Proper burnout with A4
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Teching In
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 9
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Proper burnout with A4 I have 2001 Z-A4, SY3500 and 3.73 gears. When at the dragsrip what is the proper way to heat the tires with no damage to the trans or converter? (I have No line lock the trans is otherwise stock. Do I heat the tires and let them hook before I get out of the gas or ease off the gas before hooking the tires in the burnout box?
it really depends on the tires, you really should get a linelock to cut down wear on the rear brakes...my nittos took forever to heat up whereas my hoosiers take a very small burnout to get them sticky, I usually just throw it in 2, get them spinnin into 2nd gear & count off X amount of seconds to myself depending on the conditions & how ive been hooking.
make sure car is in D (3rd), plant the rear tires in the water box, do a little spin to get some water on them, then pull up a little (please dont do a burnout in the water box, i hate that), plant your foot on the brake and give it some gas, not too slow, but dont just mash it either, while looking in your side mirror, wait till you see at least a little smoke, then (i think i am explaining this right, kinda hard when I'm not in the process of) as you come off the gas let the brake out slightly so you dont just stop completely and then pull up, but dont do a john force, pass the staging lights. Does that make since??? Kind of hard to explain this in writing. But like stated already, how long to do the burnout with depend on the tires you are running. Like I said, just watch in your side mirror (dont open your door and look back at the tires while you are burning out 
), it also helps if you have someone go up with you to line you up in the water box and let you know when you smokem'd good. I just watch my husband most of the time. Hope this helps. As far as worrying about the trans, I wouldn't really, just the rear end. Make sure you aren't doing any one-wheel burnouts 
-moving to drag racing
), it also helps if you have someone go up with you to line you up in the water box and let you know when you smokem'd good. I just watch my husband most of the time. Hope this helps. As far as worrying about the trans, I wouldn't really, just the rear end. Make sure you aren't doing any one-wheel burnouts -moving to drag racing
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,065
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From: Atlanta, GA
get a line lock. trust me. The trans temps will get out hand.
I hold 1st gear till redline, then bump it once to 2nd and then hold it at like 4000rpm's (nitto's) to get them toasty. then let off the brakes.
with a line lock you are using the force of the rear brakes against the trans causing ENERGY to be dissipated, namely in the trans fluid department, but also the BRAKE FLUID deparment.
Do 10 runs back to back and see how great your brakes hold a 2500-3000 stall at the line. last run i did, the brakes were kaput. Hit 2500, redlighted. I assume the fluid had become inefficient. I will now change both fluids (Again) to ensure safety.
and put a line lock in
I hold 1st gear till redline, then bump it once to 2nd and then hold it at like 4000rpm's (nitto's) to get them toasty. then let off the brakes.
with a line lock you are using the force of the rear brakes against the trans causing ENERGY to be dissipated, namely in the trans fluid department, but also the BRAKE FLUID deparment.
Do 10 runs back to back and see how great your brakes hold a 2500-3000 stall at the line. last run i did, the brakes were kaput. Hit 2500, redlighted. I assume the fluid had become inefficient. I will now change both fluids (Again) to ensure safety.
and put a line lock in
