Which Class to Race in?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,046
Likes: 2
From: Massachusetts
Which Class to Race in? Musclepalooza is coming up May 25th. It's a street legal American muscle cars only event. They group the class' by one second intervals. I'm trying to decide if I want to run high 10's in the 10 second class or low to borderline 11's in the 11 second class. Help me weigh out the pro's and con's.
with a best of 10.87 and your in Mass if that pb pass happened in good DA may 25 if it ends up warm & muggy you could be fighting to get out of the 11's ...
I am not being negative on your car or skill ( I have watched your threads) just saying weather could throw you a curve if trying to overachieve vs underachieve.
underpromise & overdeliver
I am not being negative on your car or skill ( I have watched your threads) just saying weather could throw you a curve if trying to overachieve vs underachieve.
underpromise & overdeliver
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,046
Likes: 2
From: Massachusetts
Anything is possible but I can tell you that last year I had a new PB in early June so weather doesn't start to effect my car until till end of June early July. The DA for the 10.87 was near 1000.
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Depends what your comfortable with. Can you hold numbers and drop at the end well? If not I would run it all out. No matter what around here your going to have to kill the tree to be competive. Go with what you know best. Sometimes the car is only a quarter of the problem, Driver is the rest haha
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,046
Likes: 2
From: Massachusetts
Yeah, I understand the basics and have run before but I've always just been matched up with someone from the 11 second class. I've never had the option of being the fastest or slowest car in the class so I wanted to discuss pro's con's of each. Is it better to be chased or to chase?
You can always dump .1 or .05 but you can never make it up if you need to. What I mean is if you do not have a perfect launch or something else is not quite perfect and your down some on your et you are in trouble where as if you have .05 in the bank you can make it up. You do not need to beat anyone by a car length just 1 inch. That is what the brake pedal is for. Go on youtube and search( BE 00 Take 00 ) and watch some of the guys play the game.
If you are running a high 10 second car in a 10.0 index class be prepared to lose 1st round. You'll have a much better shot to slow the car down a little. You shouldn't count on someone else going red in order to win the round.
If it's not an index class and is just a dial in bracket race I would base it on the weather. If your normally runs low 11s in the heat then run the 11 second class.
If it's not an index class and is just a dial in bracket race I would base it on the weather. If your normally runs low 11s in the heat then run the 11 second class.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,046
Likes: 2
From: Massachusetts
If you are running a high 10 second car in a 10.0 index class be prepared to lose 1st round. You'll have a much better shot to slow the car down a little. You shouldn't count on someone else going red in order to win the round.
If it's not an index class and is just a dial in bracket race I would base it on the weather. If your normally runs low 11s in the heat then run the 11 second class.
If it's not an index class and is just a dial in bracket race I would base it on the weather. If your normally runs low 11s in the heat then run the 11 second class.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Douglassville, PA
Enter the slower class. You need to be able to make your dial.
I like to have the slower car and use it to my advantage. Slower car has less hp so normally hooks better. Going out first gives me a clean light. Its easier to scrub ET with a slower car. Set your side mirrors out a bit so you can see your opponent coming up on you. With the mirrors the race is "in front" of you.
I noramlly set my car for a safe .020 light, hold .05 to 1.2 and start backing into my opponent at the 1000' marker. Tap the brakes adjust look tap adjust look tap adjust etc. I'm looking to toke .019 to .010 mov at the end. If its clear I'm not gettiing to the stripe first I dump (either the opponent is breaking out or I cut a bad light).
Good luck and have fun.
I like to have the slower car and use it to my advantage. Slower car has less hp so normally hooks better. Going out first gives me a clean light. Its easier to scrub ET with a slower car. Set your side mirrors out a bit so you can see your opponent coming up on you. With the mirrors the race is "in front" of you.
I noramlly set my car for a safe .020 light, hold .05 to 1.2 and start backing into my opponent at the 1000' marker. Tap the brakes adjust look tap adjust look tap adjust etc. I'm looking to toke .019 to .010 mov at the end. If its clear I'm not gettiing to the stripe first I dump (either the opponent is breaking out or I cut a bad light).
Good luck and have fun.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Douglassville, PA
Deep stage and drop launch rpm by 200. Your not sleeping your cutting good lights on the last yellow. The car doesn't react fast enought. Deep will reduce RT by about .100 but will slow your ET by the same. Dial accordinly Changes in 100 launch RPM is about .010 on the tree. Higher the launch rpm the quicker the car will come out and the lower the RT.
Last edited by kazman; May 14, 2014 at 04:28 PM. Reason: added