Wheelieeeee
Regardless. Yes it's more of a challenge for a manual car to get it to hook, but it can be done.
The OP can also try running some stiff side wall MT ET Drags. Get some adjustable drag shocks up front at the least, and run them full loose. Adj. rear shocks will also help as well as a drag bar.GL
The OP can also try running some stiff side wall MT ET Drags. Get some adjustable drag shocks up front at the least, and run them full loose. Adj. rear shocks will also help as well as a drag bar.GL Last edited by BOLO; Feb 13, 2014 at 02:05 PM.
I am not calling you a liar by any means, I am just really interested in this and would like to know more about it.
Also, I cannot believe your stock clutch lasted so long
I don't think they noticed that its an M6 car. There MIGHT be some secrets out there as to making a radial tire work on a manual car but I've never heard anything about em!
You REALLY don't want it to wheelie. However it may look cool to the spectators everybody else knows its from lack of knowledge of how to get the car down the track, or simply making to big of adjustments at once. Ask my buddy who wheelied his h/c/I/nitrous car hard a few months back. Ruined his headers and oil pan. Its not fun pulling the motor just to replace an oilpan.
You REALLY don't want it to wheelie. However it may look cool to the spectators everybody else knows its from lack of knowledge of how to get the car down the track, or simply making to big of adjustments at once. Ask my buddy who wheelied his h/c/I/nitrous car hard a few months back. Ruined his headers and oil pan. Its not fun pulling the motor just to replace an oilpan.
And fast stick cars most always prefer bias tires over radials.
I thoroughly understand that doing a wheelie is bad. but im 20 yrs old and I WANT A WHEELIE! having a 26" will give me more leverage off the line because of the higher ratio so will the 26" help at all ? or does a 28" hook that much better? I'll go with the bias ply.I already ordered the rear with 4.11s so ****. also forgot to mention the engne is forged eagle crank,k1 h-beam, wiseco-3.2cc. It does make sens ethat bais ply would be better to absord the shock off the line
I thoroughly understand that doing a wheelie is bad. but im 20 yrs old and I WANT A WHEELIE! having a 26" will give me more leverage off the line because of the higher ratio so will the 26" help at all ? or does a 28" hook that much better? I'll go with the bias ply.I already ordered the rear with 4.11s so ****. also forgot to mention the engne is forged eagle crank,k1 h-beam, wiseco-3.2cc. It does make sens ethat bais ply would be better to absord the shock off the line
450plus rwhp I would assume by ur mods
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not what I meant in any means. I'm not a know it all by any means. Where in the hell did anything in my post say anything that would cause you to think that I'm talking like I know everything? This guy is simply asking about doing a wheelie with a head/cam car on a 275 drag radial. I'm simply stating that its not going to be easy and probably damn near impossible with his power level.
This guy is young and simply wants to do wheelies. I'de advise him not to but if he does I think he should bolt on a set of 28x10.5S slicks and loosen the front shocks up all the way and let it eat. I'm pretty sure most all members of this forum would agree with that.
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not what I meant in any means. I'm not a know it all by any means. Where in the hell did anything in my post say anything that would cause you to think that I'm talking like I know everything? This guy is simply asking about doing a wheelie with a head/cam car on a 275 drag radial. I'm simply stating that its not going to be easy and probably damn near impossible with his power level.
This guy is young and simply wants to do wheelies. I'de advise him not to but if he does I think he should bolt on a set of 28x10.5S slicks and loosen the front shocks up all the way and let it eat. I'm pretty sure most all members of this forum would agree with that.
This guy is young and simply wants to do wheelies. I'de advise him not to but if he does I think he should bolt on a set of 28x10.5S slicks and loosen the front shocks up all the way and let it eat. I'm pretty sure most all members of this forum would agree with that.
He said: "You REALLY don't want it to wheelie. However it may look cool to the spectators everybody else knows its from lack of knowledge of how to get the car down the track, or simply making to big of adjustments at once."
Opinions, or facts? "everybody knows"? Didn't see "IMHO", should have read "all keyboard jockeys think wheelies are wrong", out in the real world people actually racing and going fast with NA cars know it's part of it. You try to not let it unload on the wheelie bars, but otherwise live with them. Will the wheels up 6" run quicker than up 4'? Yep, maybe 2 hundredths. When you have over 100 cars running, and many are big engine, big tire stick cars, the starting line often changes all weekend. I learned the hard way to not tie the front end down for 6" up in the morning qualifying sessions. You can end up blowing the tires off in the afternoon heat after some stick shift 427" Car makes two bald spots when he drops the clutch. You need to run the car loose enough to hook in any conditions.
Opinions, or facts? "everybody knows"? Didn't see "IMHO", should have read "all keyboard jockeys think wheelies are wrong", out in the real world people actually racing and going fast with NA cars know it's part of it. You try to not let it unload on the wheelie bars, but otherwise live with them. Will the wheels up 6" run quicker than up 4'? Yep, maybe 2 hundredths. When you have over 100 cars running, and many are big engine, big tire stick cars, the starting line often changes all weekend. I learned the hard way to not tie the front end down for 6" up in the morning qualifying sessions. You can end up blowing the tires off in the afternoon heat after some stick shift 427" Car makes two bald spots when he drops the clutch. You need to run the car loose enough to hook in any conditions.
Last edited by Ed Wright; Feb 14, 2014 at 09:29 AM.
Run a 26inch tire if you don't want to hurt your gear with the 28s
I think you have enough HP to use the 28s with 4.11
If u run a 26 make sure. It's not a DR
Good luck and have fun
I think you have enough HP to use the 28s with 4.11
If u run a 26 make sure. It's not a DR
Good luck and have fun
I can not imagine how funny cars have any relevence here. They slip the clutch to calm them down, they tend to smoke the tires otherwise. If you went to enough NHRA races (from what I see posted here, I'm thinking not) you would see funny cars stand up big time if the starting line is tighter than expected. Bad thing is, if they miss that they tend to blow over if the driver does not lift. It is rare to see a guy drive out of that. Not all of them can. They run enough MPH (like 100 MPH in about 60'!) they catch enough air it gets bad.
Some goof ***** want to compare an NHRA SS car to a "275" car, which does not stand up a lot. The guy at ATI I talk to told me, at the PRI Show a couple of years ago, if I put one of their converters in my car, I would slow down a good bit. If they put my converter in their "275" or "10.5" car, they would just blow the tires off. Those "275" guys, the "10.5" guys, and NHRA Comp Eliminator cars use what is called a "soft" converter. Converters in cars like mine hit very hard. It's quicker, but a tad harder to hook sometimes on marginal starting lines.
They sell soft converters to et bracket racers also, since they don't often have the level of track prep we have at NHRA & IHRA points races & national events. They just need them to hook the same everytime.
We are talking apples & oranges. I don't know if all brands have different converters, most everybody I know uses ATI. 18 of the last 20 NHRA SS world champ cars used ATI converters. I have tested others, they have not been as fast in mine either. Show me an SS car like mine that keeps all four wheels on the ground, and I will show you a slow one.
Some goof ***** want to compare an NHRA SS car to a "275" car, which does not stand up a lot. The guy at ATI I talk to told me, at the PRI Show a couple of years ago, if I put one of their converters in my car, I would slow down a good bit. If they put my converter in their "275" or "10.5" car, they would just blow the tires off. Those "275" guys, the "10.5" guys, and NHRA Comp Eliminator cars use what is called a "soft" converter. Converters in cars like mine hit very hard. It's quicker, but a tad harder to hook sometimes on marginal starting lines.
They sell soft converters to et bracket racers also, since they don't often have the level of track prep we have at NHRA & IHRA points races & national events. They just need them to hook the same everytime.
We are talking apples & oranges. I don't know if all brands have different converters, most everybody I know uses ATI. 18 of the last 20 NHRA SS world champ cars used ATI converters. I have tested others, they have not been as fast in mine either. Show me an SS car like mine that keeps all four wheels on the ground, and I will show you a slow one.
Nathanial, you will find taller makes more difference in hooking it than wider.
A bias tire is a smart move. MTs are fast as well as Hoosier. Have not seen quite as many guys running Goodyears lately. May change next year. Get a real slick, not an "et street" type of deal. You want wheels on the wide side of reccomded wheels listed in the catalog. If it shows 8 to 10, get 10s.
A bias tire is a smart move. MTs are fast as well as Hoosier. Have not seen quite as many guys running Goodyears lately. May change next year. Get a real slick, not an "et street" type of deal. You want wheels on the wide side of reccomded wheels listed in the catalog. If it shows 8 to 10, get 10s.
