Whats up guys!

I am trying to figure out what I should do next. I have about $350 and trying to save some more. My main objective is better ET's, 60', etc at the track. My mods are in my sig, with the addition of poly motor mounts that I just picked up. I run Hoosier drag radials and remove the front sway bar when I race. Also just so its not mentioned a different rear axle is already in the works.

My first thought was competition engineering shocks for the rear since the car does not seem to launch as hard and my 60' did not improve much ( .02 ) after the cam swap. I was also thinking about a shift kit, but not sure if it's worth the money.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jason

 

Did you run that time at Milan?

 

Yes I did.

 

Coilovers.

 

Coil overs for the front or instead of the CE shocks? If it is for the front do they make a big difference?

 

What do you 60' now?

 

My best ET pass the 60' was 1.74

 

In your sig I don't see LCA relocation brackets, do you have them? If not, you might check them out. IMO they plant the tires better. I've run 1.81 60' and the relo brackets are my only aftermarket suspension mod at the moment. Your 1.74 60' looks pretty good to me but I know that I car thats really working will go alot lower.

 

Do your front coilovers before you do rear shocks. That will work wonders for your 60'.

 

I do not have relocation brackets. When I was looking into them it seemed like they were most effective if the car was lowered which mine is not, but for the minimal price I will give them a shot.

I will have to look into front coilovers as I know they are pricey.

What kind of 60' should I be running?

 

What size back tires do you have?

 

When I was searching for info on the relocation brackets almost everyone including UMI and BMR said they work on stock height cars too. I'm at stock height and they for sure help my car hook, with the lcas in either of the two lower holes I spin much less in the lower gears. As you lower the aft control arm mounting point traction improves but the rear suspension gets less compliant. Just my experience.

 

Best suggestion... Give us a call and we can go over all the options for you. There is a known combination of parts that make these cars work and some parts work better than others, sometimes it just comes down to "you get what you pay for", but there is also a fine line of overkill as well.

We here at MWC have several options on parts, the guaranteed lowest prices, along with the street and track experience to help you with install and tuning. There's a reason why the fastest stock suspension f-body cars are using MWC components!

 

do you have an under drive pulley, a lot of guys say they don't work but mine was worth .15

 

Guppymech - thanks for the info I will most likely buy a set.

Ssvert99 - I will give you a call, it make take a little while due to my hectic schedule, but hopefully within a week.

I do have an UD pulley and my Hoosier drag radials are 255/60/16. I did not spin on any of my 11 sec passes when I launched it just Did not seem to hook as hard. I will say I have a hard time bringing the rpms up without over powering the brakes and either creeping through the beams or spinning the tires. Anybody else experience this?

 

I'd have the converter restalled or go to a 9in if not already. 9in 36-3800 would pick up 60 and maybe .2. whats your trap rpm

 

I not 100% sure on trap RPM. The last run of the season I finally remembered to look and it was somewhere around 5500-6000 RPM, which does leave me room for a lower gear ratio. I will def have to confirm the rpm when I go back to the track.

 

don't be scared to take that thing little over 6, if your at 5500 you really need restall

 

1. try to flash the converter, your putting too many rpm on it. Bring it up just past idle(1200-1800rpm) and when the lights drop just stab the throttle.

2. buy the best suspension parts you can afford, that way once you get to a point your not held back by junk parts that you bought in the first place. Comp engineering shocks are one of those parts. I'de recommend at least a strange single adjustable. Idealy a double adjustable but I know how money can be.

3. If your already buying a rear end just make sure it has the "relocation brackets" built in... probably wont cost much more. Spend that money on your shocks or some good adjustable rod end control arms or panhard rod.

4. Try to get some weight out of the car! I know its not easy for a DD car but there is some little stuff that can come out! It all adds up!

5. Shift kit isn't going to help. Your on the verge of pukin' the stock tranny anyway. When it does go ahead and buy a good one from the vendors to the right(I'm an FLT fan)>>>

 

Thanks for all the replys.

I launch around 1800-2000rpms. I have an adjustable rodend panhard bar on the car, but my LCA are not adjustable. I had the LCA from my old G-body and just used them since hey are the same.

Also the car is not a DD, it's my summer/weekend warrior car. I already removed the A.I.R system, front sway bar, spare, and jack. I plan to remove the wipers/washers not that it weighs a ton but don't ever use them.