Which Slick for a Stick
Which Slick for a Stick Alright Gents, a while back I was asking about a drag radial and it turns out it was better than a street tire, but still limited on launching RPMS. I still spin when trying to do 3K and up rpm launches.
I have a stick car and looking into bias ply. Which would would best best? I would like to go tubeless if possible and on a 15X8 rim.
26 or 28"
M&H
Hoosier QTP
Mickey ET
I have a stick car and looking into bias ply. Which would would best best? I would like to go tubeless if possible and on a 15X8 rim.
26 or 28"
M&H
Hoosier QTP
Mickey ET
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Verdad Gallardo For a bias tire that is used exclusely at the track it's fine to run no tubes...but for a street driven bias tire you really should run tubes. It's safer, increases stability, and the tire will last longer. If you run tubes then you must screw the tire to the rim or run bead locks.
A taller tire usually sticks better but will also affect your final gear ratio. The questions to ask: Are you having a traction issue and/or are you crossing the line at peak rpm?
I'm having traction issues, but not crossing at max RPMs in 3rd, I have to shift into 4th.
I really do need some help. I have been reviewing all of Summit Racing' Slicks and I can't seem to find what would be best for me. The sizes are so funky!
I have a 15X8 rim, 3.73 Rear end gear, Stick car. Can someone who has already tackled this headache assist? I can't even find a filter for "stiff wall".
I have a 15X8 rim, 3.73 Rear end gear, Stick car. Can someone who has already tackled this headache assist? I can't even find a filter for "stiff wall".
I know everyone recommends a 28 inch tire but I chose to stay with a 26 inch tire because I didn't want to modify the wheel wells. I really like this tire, it really hooks great: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mickey-Thompson-3053S-Mickey-Thompson-ET-Drag-Slick-/111132851795?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e008be53&vxp=mtr
Its actually a 26.5 inch tall tire, been running it tubeless. Just installed screws on the backside cuz the wheel was spinning on the tire.
Its actually a 26.5 inch tall tire, been running it tubeless. Just installed screws on the backside cuz the wheel was spinning on the tire.
If your primary use is track go with ET drags. I have ran both ET street radials & bias. The bias is much better but not as good as the ET drag. You can even drive them on the street, they will wear out faster. On the side of the tire its stamped "for drag racing only" I never got hassled over it street driving them.
10 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,317
Likes: 20
From: Hurley, VA
You may not want to do it but I would recommend more gear and a 27" tire. My 1.51s were with 430 gears. Those 373s will give you a lot of wheel speed in 1st gear and a greater chance of bog. I recommend a 27 x 11.5 QTP and at least 410s. The difference in a best 1.71 and a 1.51 was switching from 410s and a older set of et streets (26 x 10.5 x 16) to 430s and the QTPs.
I really do need some help. I have been reviewing all of Summit Racing' Slicks and I can't seem to find what would be best for me. The sizes are so funky!
I have a 15X8 rim, 3.73 Rear end gear, Stick car. Can someone who has already tackled this headache assist? I can't even find a filter for "stiff wall".
I have a 15X8 rim, 3.73 Rear end gear, Stick car. Can someone who has already tackled this headache assist? I can't even find a filter for "stiff wall".
cuz they break down each tire, compound, tread & sidewall width, tire height, recommended rim size for each tire.
I would recommend running a 28x10.5 stiff wall.... However your gear is whats killing you. You don't have enough gear for 28s or 26s imo. Swap gears out, add some 28 stiff walls and go to town.
Btw, you don't want to cross the traps in 3rd, you want to be in 4th.
Btw, you don't want to cross the traps in 3rd, you want to be in 4th.
Firstly, why 3:73's? THat is way not enough gear for a stick car and 460hp. My car makes 525rw and I run 4:56's with a 28" tire.
You want to be crossing the finish line at the top of 4th gear, not just barely shifting forth. You want to balance your tire height with your gear ratio to give you max rpm in the top of 4th at the line, otherwise you are not optimizing your power. What's the point of having 4 forward (non OD) gears if you are really only using 3?
When I had 395hp I ran 4:11's and a 26" tire for a best of 11.32 @ 122. With 450HP it was the same tire and gearing for a 11.1 @ 125 (only ran it once) Just as a slight reference.
What RPM are you crossing the finish line at in 4th?
You are trying to decide stiff sidewall or not but it looks to me like you have not even sorted out your gearing.
Not trying to be a dick, but you are putting the cart in front of the horse a bit.
As for the stiff sidewall, with M/T (which is my recomndation) just look for the S at the end of the product code. I run the 3055S which is the 28x10-15 stiff sidewall. The 3055 is the same tire with a standard sidewall. Just look for the S at the end of the product code.
You want to be crossing the finish line at the top of 4th gear, not just barely shifting forth. You want to balance your tire height with your gear ratio to give you max rpm in the top of 4th at the line, otherwise you are not optimizing your power. What's the point of having 4 forward (non OD) gears if you are really only using 3?
When I had 395hp I ran 4:11's and a 26" tire for a best of 11.32 @ 122. With 450HP it was the same tire and gearing for a 11.1 @ 125 (only ran it once) Just as a slight reference.
What RPM are you crossing the finish line at in 4th?
You are trying to decide stiff sidewall or not but it looks to me like you have not even sorted out your gearing.
Not trying to be a dick, but you are putting the cart in front of the horse a bit.
As for the stiff sidewall, with M/T (which is my recomndation) just look for the S at the end of the product code. I run the 3055S which is the 28x10-15 stiff sidewall. The 3055 is the same tire with a standard sidewall. Just look for the S at the end of the product code.
