01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I see where you're coming from. Most people here truly want to help. However, sometimes advice gets sidetracked. In all my experience with these cars, I can tell you modding doesn't always make sense. Meaning what you think will happen doesn't always happen. Sometimes a clear, concise, and logical explanation doesn't always exist. Some things just are what they are. You want something solid, but it's not always that cut and dry.

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

believe me I know modding doesn't always make sense...especially when you start talking about tuning, I've almost put my head through a wall a couple of times trying to figure out why my car would mysteriously pull timing at WOT for no reason.

From my experience at least, most times things aren't cut and dry and it is the little details that make or break a setup. It's why you got some guys with full bolt ons that can't make it out of the 13's while others are laughing in the 11's

I've never been a guy to just throw parts at a car and hope it goes fast, and when it doesn't, throw more money at it. I research everything and make sure I try and have every part work with each other.

I've talked to a few sponsors about recommendations given what I believe my end setup/goals to be. This thread wasn't so much about advice as it was more about trying to see why I see so many guys saying they're not seeing a difference with gearing when they have a stall (except for the fact that it drives tighter on the street with a higher gear when stalled)

As I am sure you have seen on here, there are a million guys that claim "I dropped 1.5 seconds getting SLP LT headers or gained xx horsepower" meanwhile they forgot to mention they also changed the Y pipe, deleted the cats, dropped 500lbs, raced at 5000 less DA than previous, etc, etc. I'm sure if you have been on any forum for awhile you know exactly what I am talking about.

shortdog

iTrader: (1)

It makes minimal difference, but it also depends on the setup of the vehicle. From 3.23-3.73, I gained maybe a tenth, but that was when it was a bolt-on, small cammed car.
On a nice h/c combo, the results "may" be different. Every car don't react the same.
Practically what I said from your first question.

Some of the N/A guys use taller tires due to no traction from a low gear (numerically higher) AND putting out power. Nitrous cars are a tad different.

Will this be a h/c car? If so, just keep the 4.10s. Probably won't be much of a difference going down to a 3.73.. Go with 3.55s if you plan on spraying the car in the future.

I noticed your screen name from camarov6.com.. I'm on that site and was a V6 guy also.

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

Yup- it's been real dead over there lately. Still lots of good info, but most of the old timers or top guys are gone unfortunately.

Looking to go with just a Cam on this car- the goal is to be a low 11second car - tickle right below the area that you are obligated to have a Cage in the car.

I'd love to make it faster, but it's also a street car and it's damn impossible to get insurance on a caged/roll bar car over here. So if I aim for faster I either need to strictly drive on the street and never race at the track, or only race at the track and never drive it on the street

It should be relatively easy to make it a low 11 second car, especially since I'll be bringing over all the suspension / rear end etc from the v6 car.

This car will never see nitrous- I like the N/A setups.

This is where I wanted this conversation to go because the taller tire itself works against going with that numerically higher gear. I've often wondered if some guys have tossed on a bigger tire as a quick fix to the traction issues rather than trying to combat the new problem through other means.

There is no doubt a number of those guys did in fact need a bigger tire, and I say that not to put down any of the people in the threads I've read, but I've just seen a lot of guys in the past try and cut corners and just throw parts at cars.

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

and I wouldn't call 1/10th minimal lol- I mean, I don't race in a class, but don't the class guys practically give up their first born child for a few hundreths?

I spent hours cutting weight on the car just to pull a tenth from my time slips lol

shortdog

iTrader: (1)

POWER, mostly single digit cars. Even with suspension work, a small 26" tire wont cut it in most cases.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

^^Ive seen a ton of 10 and 11 second cars running 27+ tires. Nobody around here goes very fast with a 26. Why? I dunno, never asked em. They may have jumped ship on the smaller tire because it was the quickest and easiest thing to do.

LETZRIDE

iTrader: (6)

ya, those are the guys I'm referring to. I almost wonder if some of those guys used a stiffwall radial, didnt get the results they wanted and just jumped up tire sizes rather than trying a soft wall 26" tire

Or go from not hooking on a nitto tire, and feeling like the only solution is to go with something much bigger

NW Iowa WS6

iTrader: (9)

I've noticed at my local track which is known for its less than stellar traction especially on Friday night street car minimal prep events almost every car in the 10-12's are 28" with a few 29-30" and the few guys who get it done on a 26" are usually short wheelbase fox bodies with hella weight transfer. It's a lot cheaper to buy a 28"+ than spend the money on a great suspension setup in most cases.

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

Runs 13s. Gotcha.