel rotors. But you just need to replace the rotors and not the hat so that cheaper. The hats are thicker then the steel so will more you rim out a little, I htink it was .060? And the inside of the rotor hat sticks out a little more for the clip, some brake kits that hit the caliper bracket, but that was when they 1st came out and starge didnt know every spindle,rear end setup. I htink some kits you can;t get them pro2 rotos but some you can. I had to change my front caliper brackets to counter sunk flush bolts to clear, the rear didnt fit or what the extra rim width to tuck my 28x10.5s so when back to the 1peice rotors. I wanted the better rotors on the front really anyway, over the rear. Another thing is the floating rotor, is its better for heating up and cooling, strange start they have been testing that style for promods and other heavy cars and they rotors hold up better. Beceause the rotor, is just the rotor not attached, or machine with the hat to it. It heats and cools centered, and alone its own symmetrical. The rotor hat is a offset support and heat sink, so they said the rotor grows form heat not symmetrically from that. It kinda concaves outward for the hat. So its not as symmetric as the floating flat rotor is hot and cold. The fixed calipers work, but a floating caliper is better. And the pads have and stay the same contact patch (flat) with the floating rotor hot and cold.
And the floating rotor has less drag
Less pad drag I took my front rotor apart last spring to check them out, they were not a free, and "loose" like the rotors were all fresh and new. They did move, but more like the flexed in the slots then loose. It was just from brake dust and the dusty, and dirty water crap that gets on everything street driving. I took a soft wire brush and cleaned the spine parts, there wasn't really any junk then gets in there. It wasn't super clean like new, but not to plug them up so they didn't have any movement. And I could tell what side of the spline was the braking face, and what was not. Had some slight marks were the black anodize was warn, but not a burr or anything, the machine was really nice, its like the smooth corner raduise acme thread, not the fine spline btw. I would have spend some time with a little fine and cleaned it all a up nice if it was warn.
But this isn't a setup you should be driving around in the rain, and putting hundreds of miles on. Its a all out race setup, you can street drive. But no one is going to tell you to.
Still running the same rotors and pads never had to change them. Still have lots of meat on the pads, rotors are great no warped or anything.
I have the 3rdgen kit for lighter spindles, but its the same rotors,calipers,pads.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...n/IMAG0312.jpg
kit new
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...Picture016.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...Picture035.jpg
onfires car, pro2 4th gen kit, on stock spindles (aug 2007)
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...24007Large.jpg
Last edited by studderin; 03-16-2013 at 12:22 PM.
03-17-2013, 08:12 AM
#20
the brakes cannot be trusted on the street. you need some serious stopping power at certain times out on the highway, and those brakes may not be up for the task. not worth the risk, and could cause you some issues if an adjuster finds out after any sort of accident.