Joker

I have been advised to spend the extra cash on buying a line lock /roll control so as to not screw up my brakes when I do get drag radials and go to do a burn out to heat them. I have an M6 and really don't want o screw up anyting more than I have to, specially brakes...How would I do a power brake any way with the M6? Any suggestions? How much does this cost?, Good brand? Experience with this? Input from you vets out there please....

foff667

iTrader: (2)

pump your brakes, set the line lock push in the clutch, bring up the revs, drop the clutch, rev the motor in 1st or 2nd depending on gearing to 5500ish, unset line lock and go to line i have the slp unit but ive got an auto.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

foff667 summed it up pretty good. It is a very inexpensive mod that will create less stress on your drivetrain components and in the end costing you less money i.e. warping rotors, premature wearing brake pads.

You may want to consider our kits, we have 3 different styles available that have added features not found in the SLP kit. Our "best buy" kit sells for 114.99 SHIPPED.

You can view them at HERE

Steve

Joker

Thanks for the response. I'll be talking to you very soon about this!

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

Steve10:What's the difference between the 3 solenoids?

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

An estetics standpoint is the primary difference.

Essentially they all work the same. One would never know the difference between any of them and how they function. If you like one style over the other from an appearance standpoint, then that is the one that you should choose.

We utilize all three different models in the different configurations for someone whom has to have a certain type or want a certain style look.

Hope this helps,

Steve

99MONGOOSE

$114.99 compared to $189.99 is a big difference for looks Are all three solonoids rebuildable? I know the activation process for a line lock while doing a burnout in the wate box, but how are the M6 guys using a line lock at the staging lights? How do you have enough time to get staged, pump the clutch to make sure the shifter engages all gates properly, stop the car at the second light, pump the brakes, activate the line-lock, get the car to launch RPM while watching the tree, release the lock and dump the clutch ALL in the short time of pre-stage and stage and launch? When I am at the track here is my procedure with ET STREETS on my SS:
>pull into the burnout box and back up into the water
>shift into 1st and rev to 3500rpm and dump the clutch to fully wet the tires
>pull up to the point where my tires are on just barely damp pavement
>shift into 2nd gear and rev to 5500, dump clutch while lightly grabbing brake
>continue burnout until about 8 seconds after I have full smoke
>let off brake completely and floor gas up to about 10 ft shy of pre-stage
>pump clutch pedal and row through all gears ensuring engagement
>pre-stage and rev to desired RPM
>slowly slip clutch to stage holding desired RPM
>upon 3rd yellow I dump clutch

I let the other car begin their burnout first so I have enough time for my steps. Once staged(the other car is already staged and waiting) I certainly don't have enough time to pump brakes and activate the lock and bring the rpms up to desired rpm and all that crap. How are you all doing it? Are you de-activating(hitting the button)the line-lock while the tree is coming down, like on the 1st or 2nd yellow or what? Some guys have the lock switch on the dash or in-front of the shifter; how the hell are you doing that? When I dump the lcutch on my slicks I get thrown back like I just got rear-ended by a SEMI(easy way to get whiplash)!

foff667

iTrader: (2)

its really hard to use a linelock in a car at the line...cuz remember its only meant for the front tires so if you try and preload the rear you arent using braking force just the force of the ground...my friends and I had talked about doing a linelock on my manual box truck but it just seemed to complicated in how it would have to be setup to use it properly to launch off of.

lata
Bill

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Bill is correct, line locks can be a bit difficult at the line. It's not a very good substitute for a transbrake:-). The line lock is primarily used for heating up your tires...looks cool too

The prices vary quite a bit due to the cost of the parts...but as mentioned, if you want a specific lock setup...we have it covered. All solenoids are rebuildable...

The B-001 kit is defitinly the "best buy" kit...as it's denoted.

Steve

PS, the brakes don't need "pumped". Depress the brake, depress the line lock activation switch, release the brake...your set....your fronts will be locked for as long as you hold the button down. When your ready, just release the button and you will release brake pressure.

When the line lock is NOT going to be used, flip the master arm switch which turns off the LED indicator lamp as well as the solenoid ciruit so there is no accidental activation of the circuit.

AsianIce25

iTrader: (2)

They all pretty much do the same thing, only one costs less and looks a lil ghetto if you will... the cheap one, you can but from jegs (who makes their own jegs model) for $29.99 or something like that. an install kit is like another 20-30 or you can just buy your own brake lines and do it yourself. im going to do this sometime, but ill get the cheap one and put rubber o-ring type things between the selenoid and the strut tower so it doesnt rub and rust. im also going to paint mine black or orange. i think the jegs one is already black though. summit sells em cheap too. if you dont get a 120 hurst roll control, it can be done for under $100 easy.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Asainice,

I can appretiate your enthusium. As always, I like to see people take it upon themselves to create/build customized parts for their own car. Doing this has a certain self-accomplishment value. I wholeheartly approve of people creating new parts, in the process learning more about their vehicle.

I tend to disagree with the less expensive one looking "ghetto". I feel it is a very nice piece. If one wanted to color match it with the underhood, it can be disassembled for painting very easily.

Just to help anyone that is interested in building their own kit, I believe that one will find from a cost perspective(if the goal is to save money) only, it is not as inexpensive as one would think...it may end up costing more.

The jegs line lock cost 46.00 plus ~8 dollars shipping. You will need a line installation kit, which costs ~28.00. (if you purchase the parts seperatly i.e. line and fittings, you will spend ~15.00 lines, and ~1.75/fitting...they will add up close to 28.00 anyways...so just pick up the kit). You will also need a conversion kit as the line installation kits do not include the correct fittings that are needed to make your ABS and Master cyl connections....cost ~15.00. You will also need a some sort of control switch as well as the necessary fittings in addition to wire...~20.00. Our kits include an LED indictator as well as a master arm switch, I highly recommend including ithis feature in your kit as from a safety perspective it is important. Right now you are at ~117.00 which is above the cost of our kits complete and shipped.

DO NOT USE COMPRESSION SLEEVE FITTINGS ON YOUR KITS...only use approved double flare, bubble flare etc connections.

If you can find a part here or their a few dollars less expensive, if you have never flared a line, or bent one, plan on purchasing extra line as you may damage a piece here or there from "practicing" until you get it just right.

If you do not have a double flare tool and bubble flare tool, then you will need to purchase these as well, you can purchase a cheap double flare tool for ~30.00 but it won't do bubble flares you will need this feature...the better tools that enable this feature are in excess of 100.00. You will also need a tube bender, bending by hand can get you by, but it can really make an install look poor.

As mentioned in the beginning, cost isn't everything. Sometimes to be able to say "I made this" is a nice thing to boast!

If one is purchasing the seperate parts for only to save money, I believe that unless you have many of the parts necessary already sitting around, it will not only cost more money but ALOT more time driving around picking up what you need. Not to mention actual $$ spent. For the guys trying to save money, a kit pre-made is well worth the time and aggrevation.

Hope this helps anyone else out there.

Steve
Pres.

aram

iTrader: (7)

Steve is right. Working with brakes/brake lines sucks. I removed the ABS unit on my LT1 and fabbed new lines to the rear of the car and from the master cyl to the line lock. Chasing down metric to standard fittings and bending and flaring lines isn't really fun. If you have a stock car, I'd just get a kit so it bolts right in and you don't have to worry about it.. plus it will probably look nicer.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

Aram,

I'm glad it worked out in the end for you. I hope that no one misinterprets my post, I certainly am not telling you guys that you have to purchase our kit...my point is that if your doing the job for own self satisfaction that is great and I definitly commend you for a job well done. If one is doing it though to save money, it probably isn't as cost savings/time savings as one may think initially.

We would like to create a kit for you guys that enable you to completely remove your master cyl and have new lines (as Aram has done)...what we've run into is how to ship the lines...weight isn't a factor, its the long lines and bends that create the need for such a large box for such small items...lol. Shipping costs become astronomical in comparison to the cost for the parts.

It boils down to there are so many ways lines can be plumbed per specific needs...working with the parts with the car in hand is best.

We can supply seperate hard to find metric fittings etc if anyone needs them.

Steve