Traction issues after lowering car?
11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
This does 2 things. Moves your IC height lower and moves it out farther out from the rear tires. Thus the anitsquat % is also reduced.
A fix would be to now change the mounting points of the lower control arm on the housing side. Lowering the bolt hole 1/2 to 3/4" will put the lower arm back in an incline and this will move the IC height back up and also shorten the IC (increasing your antisquat).
Hope this helps.
-Mark
Lowering the chassis changes the angle of the rear lower control arms between the chassis and the axle. Lowering LCA brackets (preferably weld-on instead of bolt-on) will have a few holes in them so you have a few options on what you want that angle to be. For a good handling car you want the arms to be near level but slightly lower at the axle... shoot for 5-8* lower at the axle; drag racers might want the angle to be even higher.
I've got a 9" with four holes of adjustment so I "SHOULD" be ok then. I've got DA QA1 coilovers on all four corners. Do any of you know a good starting adjustment for them? I just putthem on there whichis why the car just got lowered.
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I fought mine all season ..but finally its coming around...average was 1.38 60 ..last night i had a 1.32/1.31 and a 1.28 I found my long lost traction..lol
On the shocks set your rear extension (rebound) to full loose ..tighten until the car spins ...compression in the rear start about in the middle ..fronts i run 10 clicks from full tight on compression and rebound full tight ..and im still dragging the bumper ... rear control arms 2/3 degrees up hill to the body..
On the shocks set your rear extension (rebound) to full loose ..tighten until the car spins ...compression in the rear start about in the middle ..fronts i run 10 clicks from full tight on compression and rebound full tight ..and im still dragging the bumper ... rear control arms 2/3 degrees up hill to the body..
Last edited by chevelledave; Oct 3, 2015 at 03:38 PM.
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11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
If you have the power, keep the 28's. They have a larger side wall (and bigger roll out) and are more forgiving on sub par tracks. If it bogs just add some air.
For your control arm setup... at the ride height you are at, try and move the rear bolt hole down to where the rear mounting bolt is 3/4" to 1.25" lower than that where it is sitting CURRENTLY. Depending on the increments of the holes of course.
-Mark
For your control arm setup... at the ride height you are at, try and move the rear bolt hole down to where the rear mounting bolt is 3/4" to 1.25" lower than that where it is sitting CURRENTLY. Depending on the increments of the holes of course.
-Mark
This thing is pretty low HP and not much gear. Its only 370HP and its got a 3.70 gear. I'm taking my extra wheels with 26's and the ones on the car will be 28's so hopefully I can try them both on the same night.
