What size wheel studs for track use?
What size wheel studs for track use? Ok, so adding extra hp recently, going to the strip more frequently I need to invest in some longer studs;as I'm currently running et slicks on skinnies on front and 15x8 on the back.
What size do I need that will stick out as they should based off track requirments and what are the best?
My car is a 99 z28 ls1 camaro
What size do I need that will stick out as they should based off track requirments and what are the best?
My car is a 99 z28 ls1 camaro
If you're asking about length. 3" should get you what you need.
Obviously a 5/8" stud is best in the rear, but not sure if you're wanting to go through that. 1/2" studs in the front is fine.
Obviously a 5/8" stud is best in the rear, but not sure if you're wanting to go through that. 1/2" studs in the front is fine.
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Measure the depth of the wheel, easily done with a wheel off, pencil, anything you have that can fit in the hole, mark with a marker, measure. You want the shank of the lugnut to take up as much of that as possible without bottoming out on the rotor before tightening.
Summit has a ton of options for this, anything you want really, just have to search by thread you need.
Summit has a ton of options for this, anything you want really, just have to search by thread you need.
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What JL said. Measure the thickness of where the lug nut goes through the wheel and get as close to that measurement as you can.
What did you mean that the ARP stud would not fit your rear end?
What did you mean that the ARP stud would not fit your rear end?
The studs don't go in easy, if you are trying to get them in without a press here's a trick that will work. Knock the old studs out, put the new ones in up to the spline and hold in place with several well greased washers and a lug nut holding in up to the spline, put the axle in the housing so you have a way of holding it from rotating (car in gear), put the longest wrench you have on the stud and a pipe if needed, and start tightening the lug nut, it will draw in.... Not gonna be easy but they will. I did a couple sets this way before having a press
Last edited by JL ws-6; Jul 12, 2015 at 10:54 AM. Reason: Typo
The studs don't go in easy, if you are trying to get them in without a press here's a trick that will work. Knock the old studs out, put the new ones in up to the spline and hold in place with several well greased washers and a lug nut holding in up to the spline, put the axle in the housing so you have a way of holding it from rotating (car in gear), put the longest wrench you have on the stud and a pipe if needed, and start tightening the lug nut, it will draw in.... Not gonna be easy but they will. I did a couple sets this way before having a press
Last time I didn't have an air gun with enough power to completely draw them in, have a better one now that might do it but I haven't had any to install. The washers behind the lug nut and greasing the threads is all I did, but greasing the stud where it goes into the axle would make it easier I just left that dry as I wanted a good tight fit and didn't want any chance of them coming out without me forcing them.
All the studs I have now are thread in type so no more press in, last 2 rear ends I put in I had the longer studs in the axles when I ordered it so there would be no need to change until the 5/8 are needed, and I had the axles done with the holes for 5/8 also in the flange so they could upgrade with just a stud purchase. No machining needed on the axles.
All the studs I have now are thread in type so no more press in, last 2 rear ends I put in I had the longer studs in the axles when I ordered it so there would be no need to change until the 5/8 are needed, and I had the axles done with the holes for 5/8 also in the flange so they could upgrade with just a stud purchase. No machining needed on the axles.
We prefer to sell rear ends with 1/2 screw in studs because they are stronger than the 12mm studs an factory wheels will still work you just have to purchase new lug nuts.
