What to do next
TECH Addict
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Magee MS
remove the a/c, door bars, seats etc.
I'de take that $350 and buy some good shocks. I think you can get into some strange double adjustables for about $400ish? I could be wrong. Afco's would be ideal IMO but that's more than you have and there have been many cars go some low low numbers on them strange shocks
I'de take that $350 and buy some good shocks. I think you can get into some strange double adjustables for about $400ish? I could be wrong. Afco's would be ideal IMO but that's more than you have and there have been many cars go some low low numbers on them strange shocks
1. try to flash the converter, your putting too many rpm on it. Bring it up just past idle(1200-1800rpm) and when the lights drop just stab the throttle.
2. buy the best suspension parts you can afford, that way once you get to a point your not held back by junk parts that you bought in the first place. Comp engineering shocks are one of those parts. I'de recommend at least a strange single adjustable. Idealy a double adjustable but I know how money can be.
3. If your already buying a rear end just make sure it has the "relocation brackets" built in... probably wont cost much more. Spend that money on your shocks or some good adjustable rod end control arms or panhard rod.
4. Try to get some weight out of the car! I know its not easy for a DD car but there is some little stuff that can come out! It all adds up!
5. Shift kit isn't going to help. Your on the verge of pukin' the stock tranny anyway. When it does go ahead and buy a good one from the vendors to the right(I'm an FLT fan)>>>
2. buy the best suspension parts you can afford, that way once you get to a point your not held back by junk parts that you bought in the first place. Comp engineering shocks are one of those parts. I'de recommend at least a strange single adjustable. Idealy a double adjustable but I know how money can be.
3. If your already buying a rear end just make sure it has the "relocation brackets" built in... probably wont cost much more. Spend that money on your shocks or some good adjustable rod end control arms or panhard rod.
4. Try to get some weight out of the car! I know its not easy for a DD car but there is some little stuff that can come out! It all adds up!
5. Shift kit isn't going to help. Your on the verge of pukin' the stock tranny anyway. When it does go ahead and buy a good one from the vendors to the right(I'm an FLT fan)>>>
Biggest key is suspension and stall.
If it's a weekend car I'd look at what you can and can't live without and start pulling, cutting, removing weight.
Anything sub 3300 race weight will help the car go faster, stop easier and be easier on parts.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 40
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From: Warren, MI
I can live without a lot, but I do like having A/C especially when I am just cruising around with the kids in the car.
I thought about removing door bars and bumper supports, but there is a lot of negatives if you do drive the car on the streets. I also don't want to go to crazy just in case I ever have to sell it I would like to be able to put everything back so it's more marketable.
I definitely will be giving Midwest a call.
I thought about removing door bars and bumper supports, but there is a lot of negatives if you do drive the car on the streets. I also don't want to go to crazy just in case I ever have to sell it I would like to be able to put everything back so it's more marketable.
I definitely will be giving Midwest a call.
i'd leave the wipers and door bars till you get a roll bar, I took out the front bumper support and just left the plastic top bracket/ support on it and I had no sag issues, couldn't tell it was gone. I was 3500 street weight with me. you can take out the rear carpet and scrape 5 lbs of crap out. I had a blach pad on the bottom of the trunk that was a few lbs. Take a few hours and go throught studderin's thread winter upgrades bitch is on a diet, ALOT of useful and interesting ideas
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Warren, MI
Thanks guys for all the input and pointing me in the right direction. Will getting my converter stall changed from 3200 to 3800+ be that noticeable of a difference, especially since the cars seems to push through the brakes if I try to go any higher than 2000 rpm at the line? It makes sense that it would definitely hit the tires harder with the higher stall but are we talking over a .10 or under a .10 difference?
Also from what everyone is saying if money allows I should do the front coilovers before I do the rear shocks correct?
I am still going to give mid west a call to talk with them, too.
Also from what everyone is saying if money allows I should do the front coilovers before I do the rear shocks correct?
I am still going to give mid west a call to talk with them, too.
Last edited by Pewter Lightning; Jan 13, 2014 at 06:24 AM.
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Verdad Gallardo I'd say you could get your 60's in the 1.50's with a re stall.
Also, try just flashing the converter off the line. Don't bring up the RPM's
just stomp it. Seem to work best for me when I had a PI 3800 stall.
Also, try just flashing the converter off the line. Don't bring up the RPM's
just stomp it. Seem to work best for me when I had a PI 3800 stall.
I would do adjustable rear shocks before fronts on an automatic. It was a huge difference for me over stock shocks. I noticed more consistency in the 60' and bigger gains in the 330'.
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converter depends on what u got, if you have a true 3200 10in and go to a true 3800 9in it should be over .1. bringing the rpm up to 1800-2200 is best on my 8in converter if I launch at idle it goes slower. do a lot of research on shocks theirs some newer brands that are well priced, controlling the rear usually works more then the front.
The correct converter and good shocks are probably the best combination for the money spent on performance. The right converter tuneup is the lifeblood of a auto trans car no doubt, but once that torque is applied to the driveshaft then the shocks need to keep the suspension working in order to keep the tires planted.
Front or rear shocks first can be debated, but on an auto car I would say lean more toward the front so you can control the weight transfer. The auto trans won't shock the rear tire like a manual does, so weight transfer is much needed to get the car to pitch rotate and start the process.
Regardless of front or rear, shocks on both ends are really needed to make it right. We have had great success with the new Viking shocks, but the Strange shocks are top performers as well. If considering a double adjustable setup the Viking shocks are just too hard to beat with their 2 year warranty and 18 position valving. If someone is looking for the best shock with the lowest cost the Strange singles are definitely the route to go. As always MWC has the guaranteed lowest prices and the expert tech help to go with it!
Front or rear shocks first can be debated, but on an auto car I would say lean more toward the front so you can control the weight transfer. The auto trans won't shock the rear tire like a manual does, so weight transfer is much needed to get the car to pitch rotate and start the process.
Regardless of front or rear, shocks on both ends are really needed to make it right. We have had great success with the new Viking shocks, but the Strange shocks are top performers as well. If considering a double adjustable setup the Viking shocks are just too hard to beat with their 2 year warranty and 18 position valving. If someone is looking for the best shock with the lowest cost the Strange singles are definitely the route to go. As always MWC has the guaranteed lowest prices and the expert tech help to go with it!
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Warren, MI
Thank you guys for all your input. I called Precision Industries yesterday and they agreed that I would benefit from a higher stall. They suggested a restall to around 3600.
I am going to have to give this some thought on what to do first and try to get some more $$$$ together.
Thanks again!
I am going to have to give this some thought on what to do first and try to get some more $$$$ together.
Thanks again!