SH*T TALKING MUSTANG DRIVER
Good luck,
-Dewayne
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You need to get that thing AutoTapped to see if you're getting any knock retard. I was getting SEVERE knock retard when I ran ported MAF ends with stock heads and cam. This could be costing you a bunch of power.
It got better after I got my cam/heads, but I still don't run a ported MAF..just a stock de-screened unit.
Get with me and you can borrow my AutoTap to check it out.
If you're O2's are way off, a MAFT might help a little, but you could probably spend your money more wisely. Chances are, you're probably running a little on the rich side, which is safe (especially for N20) and doesnt cost you all that much power.
You guys need to get a good cam in that ride....MTI, Thunder, SpeedDemon, etc. all have nice cam/spring/retainer/pushrod packages for around $800, and then do the install yourself. Let's see....overnight order the Cam on Monday.... get it Tuesday....install on Wednesday, and Thursday and Friday for testing and tuning....there's your plan!
Get rid of your carpet (40 pounds)
Front bumper support, foglights (23 pounds)
EGR, AIR and Cruise (16 pounds)
under dash panels 4 pounds.
That should put you close for sure <img src="gr_grin.gif" border="0">
Chris
Josh S.
-Borrow some skinnies, there's 40-50 lbs off the nose.
-Remove passenger seat? 30lbs
That's easy weight reduction...
I bet a HPP3 to raise up the shift points just a bit would be nice.
If racing on the street I would foot stall it up to 2500 and roll out.
I did that on Nitto's and the Mustang I raced spun thru three gears trying to catch me...
FWIW I was a 11.7 car at that time on a slick and he was an 11.8 car as he sat (on 28" ET Streets).
[ March 04, 2002: Message edited by: JPJBC ]</p>




