I think this video worked but anyway. I need help with getting this car to hook. It's a 408 T56 9" car. Best 60 with the 408 is 1.58 but this was a 1.6 pass. It's got a mwc k member and control arms and strange DA shocks on the front and no front sway and long torque arm set up. This was leaving at 4k with the sbe I could leave at 6500 and cut 1.51. I'm on a 27x11.5 QTP 430 gears.
I think this thing is capable of a high 1.4x anyway.
http://s1039.photobucket.com/user/va...bile%20Uploads

 

Here's the time slip for this pass I'm also running out of gear up top.

 

She is definitely making the power and moving on the backend.

 

Loosen rear extention and tighten compression
Does it spin or bog?

 

It spins. I can leave at 5k and blow the qtps off through first and second. 4k seems to 60 the best as far as rpm. And the rear is still bilsteins and stock springs.

 

Call Madman and tell him to hook yih with some aftermarket springs such as Afco.

 

Your car def has the power to 60ft better. Last time out I kept inching my launch rpm up and the car kept 60fting faster everytime. I didn't always put the rest of the run together however to take full advantage. Short shift a gear or so, tap the limiter trying not to short shift

It pulled 1.426 and 1.43 back to back. Launching 62-6300, off the two step. I didn't see these results until I got a fresh set of MT ET Drags, the stiff walls. Previously my best was a 1.51-1.52 but the car wouldn't recover as fast on the non stiff tires.

My setup suspension wise is nothing really special. Shocks up front are the Viking DA with 300 lb springs. Settings aren't anything special, I just have em for the track (so far) at full stiff on compression, and full loose on extension. The rear still utilizes the factory spring with those super cheap Competition Engineering 3 way adjustable shocks set on 50/50.

I have the M9 torque arm set in the top hole on the cross member. Control arms in the bottom hole on the rear end LCA brackets. Pinion angle set to -2. I run the BMR Xtreme sway bar out back, the original one where you have to weld in the brackets to the chassis. I have a UMI tub K and upper and lower control arms up front. BMR LCAs out back with BMR adjustable pan hard rod.

With 4.30s and fresh MT ET streets in 27", the car just wouldn't hook for crap. They were my buddies and he let me try em before I went with my original plan of 4.57s and 28" et drag stiff walls. Before I bought the new stiff walls tho I used my old 28" mt reg walls and it went 1.51s as a best, but it would pull the front up higher then lose more momentum and come down quicker. The pic in my sig is with the non stiff walls. The new stiffs it pulls the fronts up but not as high and sets em down easier and doesn't pull the motor down as hard, and 60fts faster.

I shared all this info with you to make this suggestion, serious 6 speed guys need stiff walls out back, 28" diameter. My suggestion is Mickey Thompson et drags 28x10.50 15S. Part number 3055S iirc. And if your gonna stay all motor, get 4.56/4.57s. If ur planning to spray later then you'll have to chose your gearing for that and suffer some while N/A.

 

What kind of power and trap speeds are you getting? I don't know if 430s and a 28" will be enough gear to keep me from still topping out. The car falls off terribly up top. It feels like I'm just floating about the 1k and then I bump the limiter right before I go through the traps. I peak around 6500 but I'm forcing it to 7200. I'm on the bottom hole in the lca and the second hole down on my Mwc long arm.

 

Hopefully Brian chime back in.(my close freind) His car just ran a 10.55 @ 129.99 so far.

 

I think just going to a fresh set of 28" stiff wall slicks will get you there.

 

It's been trapping just under 130. 129.99 has been the fastest. That was last years pass. This year I really improved the 60ft but had a diff tune in the car that I thought was gonna run as well as the tune I ran with last year. However with a better 60ft, 1.46 compared to 1.54 last year that went 10.64@129.99, it barely picked up on the big end and went 10.58 with the mph slightly lower at 129.80. I was also 100 lbs lighter. I didn't get a chance to swap back to the other tune to verify my suspicion. But to lower the 60ft that much and also be 100 lbs lighter and not even pick up a full tenth I find very odd. I'll know for sure when the track reopens this spring. I'll make a few passes with the tune from this last outing in it then swap back to the one I believe is the better tune and see if it picks up like I expected.

4.30s with 28" will give u PLENTY of rpm on the big end. More than u need and not optimum IMO. I'm running 4.57s and I make it through the traps without hitting the limiter. I have played with it and had it set from 7200-7300. Here's a graph with 28.1 tire height first with 4.57s and then with 4.30s (keep in mind the tires will grow a little more on the big end which slightly raises the over all gear ratio).





From what all I read the torque arm being in the top hole of the cross member offers the best traction. I need to watch the video u posted to see if I can hear it fall off like u said. Mine carries peak power to about 6425 but it pulls HARD all the way to the limiter. Yours based off the trap speeds seems to be making great power as well. Def wouldn't have thought it didn't pull strong up top based off the slip.

 

I can def tell its spinning, but it doesn't sound like it falls off up top but of course u driving it and hearing it from inside the car is diff than me watching a video from far off. Is that track downhill?? Lol looks like it is! Must be nice

Here's a video of my car this last outing. I'm pretty sure this was the 1.426 60ft or the 1.43. I tapped the limiter on the 3-4 or it may have been my best run. It was the fastest 1/8th et I've ever ran (6.73).

 

I can feel it in the car. It's like the shift light comes on and I feel the car just nose over. Like it just frees up or something and doesn't pull hard all the way through. It feels like it's just floating. It made 571/522 on a loaded dynojet. And I think it looks down hill to but it doesn't roll through the lights lol.

 

What are you trapping in the 1/8?

 

Man that's some hero numbers!! Based on what your saying it sounds like maybe valvetrain stability issues. Was the graph smooth from 6500-7200? Did it fall off hard after peak? That was one thing I really spent some time on was setting my valvetrain up. My car only loses 13rw from peak to 6900 rpm.

 

It's went 102 and some change. I'd have to look through my slips for the exact mph.

 

Here's the dyno sheet. They did it in mph rather than rpm. I think the loaded part jacked the numbers up. It laid down 535 through the sealed ram air set up then he loaded the dyno and it went to 555. Then he pulled the air box lid off and ran a open bellow and it went to 570.63. My valve train is ls7 lifters (only about 30 preload) hardened pushrods stock rockers and the PAC 700 springs. Cam is a 251/259 .624/.624 114+3.

 

Graph looks nice and smooth, but at 108 mph we both know that wasn't revved out as high as your running it at the track, so we can't use it to attempt to come to any type of theory.

I will say that your cam is larger than mine, and every characteristic of it would push your powerband higher than mine, if not limited by the intake that is. Point being I don't think it should lay down like you describe.

That's rather light on the preload on those lifters. Any particular reason u set them that light? What diameter and wall thickness pushrods are u running?

I don't have any experience with those springs, so I haven't a clue what their open and seat pressures are. I can say I shimmed my AFR 8019s for better valve control. I also went with custom length 11/32 .120 wall pushrods for less deflection. Morel 5206 link bar lifters in case your curious.

Lol we went from how to hook to why is this thing nosing over at high rpms. Get em both lined out she'll be rolling!

 

First out a set of 3055s et drags on, I played with qtp's that size and they just won't cut it once you're making power, plus the sidewalls are too soft so you have to run too much air to stop them from collapsing and sending the rim into the track.

Once you have a real tire on it he advise of calling madman for some rear shocks and springs is about the best possible advise you could be given.

4.56 rear end with a 28 is fine. OR, the m12 tranny from a gto, has a lot steeper first and 2nd and will let you run the 4.30 and have the top end of that but help
With the big issue on first and 2nd. Every person I have told to put one in and has done it has gone .2 faster, fwiw.

But get the right tire on the car first, then the shocks from madman. That doesn't get the car into the 1.39 ish range you're not leaving with enough man pants ( leave off limiter )

 

Oh and your valve springs, if you aren't shimmed within .050 of coil bind at full lift shim them. Springs need to have about 270 at seat and a solid 450 at full open imo on a cam like that if you don't want to worry about float