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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 06:34 AM
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Default launch technique

Last year i was hitting 1.6 60 foots with my tci 3600 stall and 373 gears and MT drag radials(2754017). I could flash the converter off the line and keep it WOT without any tire spin..

This year...lowest 60 foot i can get is a 1.9 with a yank ss4000 and same gear and tire.

I have run faster this year by 2 tenths but my setup is making more power...What do i need to do to get this in the 1.5-1.6 60 foot again?

I do have LCA's, LCA brackets, dropped tire pressure to 15psi..

car is a 2001 convertible with built 4l60e with 10 bolt, stock springs and shocks.

I did lift front tire about 3" from the start but then it spins out and comes back down.

If you need more info let me know

Thanks.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 06:46 AM
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needs suspension. Its not keeping the tire planted.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by alexus6798
needs suspension. Its not keeping the tire planted.
Ok, what will i benift from the most? examples please
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 06:54 AM
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You can start with the rear shocks. Sounds like the suspension unloaded. You can post this in the suspension section and get more detailed results as it is surely to be suspension related.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 08:16 AM
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I agree with above. Good set of adjustable shocks should do the trick
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 08:36 AM
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What springs should i run in the rear with say a set of strange or QA1 adjustable rear shock?
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 08:56 AM
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I would just change the rear shocks for now. The springs are easy to change later if needed. Get some adjustable rear shocks and go from there. I am planning on going with the Viking double adjustable rear shocks myself.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 10:30 AM
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Also front shocks can do this. Need a good shock up front to get the front up, keep it up to transfer the weight and rear to keep it planted.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 07:47 PM
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You didn't give us much to go on, try removing the front swaybar, then do front shocks and springs and put a good torque arm on it. 15 psi is a little low for a dr, especially if they're on stock wheels (they tend to slip on chrome wheels). Try borrowing a set of 15" wheels with MT drs, more sidewall on the 15s will help traction. Good Luck!
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 07:58 PM
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Front shocks will make more difference that rear shocks unless the rear shocks are just flat worn out. I've gone low 1.30 60's with stock rear shocks. Foot braking on 9" tires.
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Wright
Front shocks will make more difference that rear shocks unless the rear shocks are just flat worn out.
^ This.
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Wright
Front shocks will make more difference that rear shocks unless the rear shocks are just flat worn out. I've gone low 1.30 60's with stock rear shocks. Foot braking on 9" tires.
I agree also!

Fronts and remove the front sway bar and try it again
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 10:15 AM
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Agree, you need to loosen the front up to get it to transfer weight and keep the rear planted. A set of DA fronts and ditch the sway bar will net results quick.
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 11:21 AM
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Do you have an adjustable TA? This will make a big difference with the tires unloading.
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 11:31 AM
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Thanks for the replies, Front swaybar is already removed. I Dont have an adjustable TA yet as still on the 10 bolt housing..(borrowed time i know). I'm going to get 4 shocks/springs and see where that goes..also have a set of skinnies for the next race weekend to help remove a little weight from the front.

How much difference is a a 15" tire on the rear than a 17"?
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 11:42 AM
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The 15" has 2 more inches of sidewall - it's a huge difference.
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