Gears + stall
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I see where you're coming from. Most people here truly want to help. However, sometimes advice gets sidetracked. In all my experience with these cars, I can tell you modding doesn't always make sense. Meaning what you think will happen doesn't always happen. Sometimes a clear, concise, and logical explanation doesn't always exist. Some things just are what they are. You want something solid, but it's not always that cut and dry.
I see where you're coming from. Most people here truly want to help. However, sometimes advice gets sidetracked. In all my experience with these cars, I can tell you modding doesn't always make sense. Meaning what you think will happen doesn't always happen. Sometimes a clear, concise, and logical explanation doesn't always exist. Some things just are what they are. You want something solid, but it's not always that cut and dry.
From my experience at least, most times things aren't cut and dry and it is the little details that make or break a setup. It's why you got some guys with full bolt ons that can't make it out of the 13's while others are laughing in the 11's
I've never been a guy to just throw parts at a car and hope it goes fast, and when it doesn't, throw more money at it. I research everything and make sure I try and have every part work with each other.
I've talked to a few sponsors about recommendations given what I believe my end setup/goals to be. This thread wasn't so much about advice as it was more about trying to see why I see so many guys saying they're not seeing a difference with gearing when they have a stall (except for the fact that it drives tighter on the street with a higher gear when stalled)
As I am sure you have seen on here, there are a million guys that claim "I dropped 1.5 seconds getting SLP LT headers or gained xx horsepower" meanwhile they forgot to mention they also changed the Y pipe, deleted the cats, dropped 500lbs, raced at 5000 less DA than previous, etc, etc. I'm sure if you have been on any forum for awhile you know exactly what I am talking about.
On a nice h/c combo, the results "may" be different. Every car don't react the same.
if I run a car with 3.42 gears and 4000 stall I get that the shift extension will be at say 5000 rpm so I will always be making the power the car should in that range, but if I ran a 4.10 gear with that 4000 stall should I not be considerably quicker? I mean the gear is shorter letting the car spin up much easier and through the gears.
Theoretically I should climb to 6000rpm / shift point much faster because the gear is shorter
Theoretically I should climb to 6000rpm / shift point much faster because the gear is shorter
Is what I am reading a direct result of guys going from numerically low gears to high gears but sticking a taller tire on the car thereby nullifying the gear change essentially?
I'm asking about this here because I am building my LS1 street / strip car and my current 8.8 has 4.10 gears in it (from my 3800) but I have 3.73's that I will be putting in this summer. However, if there truly is no difference when running a 4000 stall (which is what I plan on grabbing from Yank- although the possibility of a 3600 is still lingering) then why should I kill my top end so much, I should just go with a 3.55 instead.
The concept just doesn't make sense to me
The concept just doesn't make sense to me
I noticed your screen name from camarov6.com.. I'm on that site and was a V6 guy also.
Will this be a h/c car? If so, just keep the 4.10s. Probably won't be much of a difference going down to a 3.73.. Go with 3.55s if you plan on spraying the car in the future.
I'd love to make it faster, but it's also a street car and it's damn impossible to get insurance on a caged/roll bar car over here. So if I aim for faster I either need to strictly drive on the street and never race at the track, or only race at the track and never drive it on the street
It should be relatively easy to make it a low 11 second car, especially since I'll be bringing over all the suspension / rear end etc from the v6 car.
This car will never see nitrous- I like the N/A setups.
Some of the N/A guys use taller tires due to no traction from a low gear (numerically higher) AND putting out power. Nitrous cars are a tad different.
There is no doubt a number of those guys did in fact need a bigger tire, and I say that not to put down any of the people in the threads I've read, but I've just seen a lot of guys in the past try and cut corners and just throw parts at cars.
and I wouldn't call 1/10th minimal lol- I mean, I don't race in a class, but don't the class guys practically give up their first born child for a few hundreths?
I spent hours cutting weight on the car just to pull a tenth from my time slips lol
I spent hours cutting weight on the car just to pull a tenth from my time slips lol
This is where I wanted this conversation to go because the taller tire itself works against going with that numerically higher gear. I've often wondered if some guys have tossed on a bigger tire as a quick fix to the traction issues rather than trying to combat the new problem through other means.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
^^Ive seen a ton of 10 and 11 second cars running 27+ tires. Nobody around here goes very fast with a 26. Why? I dunno, never asked em. They may have jumped ship on the smaller tire because it was the quickest and easiest thing to do.
Or go from not hooking on a nitto tire, and feeling like the only solution is to go with something much bigger
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I've noticed at my local track which is known for its less than stellar traction especially on Friday night street car minimal prep events almost every car in the 10-12's are 28" with a few 29-30" and the few guys who get it done on a 26" are usually short wheelbase fox bodies with hella weight transfer. It's a lot cheaper to buy a 28"+ than spend the money on a great suspension setup in most cases.
