mods needed for a low 10s ls2?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
mods needed for a low 10s ls2? I have an 05 GTO with an ls2 (if the username didnt tell you that) and while im painfully aware that making it faster than a z06 and remaining street legal is more of a dream than possibility, i was wondering what mods would be necessary for it to be done? Ideally i would want the car to run 10's at the strip (drag radials, nitrous, rear seats temporarily removed etc) but be reliable enough for daily use or road trips. Current mods are a volant cold air intake and a 3in flowmaster exhaust. Planned mods would be long tube headers, decent sized cam, forged pistons, rods, springs, LSx 92mm intake, fuel injectors, upgraded driveshaft and rear suspension to handle the extra horses, then im thinking twin turbos, any turbo supporting mods i dont know of to make it reliable as can be. I was wondering what more i would need to hit high 9's or low 10's. Im really not sure about what kind of upgrades i should do to the suspension to get it to be stronger/hook up better so any information on that would be great! as well as information on the turbo's size or additional mods? (sorry if this is the wrong thread! first post any information is appreciated)
Last edited by 05GTO6.0; Dec 20, 2015 at 11:27 PM.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,845
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From: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
Procharger,MMS 220 Heads, MAMOFIED FAST 92,mild CAMMOTION Cam
And supporting hardware specced by Kip, ARH 1 7/8 LTs, ZR1
Fuel injectors and upgraded pump from FIC, I wouldn't
Touch short block unless high miles or questionable Maint. Mild stall
2800-3600 RPM Max, drivetrain and suspension mods to survive
Power. Engine should make 650+ RWHP with 8-10 lbs of boost
And be very civil for a daily driver.
And supporting hardware specced by Kip, ARH 1 7/8 LTs, ZR1
Fuel injectors and upgraded pump from FIC, I wouldn't
Touch short block unless high miles or questionable Maint. Mild stall
2800-3600 RPM Max, drivetrain and suspension mods to survive
Power. Engine should make 650+ RWHP with 8-10 lbs of boost
And be very civil for a daily driver.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
If possible I would want to use some turbos and not a supercharger. I really like the sound of turbos and anti lag systems and whatnot, and supercharger whines dont sit well with my soul. I understand that it would be more expensive which is unfortunate to say the least, but since im going to dump so much money into the car anyways i figure it should be something i want.
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Ill tell you bluntly a lot of money.... You should just tell ppl your budget makes it a lot easier than saying "dump so much money into the car". Only then ppl can actually tell you if you can make it into the low 10s and 9s on your budget.
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10 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 933
Likes: 75
Get forged pistons, blower cam, good heads, headers, boost referenced fuel pumps, DeWitts radiator, electric water pump, bigger alternator, overdriven TVS 2300, bigger half shafts, aluminum driveshaft, 27x11.5 x 15 Hoosier dr's, 9" Weld wheels with 6.5" backspace, ARP wheel studs, front skinnies, 4L80E, and a really good tune. The TVS doesn't whine and drives like a grandpa's car on the street. Will not run 9's.
Or, just run lots of nitrous and have a drag tune and a street tune.
Oh yeah, drag bags and Viking dbl adjustable shocks.
Or, just run lots of nitrous and have a drag tune and a street tune.
Oh yeah, drag bags and Viking dbl adjustable shocks.
Last edited by dw456post; Dec 21, 2015 at 08:14 PM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
hoping to run high 9's on the track with drag radials, nos, and weight reduction with temporary stuff such as removing the back seats (which are heavy af in a gto). Not expecting to run 9's while keeping that 4000lb weight. Probably somewhere around 3500?
Invest in the non removable parts first, then add power.
-Bullet proof trans
-Bullet proof diff with steeper gears
-Bullet proof axles
-Bullet proof drive shaft
-High flashing stall
-Plus Many more parts
I wrote bullet proof, but nothing is bullet proof. You may shred all these components first day racing with the power that is required to run 9's in a GTO.
I am assuming you're auto. If you're manual, then bank on spending even more $.
Once you're car's drivetrain is physically capable of running and supporting a 9 second pass, then add the required power to get there.
It's going to get expensive real quick. You may as well just leave it alone and buy a corvette.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 166
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From: Walton Woods
Have a plan for your entire build before you get started. So many of the mods you will need will not be efficiently interchangeable with each other. For example, if you are going FI (turbo or super charger) the cam you will need will be different than the type you will need if you are building old school muscle. That is only one small example. Build the car so that the mods support each other as opposed to adding and subtracting parts along the way which may or may not work well in concert. FWIW, a 9 second GTO, or even a 10 second GTO, is going to be a high risk road trip car and a serious compromise as a daily driver. Good luck!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 69
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Ok, been a while since i made this post and ive sorted quite a few more details about my goal along the way. Current plan is a single, front mount turbo pushing around 600 wheel, 2 step launch control, already have the trans build to hold 750bhp (old one busted, figured to build room to grow), after than would be a 9in rear with some 3:93 gears and drag radials. Think this would hit 10s?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
ok thanks for the info, from what ive heard the stock rear end is pretty fragile for radial dig launches? i could be overcompensating with a 9'' tho, what would you recommend? I dont think ill be able to hit 3500lb race weight so i think ill have to launch pretty hard to hit 10's in an m6
10 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2005
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The M6 part was an important part to leave out of the initial post. I am still running the stock diff---auto trans tho and I leave at about 1700rpm. If you rev it up pretty good and dump the clutch, you ARE going to break something in the stock driveline. I bought the car new with a m6, but when I started at the drags, I gave up on it and went auto. Currie makes a 9" straight axle conversion, GForce makes a 9" independent and DSS/Hendrix make a 8.8 and a 9" independent. Have fun 