JWStevens

iTrader: (1)

I just lowered my 4th camaro a lot and I was wondering if any of you had issues with traction after you lowered your car.

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

Hopefully madman will be along shortly to give you an exact reason, but I believe it has something to do with lowering you instant center.

BODUKE

Harder on rear end during launches especially with 6 speed cars.

Bitemark46

Correct. When you lower the car you are effectively putting the tires higher up into the wheel well. That means that the lower control arm goes from an incline (going up from back to front) to either parallel to the ground or even pointing down towards the ground (back to front).

This does 2 things. Moves your IC height lower and moves it out farther out from the rear tires. Thus the anitsquat % is also reduced.

A fix would be to now change the mounting points of the lower control arm on the housing side. Lowering the bolt hole 1/2 to 3/4" will put the lower arm back in an incline and this will move the IC height back up and also shorten the IC (increasing your antisquat).

Hope this helps.

-Mark

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Lowering the chassis changes the angle of the rear lower control arms between the chassis and the axle. Lowering LCA brackets (preferably weld-on instead of bolt-on) will have a few holes in them so you have a few options on what you want that angle to be. For a good handling car you want the arms to be near level but slightly lower at the axle... shoot for 5-8* lower at the axle; drag racers might want the angle to be even higher.

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

Try to keep the lca angle as close to 2* downhill from the body to the axle as possible.

JWStevens

iTrader: (1)

I've got a 9" with four holes of adjustment so I "SHOULD" be ok then. I've got DA QA1 coilovers on all four corners. Do any of you know a good starting adjustment for them? I just putthem on there whichis why the car just got lowered.

chevelledave

iTrader: (5)

I fought mine all season ..but finally its coming around...average was 1.38 60 ..last night i had a 1.32/1.31 and a 1.28 I found my long lost traction..lol
On the shocks set your rear extension (rebound) to full loose ..tighten until the car spins ...compression in the rear start about in the middle ..fronts i run 10 clicks from full tight on compression and rebound full tight ..and im still dragging the bumper ... rear control arms 2/3 degrees up hill to the body..

JWStevens

iTrader: (1)

Mine is my daily so 1.50's would be nice.

Barney Kraetzig

I had to raise mine back up wouldnt hook and had oil pan clearance issues .

chevelledave

iTrader: (5)

right on ..I would go full loose on rebound on the fronts and see what it does
and work with rebound on the rear as well if its to tight in the rear it wont let the car seperate ..

JWStevens

iTrader: (1)

I'm also going to try a 26" tire because I feel like these 28" tires are lugging it on. The strating line. It seems to need some light wheel spin with the 28's.

Bitemark46

If you have the power, keep the 28's. They have a larger side wall (and bigger roll out) and are more forgiving on sub par tracks. If it bogs just add some air.

For your control arm setup... at the ride height you are at, try and move the rear bolt hole down to where the rear mounting bolt is 3/4" to 1.25" lower than that where it is sitting CURRENTLY. Depending on the increments of the holes of course.

-Mark

JWStevens

iTrader: (1)

This thing is pretty low HP and not much gear. Its only 370HP and its got a 3.70 gear. I'm taking my extra wheels with 26's and the ones on the car will be 28's so hopefully I can try them both on the same night.

NewOrleansLT1

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