Which would you do first?
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Which would you do first? Okay, so here's the deal. Taxes are coming up, and my wife gave me the OK to spend it all on car parts. (What?!?!) Car is a H/C/I with a 4k stall, runs mid 11s cutting 1.65 sixty's. I'd like to beef up the drive line. I have a 4L80E that I took apart and inspected, looks good so I could rebuild it and ditch the 4L60E. Or, I could get a new rear (10 bolt scares the crap out of me). Which one do y'all think should come first? Trans or rear? Car is street driven a lot, sees the track probably Once or twice a month on M/T radials.
To be honest, those are some decent 60' times,, I am surprised the stock rear is still together.
Last grudge night I went to at the track, there was a Stock camaro with a 6 speed, he put on slicks, sidestepped the clutch and boom,, Dont know exactly what happened in the carrier but something grenaded,,and the engine was stock, just had headers and an aftermarket exhaust.
You got the disease (modding) wich means you will probably continue to spend money on the car to make it faster, which means more power, which means you will definately need a rear end that can be counted on. My money would be on the rear end. All the HP in the world is worthless if you cant get it on the pavement..
Last grudge night I went to at the track, there was a Stock camaro with a 6 speed, he put on slicks, sidestepped the clutch and boom,, Dont know exactly what happened in the carrier but something grenaded,,and the engine was stock, just had headers and an aftermarket exhaust.
You got the disease (modding) wich means you will probably continue to spend money on the car to make it faster, which means more power, which means you will definately need a rear end that can be counted on. My money would be on the rear end. All the HP in the world is worthless if you cant get it on the pavement..
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TECH Apprentice
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I didn't use the radials for the last few months of race season. Dead hooking was an awesome feeling, but scared the crap out of me lol. Both will get done at some point. I'll probably do the rear first. Suspension is mostly stock, running a UMI tunnel mounted torque arm and LCA relocation brackets. New front shocks will be next, maybe a set of CE shocks for the rear. I'll probably save for a set of stranges for the rear to match the fronts.
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TECH Apprentice
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Pretty unanimous. I was leaning towards the rear anyway, guess this settles it! Since I've got everyones attention, I did some research but couldn't find what was necessary for the swap. I already have a tunnel mounted adj. torque arm, but any other parts I'll need? Besides incidentals like gear oil and obvious stuff you buy at the local auto parts store.
I would do the rear all day. Even though 4L60's aren't the greatest transmissions, the rear is on borrow time even with stock power. I was lucky enough to do a couple 1.6 60's on my 10 Bolt in an M6 with Bolt-On's, but that was God's gift from heaven lol. At your power level and how much you're going to be tracking the car a strong rear end is a must.
+1 for the rear. Keep in mind, since you do street drive it, a locker may be in your best interest. However I hated it on the street. (Moser 9" /35 Spline axles/Detroit Locker/3.89 gear) If you did any type of canyon cruises with a group/club you probably wont anymore. Any type of acceleration, no matter how slight, in a corner will cause the locker to lock and it will give you an uneasy jerk feeling. This has been my experience, maybe someone could give you advice on a better setup with more street etiquette.
And honestly I would try to pick one up used. That's what I did, save yourself the hassle of waiting.
Good Luck
On The Tree
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I have a spool and it is a pain in the *** to park without dragging the tires, but I've gotten use to it. Just a peace of mind thing when at the track honestly, but depending on how much street driving you do I would look into true trac...
Just my 2 cents
Just my 2 cents
I have a spool on my "street car" and a true trac in my dd. Both of them are 9". My wife drives the DD occasionally so it's nice to still have traction control. My vote is for the 9". I'd try and find a used one with the gear set you want with atleast 1/2" studs.
