First Pass
Don't launch it in second. Practice feathering and launching. Do it on the backroad you mentioned earlier, the more you practice the better you'll get. I was nervous my first time in my old lid/cat-back T/A and ran a 15 the first time, then a 14.5, then after two or three more tries and getting comfortable I did a 13.6 with a 2.0 60ft on street tires. I think once you get more comfortable and see improvements you'll be more confident which in turn will give you better times. Maybe see if any other M6 LS1 guys in your area go at the same time you do to help you out.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: York, PA
thanks and im going to get to the track earlier so i can get some passes in and not just one so i can get comfortable and not just run once and think about everything i did wrong its been eating at me all week so ill post what i ran after this Friday
Best way to start is as mentioned go around the water box, do a 3 second 1st gear burnout to clean the rocks and sand off, then launch from 2000 rpm bogging the engine and let the torque pull you out. Kinda slip the clutch, not a full dump, and use throttle to keep the rpms at 2000 until the clutch is fully released, then smash the throttle to the floor, bring it to right before the rev limiter and powershift that bitch.
And just incase, powershifting is foot on the floor no lift shifting, takes a bit of practice to get it right without blowing your motor because if you miss, could be bad. Get a good shifter like the pro 5.0, B&M or mgw, and get comfortable with it. On the street, start by lifting to 1/4 throttle as you shift about 200rpm before the rev limiter (don't know on LS1s but it's way past redline) and kick the clutch and shift, keeping your foot on the clutch for the press down and back up, then 1/2 throttle when you master that, then 3/4, then full. Then if your real good, you can kick the clutch and slide your foot off the side when it gets to the bottom as it can retract faster than your foot. I'm not at the foot slide point yet, but powershifting can drop 1/2 second from your time. I like my B&M over the hurst, but the B&M has about a 7" throw but is very accurate and easy to move, mgw has about a 3" throw, but IMO feels harder to move and harder to be as accurate, although it is probably regarded as the best according to this board.
And just incase, powershifting is foot on the floor no lift shifting, takes a bit of practice to get it right without blowing your motor because if you miss, could be bad. Get a good shifter like the pro 5.0, B&M or mgw, and get comfortable with it. On the street, start by lifting to 1/4 throttle as you shift about 200rpm before the rev limiter (don't know on LS1s but it's way past redline) and kick the clutch and shift, keeping your foot on the clutch for the press down and back up, then 1/2 throttle when you master that, then 3/4, then full. Then if your real good, you can kick the clutch and slide your foot off the side when it gets to the bottom as it can retract faster than your foot. I'm not at the foot slide point yet, but powershifting can drop 1/2 second from your time. I like my B&M over the hurst, but the B&M has about a 7" throw but is very accurate and easy to move, mgw has about a 3" throw, but IMO feels harder to move and harder to be as accurate, although it is probably regarded as the best according to this board.
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; Sep 5, 2013 at 05:44 AM.
He is obviously new to drag racing and wanted some advice from people with more experience. Last time I checked being a sarcastic ***** wasn't the best way to help someone 
Anyways OP:
Don't worry about your pass, my first time ever on street tires I ran a 14.6...just takes some seat time in the car! In an M6 car on street tires it's a little more tricky than launching an auto car. I agree that you will need some stickier tires (Preferably a decent set of DR's) to help with the traction. You will not need a full slick at your power level unless you are trying going all out.
Good info, I agree with the entire post except for dumping the clutch. Dumping the clutch will result in the car spinning on street tires and he'll just be right back where he started.
I would suggest trying 2500-3000rpm, and slipping the clutch quickly but in a controlled manor. I say quickly because you don't want to slip it too much and burn it up. Try this out and see how it works! It's going to take some seat time and a good amount of passes in the car until you get comfortable and know how the car is going to react. If you do end up getting a set of DR's do the same thing and raise the RPM until you find the threshold of the tires hooking.
Shifting will also be important in achieving an optimal ET. Make sure your shifts are nice and quick as to not waste any time and keep the car in the power band as best as possible.
As far as other factors a little suspension work wouldn't hurt. Some LCA's and Relocation brackets are a cheap easy mod to keep the tires planted. An upgraded Tq arm as well if you want.
Lastly make sure the car has a good tune so it is safe and you can squeeze every last bit out of it! Good luck OP, keep trying and get out there as much as possible to get that practice.
Anyways OP:
Don't worry about your pass, my first time ever on street tires I ran a 14.6...just takes some seat time in the car! In an M6 car on street tires it's a little more tricky than launching an auto car. I agree that you will need some stickier tires (Preferably a decent set of DR's) to help with the traction. You will not need a full slick at your power level unless you are trying going all out.
Good info, I agree with the entire post except for dumping the clutch. Dumping the clutch will result in the car spinning on street tires and he'll just be right back where he started.
I would suggest trying 2500-3000rpm, and slipping the clutch quickly but in a controlled manor. I say quickly because you don't want to slip it too much and burn it up. Try this out and see how it works! It's going to take some seat time and a good amount of passes in the car until you get comfortable and know how the car is going to react. If you do end up getting a set of DR's do the same thing and raise the RPM until you find the threshold of the tires hooking.
Shifting will also be important in achieving an optimal ET. Make sure your shifts are nice and quick as to not waste any time and keep the car in the power band as best as possible.
As far as other factors a little suspension work wouldn't hurt. Some LCA's and Relocation brackets are a cheap easy mod to keep the tires planted. An upgraded Tq arm as well if you want.
Lastly make sure the car has a good tune so it is safe and you can squeeze every last bit out of it! Good luck OP, keep trying and get out there as much as possible to get that practice.
Good luck OP with more ***-seat time you'll knock those times down. There are some good techniques posted in here
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: York, PA
ok made it down to the track last night not as early as i wanted due to work but i got a pass in, i spun the tires for 3-5 secs, i did not launch it, i pulled out as if i were at a stop sign like you guys told me and ramp up the throttle i did spin a little bit in 1st but this resulted in a 13.5 i was pleased with that compared to what i did last week. what do these run stock so i know how far out i am? thank you guys for all the help it is def working. im going to get a set of drag radials for my extra wheels, i just ordered 2 deep dish wheels for the rear so with my 2 spare wheels im going to get a set of either mt et street radials or nitto nt555r and start launching it and start speed shifting it and see where i get
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: York, PA
Best way to start is as mentioned go around the water box, do a 3 second 1st gear burnout to clean the rocks and sand off, then launch from 2000 rpm bogging the engine and let the torque pull you out. Kinda slip the clutch, not a full dump, and use throttle to keep the rpms at 2000 until the clutch is fully released, then smash the throttle to the floor, bring it to right before the rev limiter and powershift that bitch.
And just incase, powershifting is foot on the floor no lift shifting, takes a bit of practice to get it right without blowing your motor because if you miss, could be bad. Get a good shifter like the pro 5.0, B&M or mgw, and get comfortable with it. On the street, start by lifting to 1/4 throttle as you shift about 200rpm before the rev limiter (don't know on LS1s but it's way past redline) and kick the clutch and shift, keeping your foot on the clutch for the press down and back up, then 1/2 throttle when you master that, then 3/4, then full. Then if your real good, you can kick the clutch and slide your foot off the side when it gets to the bottom as it can retract faster than your foot. I'm not at the foot slide point yet, but powershifting can drop 1/2 second from your time. I like my B&M over the hurst, but the B&M has about a 7" throw but is very accurate and easy to move, mgw has about a 3" throw, but IMO feels harder to move and harder to be as accurate, although it is probably regarded as the best according to this board.
And just incase, powershifting is foot on the floor no lift shifting, takes a bit of practice to get it right without blowing your motor because if you miss, could be bad. Get a good shifter like the pro 5.0, B&M or mgw, and get comfortable with it. On the street, start by lifting to 1/4 throttle as you shift about 200rpm before the rev limiter (don't know on LS1s but it's way past redline) and kick the clutch and shift, keeping your foot on the clutch for the press down and back up, then 1/2 throttle when you master that, then 3/4, then full. Then if your real good, you can kick the clutch and slide your foot off the side when it gets to the bottom as it can retract faster than your foot. I'm not at the foot slide point yet, but powershifting can drop 1/2 second from your time. I like my B&M over the hurst, but the B&M has about a 7" throw but is very accurate and easy to move, mgw has about a 3" throw, but IMO feels harder to move and harder to be as accurate, although it is probably regarded as the best according to this board.
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Nice improvement 02silver. With your mods and if everything is right on your car tune up wise your car should go into the 12's on regular tires. Just try to make clean passes w/o the car bobbleing anywhere.
What's your location?
What's your location?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: York, PA
that's what i thought but wanted to be safe and ask, well since were on that topic what should be done for racing to prevent things from breaking? also what all can be done to get the suspension to get the car to hook up better? also what brand do you recommend as far as parts? also i was looking at QA1 coil overs are they worth the money? sorry for all the ?'s im just trying to learn everything i can about getting this car faster my goal is to get into 10secs any information is greatly appreciated thanks.
