Switching to Viking
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10 Second Club
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 377
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
Switching to Viking I added nitrous this past year, was able to get to a track rental at the end of the year and get some runs in. I pulled a 1.37 & 1.38 60 ft, but the car had a lot of squat, on a suspension combo that probably wasn't the best. Picked up viking coilovers from MWC. Going to start with the viking suggested settings, and go from there. Won't be able to try them out until winter is over.
I couldn't believe the 60 it pulled, but I think it could be better, and made the leap. Hopefully I can get a little more weight out of the car. Open to any suggestions on settings as well.
~3600 race weight
KYB AGX (think I had the fronts at 1 and rears at 3 or 5)
Strano Springs
Stock Rear Sway bar
No front sway bar
Trans mounted full length BMR torque arm
Moser 12bolt w/ 4.11s
Stock T56
Launching on nitrous
Car sat like this:
Car launched like this:
I couldn't believe the 60 it pulled, but I think it could be better, and made the leap. Hopefully I can get a little more weight out of the car. Open to any suggestions on settings as well.
~3600 race weight
KYB AGX (think I had the fronts at 1 and rears at 3 or 5)
Strano Springs
Stock Rear Sway bar
No front sway bar
Trans mounted full length BMR torque arm
Moser 12bolt w/ 4.11s
Stock T56
Launching on nitrous
Car sat like this:
Car launched like this:
That's an awesome sixty for a T56 car. My car is auto, but I was also able to pull a 1.36 on the stock rear shocks, and Strange SA in front. I could tell my stock rear shocks were maxed out though, so I threw in some QA1 SA for the rear, and the next time out was able to pull a 1.25. I would def think you will gain some with the new shocks.
I added nitrous this past year, was able to get to a track rental at the end of the year and get some runs in. I pulled a 1.37 & 1.38 60 ft, but the car had a lot of squat, on a suspension combo that probably wasn't the best. Picked up viking coilovers from MWC. Going to start with the viking suggested settings, and go from there. Won't be able to try them out until winter is over.
I couldn't believe the 60 it pulled, but I think it could be better, and made the leap. Hopefully I can get a little more weight out of the car. Open to any suggestions on settings as well.
~3600 race weight
KYB AGX (think I had the fronts at 1 and rears at 3 or 5)
Strano Springs
Stock Rear Sway bar
No front sway bar
Trans mounted full length BMR torque arm
Moser 12bolt w/ 4.11s
Stock T56
Launching on nitrous
I couldn't believe the 60 it pulled, but I think it could be better, and made the leap. Hopefully I can get a little more weight out of the car. Open to any suggestions on settings as well.
~3600 race weight
KYB AGX (think I had the fronts at 1 and rears at 3 or 5)
Strano Springs
Stock Rear Sway bar
No front sway bar
Trans mounted full length BMR torque arm
Moser 12bolt w/ 4.11s
Stock T56
Launching on nitrous
Thanks for the order! We will happy to assist you with settings on the shocks when the time comes, just give us a call or send a message here or catch us on Facebook.
As far as what will make the car work better is the torque arm you are running isn't helping matters, and a good rear anti-roll. There could be some other supporting mods that will round out the suspension, but the first two things will get you in the ball park.
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Thanks for the order! We will happy to assist you with settings on the shocks when the time comes, just give us a call or send a message here or catch us on Facebook.
As far as what will make the car work better is the torque arm you are running isn't helping matters, and a good rear anti-roll. There could be some other supporting mods that will round out the suspension, but the first two things will get you in the ball park.
As far as what will make the car work better is the torque arm you are running isn't helping matters, and a good rear anti-roll. There could be some other supporting mods that will round out the suspension, but the first two things will get you in the ball park.
I appreciate it. I am only running the full length because at the time, there wasn't a DSL I could run along with the tunnel mount that would clear my true duals. I have your DSL that goes up in the tunnel, but now you offer the true dual crossmember with the arm mount that would clear my exhaust. I need to switch that all up when the time comes before my tailshaft housing cracks.
I would take up Midwest Chassis on their reply. If you can, take video of each launch you make and try to describe things the best you can. With those two things, the guys at Midwest Chassis will for sure be able to get you dialed in.
Thread Starter
10 Second Club
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 377
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
I had tried a bit more, but it hooked up best with the 12psi. I only made 4 runs, so really only a few changes. Started with 14, and dropped it down to 12 and had my best run and then backed it up.
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Thread Starter
10 Second Club
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 377
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
Thanks man. Hoosier 18155, stiff wall. I was just dumping it at 5k & 5500. Wrinkled and went. Little bit of spin, but recovered real quick. Glad I went with them. I have to pick new drag radials for the street next year, the et street radials I had are worn out.
Vikings DA where one of the best components I bought for my car. took me a bit to get them right but they work amazing. I'm 135 137 off an idle now.
https://www.facebook.com/shaun.hirschmann/videos/10206682933684235/
https://www.facebook.com/shaun.hirschmann/videos/10206682933684235/
