LOL 
weight reduction whores please step in
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TECH Apprentice
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From: Springfield, IL
weight reduction ****** please step in so i am trying to cut as much weight as possible, i have cut out all unnecessary brackets via spot weld cutter, except for this big piece right here in the pic. i didn't know if it helped strengthen the body, of if it's okay to cut it out; or should i just hole saw it to ****? also, what about the inside panels like where the side speaker mounts; can that be cut or hole sawed without problems?
as far as wiring, i really dont feel like re-wiring the entire car, but then again i dont have any speakers, heater, a/c, ect. all of the wiring running down the passenger side seems to be stereo and alarm, is it possible to just cut each individual wire then cap it, or will this cause issues? i know this would be extremely ghetto, but would it would without a down fall?
as far as wiring, i really dont feel like re-wiring the entire car, but then again i dont have any speakers, heater, a/c, ect. all of the wiring running down the passenger side seems to be stereo and alarm, is it possible to just cut each individual wire then cap it, or will this cause issues? i know this would be extremely ghetto, but would it would without a down fall?
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TECH Apprentice
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From: Springfield, IL
lol. so i guess that means i can do all of the above without any issues? is it easier to cut out this big bracket or cut each spot weld? some of them seem hard to get. and what's the easiest way to remove that white glue stuff, i imagine there are spot welds back there also... Torch and putty knife, or a wire wheel on a drill to get the seam sealer off. Spot weld cutter will take that piece off you are talking about, the inner sheet metal you can hole saw just be careful with the drill bit length that protrudes out the end of your cutter... the outer sheet metal isn't far away depending on where you are.
the best way to get the armrest metal out 100% is to drill the spot welds. Its not gona be as clean as a nice flat plate on a flat spot, the wheel tub is streched so its really thin on the outside bends, as I see you went tho with the 3/8th drill. And some of the spots weld then did on corners, or off the side so it melted more then just the nice round spot weld.
clean dig all the seam sealer foam out so you can see the ends off all the tabs on it good. And I like to have a sand disc (smaller the better) so I can buzz the paint off flat, over were you think the spot welds are. Then you can see them center of them better. use the paint so show the low spots. center punch or get a small 3/16 -1/8th stiff stubby drill (center cutting) or a center drill and just drill the center of the spot weld the 1st layer, use that hole as a guild for the spot weld cutter, if you have the spring loaded center style. And with the little starter hole you can angle the hole saw better in the spot weld in in a corner or on a bump and keep it there without it wondering.
Dill the easy ones off a tab to get it loose, then you can pry a little on that. you can bend the rest a little carfully to get to them better and not damage anything, thats can help. And you don't wlays have to drill it 100%, get a stiff putty knife and you can pound it under the layers and get them to pop somtimes if you cant drill it 100% square, or its a doubled weld, or you drilled it off a little. But the metal in thin on the curve of the wheel tub so it will tear out easy. Your probably gona have to weld some of the holes up anyway. You can drill them right out on the middle panel in the fender were the speakers are, your just have the holes ther, but thats the easiest ones to get to and drill out clean. the others the tire is back there. hahaha
clean dig all the seam sealer foam out so you can see the ends off all the tabs on it good. And I like to have a sand disc (smaller the better) so I can buzz the paint off flat, over were you think the spot welds are. Then you can see them center of them better. use the paint so show the low spots. center punch or get a small 3/16 -1/8th stiff stubby drill (center cutting) or a center drill and just drill the center of the spot weld the 1st layer, use that hole as a guild for the spot weld cutter, if you have the spring loaded center style. And with the little starter hole you can angle the hole saw better in the spot weld in in a corner or on a bump and keep it there without it wondering.
Dill the easy ones off a tab to get it loose, then you can pry a little on that. you can bend the rest a little carfully to get to them better and not damage anything, thats can help. And you don't wlays have to drill it 100%, get a stiff putty knife and you can pound it under the layers and get them to pop somtimes if you cant drill it 100% square, or its a doubled weld, or you drilled it off a little. But the metal in thin on the curve of the wheel tub so it will tear out easy. Your probably gona have to weld some of the holes up anyway. You can drill them right out on the middle panel in the fender were the speakers are, your just have the holes ther, but thats the easiest ones to get to and drill out clean. the others the tire is back there. hahaha
Last edited by studderin; Apr 11, 2013 at 10:41 PM.
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not sure. it was one of those things. take the interior out, get some beer, spot weld drill, see what you can fill a box up, or drywall bucket with extra metal. do that a few times, it adds up, 2pounds here 5pounds here. all the 2 pounds 20spots, after you do the 10 20-40pound easy things. 3300, then 3150, then 2900, then 2760... 
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 161
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From: Georgetown TX.
the best way to get the armrest metal out 100% is to drill the spot welds. Its not gona be as clean as a nice flat plate on a flat spot, the wheel tub is streched so its really thin on the outside bends, as I see you went tho with the 3/8th drill. And some of the spots weld then did on corners, or off the side so it melted more then just the nice round spot weld.
clean dig all the seam sealer foam out so you can see the ends off all the tabs on it good. And I like to have a sand disc (smaller the better) so I can buzz the paint off flat, over were you think the spot welds are. Then you can see them center of them better. use the paint so show the low spots. center punch or get a small 3/16 -1/8th stiff stubby drill (center cutting) or a center drill and just drill the center of the spot weld the 1st layer, use that hole as a guild for the spot weld cutter, if you have the spring loaded center style. And with the little starter hole you can angle the hole saw better in the spot weld in in a corner or on a bump and keep it there without it wondering.
Dill the easy ones off a tab to get it loose, then you can pry a little on that. you can bend the rest a little carfully to get to them better and not damage anything, thats can help. And you don't wlays have to drill it 100%, get a stiff putty knife and you can pound it under the layers and get them to pop somtimes if you cant drill it 100% square, or its a doubled weld, or you drilled it off a little. But the metal in thin on the curve of the wheel tub so it will tear out easy. Your probably gona have to weld some of the holes up anyway. You can drill them right out on the middle panel in the fender were the speakers are, your just have the holes ther, but thats the easiest ones to get to and drill out clean. the others the tire is back there. hahaha
clean dig all the seam sealer foam out so you can see the ends off all the tabs on it good. And I like to have a sand disc (smaller the better) so I can buzz the paint off flat, over were you think the spot welds are. Then you can see them center of them better. use the paint so show the low spots. center punch or get a small 3/16 -1/8th stiff stubby drill (center cutting) or a center drill and just drill the center of the spot weld the 1st layer, use that hole as a guild for the spot weld cutter, if you have the spring loaded center style. And with the little starter hole you can angle the hole saw better in the spot weld in in a corner or on a bump and keep it there without it wondering.
Dill the easy ones off a tab to get it loose, then you can pry a little on that. you can bend the rest a little carfully to get to them better and not damage anything, thats can help. And you don't wlays have to drill it 100%, get a stiff putty knife and you can pound it under the layers and get them to pop somtimes if you cant drill it 100% square, or its a doubled weld, or you drilled it off a little. But the metal in thin on the curve of the wheel tub so it will tear out easy. Your probably gona have to weld some of the holes up anyway. You can drill them right out on the middle panel in the fender were the speakers are, your just have the holes ther, but thats the easiest ones to get to and drill out clean. the others the tire is back there. hahaha
i think they are pretty sensitive if they were cut with the battery hooked up. i made an oops and started tacking my rollbar in and forgot to unhook the battery. my odometer no longer works. its just a dim lit red box.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
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From: Springfield, IL
yeah i forgot to unhook the battery. mine is also just a dim lit red box. not that the milage actually mattered since the engine/trans/suspension has all been changed, so it would only tell the mileage on the body. lol
Glad to see im not the only one who goes thru desperate measures to lose a lb here and there LOL Good stuff! Pretty sure I got them items out, wont be hard to check being as i have no carpet or panels