Bigger stall, or some suspension work.

 

remove the a/c, door bars, seats etc.

I'de take that $350 and buy some good shocks. I think you can get into some strange double adjustables for about $400ish? I could be wrong. Afco's would be ideal IMO but that's more than you have and there have been many cars go some low low numbers on them strange shocks

 

and don't forget about the forsale section here! you might not get the deal of the century on used parts but it is winter and lots of folks are upgrading over the winter months

 

All of this is good advice, looking into Viking shocks as well.

Biggest key is suspension and stall.

If it's a weekend car I'd look at what you can and can't live without and start pulling, cutting, removing weight.

Anything sub 3300 race weight will help the car go faster, stop easier and be easier on parts.

 

I can live without a lot, but I do like having A/C especially when I am just cruising around with the kids in the car.

I thought about removing door bars and bumper supports, but there is a lot of negatives if you do drive the car on the streets. I also don't want to go to crazy just in case I ever have to sell it I would like to be able to put everything back so it's more marketable.

I definitely will be giving Midwest a call.

 

Restall the converter to around 3800, call Eric and get you some Viking front shocks.

I really like a 15" rim and a MT DR 275/60.

 

i'd leave the wipers and door bars till you get a roll bar, I took out the front bumper support and just left the plastic top bracket/ support on it and I had no sag issues, couldn't tell it was gone. I was 3500 street weight with me. you can take out the rear carpet and scrape 5 lbs of crap out. I had a blach pad on the bottom of the trunk that was a few lbs. Take a few hours and go throught studderin's thread winter upgrades bitch is on a diet, ALOT of useful and interesting ideas

 

Thanks guys for all the input and pointing me in the right direction. Will getting my converter stall changed from 3200 to 3800+ be that noticeable of a difference, especially since the cars seems to push through the brakes if I try to go any higher than 2000 rpm at the line? It makes sense that it would definitely hit the tires harder with the higher stall but are we talking over a .10 or under a .10 difference?

Also from what everyone is saying if money allows I should do the front coilovers before I do the rear shocks correct?

I am still going to give mid west a call to talk with them, too.

 

I'd say you could get your 60's in the 1.50's with a re stall.
Also, try just flashing the converter off the line. Don't bring up the RPM's
just stomp it. Seem to work best for me when I had a PI 3800 stall.

 

I would do adjustable rear shocks before fronts on an automatic. It was a huge difference for me over stock shocks. I noticed more consistency in the 60' and bigger gains in the 330'.

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converter depends on what u got, if you have a true 3200 10in and go to a true 3800 9in it should be over .1. bringing the rpm up to 1800-2200 is best on my 8in converter if I launch at idle it goes slower. do a lot of research on shocks theirs some newer brands that are well priced, controlling the rear usually works more then the front.

 

The correct converter and good shocks are probably the best combination for the money spent on performance. The right converter tuneup is the lifeblood of a auto trans car no doubt, but once that torque is applied to the driveshaft then the shocks need to keep the suspension working in order to keep the tires planted.

Front or rear shocks first can be debated, but on an auto car I would say lean more toward the front so you can control the weight transfer. The auto trans won't shock the rear tire like a manual does, so weight transfer is much needed to get the car to pitch rotate and start the process.

Regardless of front or rear, shocks on both ends are really needed to make it right. We have had great success with the new Viking shocks, but the Strange shocks are top performers as well. If considering a double adjustable setup the Viking shocks are just too hard to beat with their 2 year warranty and 18 position valving. If someone is looking for the best shock with the lowest cost the Strange singles are definitely the route to go. As always MWC has the guaranteed lowest prices and the expert tech help to go with it!

 

Very well said!

 

Thank you guys for all your input. I called Precision Industries yesterday and they agreed that I would benefit from a higher stall. They suggested a restall to around 3600.

I am going to have to give this some thought on what to do first and try to get some more $$$$ together.

Thanks again!