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Yes I do have a strange master. Probably why the oem brakes worked so poorly. lol
Well you should be fine then. The strange master cylinder doesn't put out the sameness pressure as the stock one. So in theory it will not warp the rotors as easily.
Well you should be fine then. The strange master cylinder doesn't put out the sameness pressure as the stock one. So in theory it will not warp the rotors as easily.
Um, not to start a fight, but that is incorrect. If you are using a stock master, Mopar master, or any other master it still requires the same PSI to stop the car. If the bore size is different between masters, then the volume will change, but not the pressure. The pistons are the same size in the calipers and thats what stops the car and determines how much PSI of line pressure it requires. Your pedal ratio will determine how much you have to push with your leg to achieve line pressure. The proper 7:1 pedal ratio on a manual master is best when using a 7/8" bore master cylinder. That will allow for line pressures north of 1000psi and not feel like you are pushing a 500lb sand bag.
Having said all that, none of it has anything to do with damaging rotors. Prolonged high temperatures jacks the rotors. So lets say, driving in traffic, trying to stop a heavy car going very fast, dragging caliper, etc are causes for rotor damage. The brake pad compound will also cause issues. OP, if you are using the DR-97 pad, you may wanna switch to the HPS compound.
Look at my post count and my years of being a member here. I usually dont say ****, and keep my unwanted opinions to myself. I just really like your car, and wanna help you with any knowledge I can. Everything you have done recently is amazing and that car should haul the mail nicely!
Well you should be fine then. The strange master cylinder doesn't put out the sameness pressure as the stock one. So in theory it will not warp the rotors as easily.
I already cut it to the windshield lol. So depending on room I might flip the intake top backwards. Really crazy, i wish edelbrock made the pro flo for rec ports. If I wouldnt have ran into the deal on the block and heads combo I would have stayed cathedral.
Well I appreciate it man. I definitely will check into the pads. I didnt think to far into it when I ordered them. They had their 35% off sale so I jumped on it. originally was going to run the strange. Several of the cars I built when down south we ran strange and very rarely warped a rotor.
I disagree on street driving on these brakes as I have the same exact ones on all 4 corners of my car. They stop me from 160mph with no problems and I street drive it more then I do at the track and they are still smooth as silk!! And all I'll say is Chicago traffic......not very smooth driving!! I wouldn't stress 1 bit about driving them on the street regardless of what the guy said who worked there. I'm telling you from my first hand experience, take it for what it is, lol.
I disagree on street driving on these brakes as I have the same exact ones on all 4 corners of my car. They stop me from 160mph with no problems and I street drive it more then I do at the track and they are still smooth as silk!! And all I'll say is Chicago traffic......not very smooth driving!! I wouldn't stress 1 bit about driving them on the street regardless of what the guy said who worked there. I'm telling you from my first hand experience, take it for what it is, lol.
Well ****! Hopefully It works smooth for me. I was always surprised at how well the strange take a beating.
I disagree on street driving on these brakes as I have the same exact ones on all 4 corners of my car. They stop me from 160mph with no problems and I street drive it more then I do at the track and they are still smooth as silk!! And all I'll say is Chicago traffic......not very smooth driving!! I wouldn't stress 1 bit about driving them on the street regardless of what the guy said who worked there. I'm telling you from my first hand experience, take it for what it is, lol.
Good to hear. I never said the brakes dont work on the drag strip. I simply said they were never designed to work in a street driven application. If you do drive them on the street, and you drive easy not building tons of heat in them for prolonged periods of time, Im sure they will last. But, if you drive your 3000lbs+ car like you drive your wifes SUV in traffic, they will bowl over time. Trust me, I had to take the tech calls of people using the brakes on a street car and having problems.
OP I must say, your engine building room is nicer than my living room! I dont think I could ever convince my wife to let me bring car parts inside the house, good job!
When I moved back from florida I forked over the cash for us to get into our place. I ended up getting the house for $80k. Full basement, 2,700 sq ft, 2 car-2 story garage in the back yard, about 1.75 acres. It was foreclosed on. I hustled my *** off last summer doing sidework 7 days a week after work. So she dosent have much say lol. The second living room is for my bike and my special car parts haha. Works out good. I also bought the acre next door. Trying to regulate my time to buy car parts and pole barn money. But Im getting there. Taking me 6 months to get the barn up. ITs almost finished. Itll be a huge weight off my shoulders. Ive been doing cam installs and convertors in my two car garage for the past year almost. Im too old and fat for that ****. 2 bay garage full of engine parts and my camaro that hasnt moved since november.
Soon though. Soon Ill be caught up and get **** done.
PTC 9.5" standard
Company just south of me made this radiator for $400 bucks to fit my front bumper. $550 into it after fans. Should cool better then last year. I am going to mount it right up front inside the bumper. Since I am running A2W this year itll have plenty of room up front.
This engine is the biggest headache I have ever had. I hope it pays off.
Oil pan definitely fits like ****. Front and rear covers have a nice gap. Centered it to make it as even as possible. Heads suck ***. I ordered 3/8ths pushrods and they barely fit in the holes. Absolutely no clearance for pushrods. So ordering a set of 5/16ths.
This thing better be worth its weight in gold by the time its done. Or ill sell the damn thing and go back to an l33 lol
I hate being that whiny little bitch but Im really not too excited about the fitment and quality of these parts. The dart block had 6 lifter bores that were too small, surface was exact deck height but required a surface because it was too course for mls gaskets, it cost about double what machine work should have.
These heads WTF? Talk about lack of room for a pushrod. If a 5/16ths pushrod dosent hit or rub any of the cylinder castings I will be surprised.
Then the oil pan, sure did hear that they were revised and fit perfectly from the salesman. Talk about a bent up rough ground on pan. Looks great, but it is definitely too short. The front cover BARELY fits. I spent atleast 2-3 hours installing and uninstalling the crank pulley hub to drill holes in the pan and cover to center it for the front main seal. Still think itll leak but it was the absolute best I could get it.
Sorry to hear about your frustrations. The pushrods holes can be sleeved like you had to do on the first style of tfs heads to run bigger pushrods. It just sucks that there is always extra costs and time associated with parts guaranteed to work together. I'm a baller on a budget so nothing I ever get is bolt on and go, lol.
05-12-2017, 02:17 PM
