I am getting ready to relocate my battery to the back. I am not doing a switch. It's not an issue at local tracks. I have the Taylor kit with 2ga power and ground wire. I am going to run a 200amp fuse on the + side right off the battery. The power wire will go straight to a junction up front. From there I'm going to run 8ga wire to the starter, alt, and fuse block all linked together rather than 3 separate wires from the junction block. Ground everything up front to the body and ground off the battery in the rear. I need to know exactly what kind of fuse to get. Will this setup work properly? Thanks

 

You want an ANL fuse. You can get them at a car audio shop. Most people don't fuse them and that is just asking for your car to burn. Why not go ahead and put a switch on it. There are several ways to do it that look good. Then you can run anywhere no problem.

 

I run a solenoid back at the battery. This way the long wire to the starter from the battery is only hot during cranking

 

I ran 1/0 to the starter. 2ga. from the alt back to the battery with welding cable. Any lesser quality cable will have voltage drop and work the alt. 2 150 amp slow blow fuses. I have a brass feed through on the firewall and take power for a panel and fuse boxes across the inner firewall. I will snap some pics once I finish the carpet.

 

There is absolutely no scenario where I would relocate the battery and not put a switch in. That's just asking for a bad day, and any track that lets you get away with that, needs to fire every tech inspector they have. No sanctioning body will allow it.

 

I agree on puttng the switch in it while you are doing it. Really doesn't cost that much and is nice and easy to disconnect the battery, esp. if your doing it right and putting it in a box. I didn't use a fuse on mine, I used a stinger 200A breaker on the ground wire. I wasnt sure if it would pop it on the positive side when trying to start it. Works fine on the neg side.

 

He may just run TNT and informal type stuff. At our local tracks they don't scrutinize the street cars too hard at all, and I assume his may be similar.

Amperage draw doesn't change according to positive or negative. It just doesn't work that way. The reason we fuse on the positive side of circuits is only we are fusing them individually and grounds are grouped together. To fuse the whole system it doesn't matter which side the fuse or breaker is installed on. However, I have seen large power wires overheat from being under sized and they burn from the positive terminal and go down the line. So that's where I would fuse if I had the choice.

 

I'm with JL, but to start with, the OP wire is too small and DC starts with the ground wire, so put the fuse on the ground wire. Protects the whole system.

 

Run an amp on a gauge too small of wire and see which wire burns first.

 

You'll need to run the alternator wire all the way back to the battery. I had mine wired with the alternator wire ran to my dist. block on the fire wall and it wasn't charging my battery well at all. Talked to the electrical engineer at Mt work and he said doing it the way you want to will create "noise" and could possibly mess up some things. So run it to the battery with a 2g cable so it charges the battery and runs the car properly.

 

some pics