studderin

iTrader: (28)

Looking for pics of how some race setups have the front afcos mounted, mostly is is possible to invert them? And now looking don't see that done?

I had strange SA front shock, mounted stock bolt in style. And putting on a set of Afco DA form madman. The upper mount I have the afco mount kit, with the big washed and the spaced dual tabs mount for the top rod end. I know how that gose, I'm just going to tack weld it so it can't turn. The lower has the stock type T bolt mount.
like here https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...de-please.html
My lower Aarms are racecrafts with the flat bracket for the horizontal T bolt to mount, and it has a swaybar tab. I'm going to cut all that braket junk off, and go o 2 vertical tabs for the rod end (removed the Tbolt, with the clip) and weld on a little tab for my travel limiters.
I would like to mount them inverted But looks like the big afco **** is going to be close to hitting the upper A arm?


The car is apart so I can't mock the lower up to cycle right now. I know have some room on the lower Aarm were I weld the tabs later for the angle of the shock. And I've seen some lower A arms with dual vertical tabs with 2 mount positions. What is the design setup with that? Anyone running it, why would you want the adjustment there?
I dont think that is really going to make a big change at the top of the shock, with the **** that close so close to the top pivot. Anyone move the upper mount in more?


Not going to work on the car for a few days with the holiday stuff.

Might be something easy like a thinner, wheel type ****? Didn't even think of this before but can the know face in?

BIGsmokey10

iTrader: (3)

I know I can invert mine, and it's a possibility that I still may... I honestly can't remember the advantage of inverting them, still learning.... I'm running a full race MWC chromoly front end kit... There's a guy on here that has a six speed that runs low 9's with a ls1 n2o combo that runs MWC front end that has his front shocks inverted.. there's pics of it on MWC website.

so your uppers are the round deal with the spacers and the bracket that comes in a plastic baggy deal? your lowers are a t bracket? Can you possibly post a picture of your lower control arm? I'm bad trying to interpret things lol

Here's a picture of mine how it attaches on the bottom, simply invert it and it's good to go

http://www.midwestchassis.com/f-body...uspension.html

bowtieboySS427

iTrader: (23)

The advantage is having less unsprung weight. Basically the heavy, body end of the shock will be part of the transferable weight of the chassis because it is on top of the spring instead of under the spring.

03supercobra

iTrader: (38)

Not sure about clearance with inverting, but here is a shot of mine with the T-boot bracket removed and travel limiter tab.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

thanks guys,



ya check it out, not sure if the **** will hit. And facing it inside of out

John Deere racer

iTrader: (13)

Ull love these afcos

John02SS

iTrader: (47)

Would like to see upper mounts. Everyone just welding the afco bracket? Anyone run the race craft upper mount?

07bluelbz

iTrader: (1)

Madman was telling me I will need a torrington bearing kit in the front of mine when I do the Afcos or Strange.It is all new to me so sorry if that is a dumb statement. He is local to me and will be helping me set it all up.

red01camaroz28

iTrader: (2)

Here's some pictures on my car for the front Madman Afco's.

John02SS

iTrader: (47)

You just weld the mount on the top to the stock upper control arm mount?

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

I know that some people weld the big washers to the upper shock mounts instead of bolting them on.
But what about the u shape bracket that the shock mounts to, do you weld it to the big washer or just bolt it on?
Thanks

studderin

iTrader: (28)

thats up to you, you dont have to weld the mount together, its not going to go anywere. I htink afco says to put a tac on it. You just dont want the mount to turn, so the shock get damaged form it binding, in the new upper mount. That comes with the shocks, big washer to spread the load out, and the top clevis mount. you can see pic and DL the dirctions on afcos site if you dont have the shocks that came with it. I got all that with the bearing kit form madman. GMHT also did a install on them with some nice pics and everything.

I was looking if anyone had pic of them inverted. I bought a set of the shock mount tabs racecraft makes for there race style lower Aarms. I'll keep this updated when I get they welded on and if there is **** room the invert mount the shock.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

What came with the bearing kit?
I saw the article on GMHT. I saw where they welded the round mounting plates to the stock upper strut mount, but I can't tell if they welded the u bracket mount to the round mounting plate.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

There is no welding required at all on the Afco upper mounts

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

I knew it was a bolt in kit, but I like the idea of putting alittle tack welds on it.
I'll see this weekend, once I tear into it.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

It was a piece of cake!
Think I'll spot weld the round mounting plates, and bolt the
U shape shock mounts.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

What and how much have you guys gone for saving weighs. When you look at a stock shock tower and all the afco hardware there is 3/4 maybe 1inch thick soil metalover the shock, its nuts. There is 3 or 4 layer of metal on the shock tower, the main tower tub, I think a top cap layer, then that top brace. I know, and planning on removing that brace, I remeber a few years ago talking to eric at MWC in the lanes sad it was a few pounds. And see his really nice shop builds been doing it. I think there is a hole under that to get the the shock (stock style) stud.
And the hardware upper afco mount I think is overkill, you can get that on a diet. After the rod end clevis has the big plate washer to spread the weight out on the upper A arm mount/plate.


But I dont see a reason to have the thick spacer washers or the top washer, or even keep the center bolt and nut. I'm not sure about not using the big plate washer? If you can just weld clevis to the A arm mount/plate. Well keep it bolted to weld it centered, then remove the center bolt and top washers stuff.
basically make the stock mount into the racecraft style.

http://www.racecraft.com/index.php?m...roducts_id=361

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

The fat spacer and washers are required to keep the clevis centered on the control arm mount. If you are just going to weld the clevis to the UCA mount then you could get rid of them... we have done that here already with other brands of shocks that didn't include the oem stud upper type mounting.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Yeah, get rid of the spacer, top washer, bolt and nut.
Then it would be a weld in kit.
I tack weld my top and bottom washers, don't know why.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

ya thanks eric. I saw that later on some car builds, the new site looks good.


I just hate stupid, bracket to bracket, spacers.. ect. I like it simple to work on.