Rollbar/cage questions.
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From: Houston, TX
Rollbar/cage questions. 1. Is Wolfe the way to go?
2. Is a rollbar/cage a safety mod, strength mod, or both?
3. What's better, a weld-in or bolt-in?
4. There's 4, 5, 6, and 10 point to my knowledge, what would be the best to start from?
5. How far does each point cover as far as time or mph? For instance: (This may not be true, just using it as an example.) A 4 point is needed for 12.99 and faster, 5 point is needed for 12.49 and faster, 6 point is needed for 11.99 and faster, etc. etc.
6. Does a weld-in allow you to run faster than you would if you had a bolt-in?
7. Say I went with a 6 point, could it be modified to a 10 point?
8. If you choose the swing out option, does it increase or decrease the total weight of the rollbar/cage?
9. I assume swing outs are for convenience? (Make it easier to get in and out of the car?) If so, then you would want both doors to have swing outs if you drive the car on the street often and you have a passenger?
10. Is it that big of a deal not to get swing outs?
11. I noticed the removable center bar option, what is it and whats it purpose in being removed?
12. Why isnt jig notching offered with the bolt-in? Honestly, I dont even know what that is. Explanation?
Sorry for all the questions, but Im getting ready to order a rollbar/cage for the car and I need to make sure that I choose the right options. Thanks a lot.
2. Is a rollbar/cage a safety mod, strength mod, or both?
3. What's better, a weld-in or bolt-in?
4. There's 4, 5, 6, and 10 point to my knowledge, what would be the best to start from?
5. How far does each point cover as far as time or mph? For instance: (This may not be true, just using it as an example.) A 4 point is needed for 12.99 and faster, 5 point is needed for 12.49 and faster, 6 point is needed for 11.99 and faster, etc. etc.
6. Does a weld-in allow you to run faster than you would if you had a bolt-in?
7. Say I went with a 6 point, could it be modified to a 10 point?
8. If you choose the swing out option, does it increase or decrease the total weight of the rollbar/cage?
9. I assume swing outs are for convenience? (Make it easier to get in and out of the car?) If so, then you would want both doors to have swing outs if you drive the car on the street often and you have a passenger?
10. Is it that big of a deal not to get swing outs?
11. I noticed the removable center bar option, what is it and whats it purpose in being removed?
12. Why isnt jig notching offered with the bolt-in? Honestly, I dont even know what that is. Explanation?
Sorry for all the questions, but Im getting ready to order a rollbar/cage for the car and I need to make sure that I choose the right options. Thanks a lot.
1. Is one way to go.
2. Both
3. Weld in
4. 6 point. You will need a 10 point if you go faster than 10.00
5. Above
6. For the times your talking about running you need a weld in.
7. Yes
8. Increse just alittle bit.
9. Convenience only. I have both and I never use them.
10. No big deal. If I had it to do again. I wouldn't get them.
11. It is illegal
12. jig notching is for the welding in the cage
13. Call Madman and he will hook ya up. Tell him Coach sent ya. 281-290-8899
Coach
2. Both
3. Weld in
4. 6 point. You will need a 10 point if you go faster than 10.00
5. Above
6. For the times your talking about running you need a weld in.
7. Yes
8. Increse just alittle bit.
9. Convenience only. I have both and I never use them.
10. No big deal. If I had it to do again. I wouldn't get them.
11. It is illegal
12. jig notching is for the welding in the cage
13. Call Madman and he will hook ya up. Tell him Coach sent ya. 281-290-8899
Coach
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From: Houston, TX
Replying to your answers on questions below:
1. I assume you say 1 way to go because there are other manufacturers out there? I said Wolfe was the way to go because thats what most people have. Is your rollbar/cage from Madman?
3. Why do you say weld-in is better? Not doubting you, just curious.
4. 6 point is what I had in mine too, but why are 4 and 5 even offered? I dont plan on running faster than a 10.00, but if I ever did, it will be a long time from now. What is the 8 point for and what does it cover?
5. What time does a 6 point weld-in cover? Bolt-in?
6. I hope to get into the low 11s, but my goal is to break into the 10s.
7. Is it hard to convert? What needs to be done?
9. Do you have pics of the swing outs? Reason I ask is because I thought that they attached to the doors and when you opened the door, the bar comes out with it. So obviously thats not the way it works, could you send or post pics so that I know how it works?
11. If its illegal, why is it offered? Whats the purpose of having the ability to remove it?
Thanks Coach for all your help!
1. I assume you say 1 way to go because there are other manufacturers out there? I said Wolfe was the way to go because thats what most people have. Is your rollbar/cage from Madman?
3. Why do you say weld-in is better? Not doubting you, just curious.
4. 6 point is what I had in mine too, but why are 4 and 5 even offered? I dont plan on running faster than a 10.00, but if I ever did, it will be a long time from now. What is the 8 point for and what does it cover?
5. What time does a 6 point weld-in cover? Bolt-in?
6. I hope to get into the low 11s, but my goal is to break into the 10s.
7. Is it hard to convert? What needs to be done?
9. Do you have pics of the swing outs? Reason I ask is because I thought that they attached to the doors and when you opened the door, the bar comes out with it. So obviously thats not the way it works, could you send or post pics so that I know how it works?
11. If its illegal, why is it offered? Whats the purpose of having the ability to remove it?
Thanks Coach for all your help!
I'd go get a NHRA rule book if I were you. It will answer all your cage requirement questions.
Keep in mind that some of the cage/bars that companies sell are not designed for drag racing. Some are made for road racing and therefore have different safety requirements and allow different things. A removeable center bar is one of those. It's convienent to install only for track days and not in the way on the street, but it's not legal for drag racing (NHRA anyway).
BTW, a 5 point roll bar is NHRA legal up to 9.99 I believe. Then you have to go to a full cage. And, bolting is sometimes allowed, but welding is always going to be better/stronger.
Keep in mind that some of the cage/bars that companies sell are not designed for drag racing. Some are made for road racing and therefore have different safety requirements and allow different things. A removeable center bar is one of those. It's convienent to install only for track days and not in the way on the street, but it's not legal for drag racing (NHRA anyway).
BTW, a 5 point roll bar is NHRA legal up to 9.99 I believe. Then you have to go to a full cage. And, bolting is sometimes allowed, but welding is always going to be better/stronger.
I have an 8 point weld in from Wolfe. mild steel.
i had it jig notched and was very impressed with how accuract they did it. install was plug and play, just put it together and welded it in, everything was where it was supposed to be.
i had it jig notched and was very impressed with how accuract they did it. install was plug and play, just put it together and welded it in, everything was where it was supposed to be.
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From: Stuart Fl
Originally Posted by Coach 02 A3 Z/28
1. Is one way to go.
2. Both
3. Weld in
4. 6 point. You will need a 10 point if you go faster than 10.00
5. Above
6. For the times your talking about running you need a weld in.
7. Yes
8. Increse just alittle bit.
9. Convenience only. I have both and I never use them.
10. No big deal. If I had it to do again. I wouldn't get them.
11. It is illegal
12. jig notching is for the welding in the cage
13. Call Madman and he will hook ya up. Tell him Coach sent ya. 281-290-8899
Coach
2. Both
3. Weld in
4. 6 point. You will need a 10 point if you go faster than 10.00
5. Above
6. For the times your talking about running you need a weld in.
7. Yes
8. Increse just alittle bit.
9. Convenience only. I have both and I never use them.
10. No big deal. If I had it to do again. I wouldn't get them.
11. It is illegal
12. jig notching is for the welding in the cage
13. Call Madman and he will hook ya up. Tell him Coach sent ya. 281-290-8899
Coach
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From: Houston, TX
SilverGhost: I didnt see anywhere where they offered an 8 point, I assume thats the 6 point with the 4130 chromoly subframe down bars?
1fastWS6: Why would you want to remove the center bar anyway, the area behind the front seats are useless once a rollbar/cage is installed. Does anyone know if the Wolfe rollbars/cages are designed for drag racing? Lastly, I thought you had to have a 10 point when you break the 10.00.
Well, I think Im gonna go with a weld-in for legality issues and because its cheaper. The bolt-in is going to require welding anyway, so might as well get a weld-in.
13. Should I spend the extra money and get it jig notched?
14. By the way, what is jig notching anyway?
15. I didnt see in the options under weld-in for dual swing outs...in the bolt-in section, it says per door, but in the weld-in it doesnt. Is both doors offered in the weld-in?
1fastWS6: Why would you want to remove the center bar anyway, the area behind the front seats are useless once a rollbar/cage is installed. Does anyone know if the Wolfe rollbars/cages are designed for drag racing? Lastly, I thought you had to have a 10 point when you break the 10.00.
Well, I think Im gonna go with a weld-in for legality issues and because its cheaper. The bolt-in is going to require welding anyway, so might as well get a weld-in.
13. Should I spend the extra money and get it jig notched?
14. By the way, what is jig notching anyway?
15. I didnt see in the options under weld-in for dual swing outs...in the bolt-in section, it says per door, but in the weld-in it doesnt. Is both doors offered in the weld-in?
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here read this off of wolfe's page. it has answers to alot of your questions.
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/faq.aspx
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/faq.aspx
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From: Houston, TX
I did some reading on Wolfe's website and answered most of my own questions, but it looks like you beat me to posting about reading up on their site. LOL Anyhow, Ive come up with a couple more.
16. Are the standard door bars fairly easy to get in and out of? I saw a pic of them and they have a slant to them, as opposed to the straight style they offer for no additional charge. If I got the slant standard bars, is there any reason to get the swing outs? As mentioned, I saw a pic of the slanted style and they dont look too bad, so I was thinking of doing away with the swing outs, what do you think?
I think Im gonna go with the jig notching. Im sure the additional $100 is worth it.
17. I figured out what over the seat rear bars option is, do you recommend getting this? It says you have to drop the tank, I dont mind doing this. If I dont choose that option, do I have to cut holes in those panels where it would normally go?
Thanks.
16. Are the standard door bars fairly easy to get in and out of? I saw a pic of them and they have a slant to them, as opposed to the straight style they offer for no additional charge. If I got the slant standard bars, is there any reason to get the swing outs? As mentioned, I saw a pic of the slanted style and they dont look too bad, so I was thinking of doing away with the swing outs, what do you think?
I think Im gonna go with the jig notching. Im sure the additional $100 is worth it.
17. I figured out what over the seat rear bars option is, do you recommend getting this? It says you have to drop the tank, I dont mind doing this. If I dont choose that option, do I have to cut holes in those panels where it would normally go?
Thanks.
Thread Starter
9 Second Club NA
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From: Houston, TX
Im kinda having second thoughts on the weld-in, so I have some questions regarding the bolt-in:
18. Does the bolt-in require any welding whatsover beside if you want to make it NHRA legal?
19. Is it shipped in 1 whole piece?
20. Is the bolt-in one whole piece or does it come apart?
21. If its just 1 whole piece and doesnt come apart in any way, is it possible to get it in the car?
18. Does the bolt-in require any welding whatsover beside if you want to make it NHRA legal?
19. Is it shipped in 1 whole piece?
20. Is the bolt-in one whole piece or does it come apart?
21. If its just 1 whole piece and doesnt come apart in any way, is it possible to get it in the car?
The slanted bars are easier for me to get in and out of but I'm a big dude.
Bolt in does not require welding. Bolt-in is shipped in pieces. I think my friends was the main hoop, door bars and over seat bars all individual pieces.
Bolt in does not require welding. Bolt-in is shipped in pieces. I think my friends was the main hoop, door bars and over seat bars all individual pieces.
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From: Houston, TX
So if the bolt-in is shipped in pieces, then how do you assemble all the pieces together? That is why I asked if there was welding involved because I knew that it couldnt be shipped in one piece, and there has to be a way to secure the entire thing.
Im 6' 2", but Im not really worried about me getting in and out of the car easily, Im worried about a passenger when I do have one. Im sure if the bars were straight, then they would be much harder to get in and out of, but since they come standard slanted, then it makes it a lot easier. However, even though its slanted to help, Im wondering if I do need to get the swing out options.
Im 6' 2", but Im not really worried about me getting in and out of the car easily, Im worried about a passenger when I do have one. Im sure if the bars were straight, then they would be much harder to get in and out of, but since they come standard slanted, then it makes it a lot easier. However, even though its slanted to help, Im wondering if I do need to get the swing out options.
you bolt the cage together hence the name "bolt in". You could probably do good by getting the swing outs but you will probably get tired of taking the pin that holds it in place each time you get in and out. If you do get a weld in cage i would suggest you get the jig notched version, because you will probably end up saving money in the long run when you get it installed. it will be more labor for the installer to notch the tubes installing the cage, therefore rasing the cost of installation.
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From: Corona CA
Get Chromoly. Go 5-pt. Get it welded. Get removable door bar.
Then Get.
Reasoning:
Lighter.
A 6-pt ain't going to help in a collision unless you removed your door bars.
Should you actually crash, you need the added strength of the welded flanges.
You already have door bars. Monday thru Friday, it's hard to open your door with things in your hands and climb over the stupid bar.
You will be legal to 10.00.
Do it once. Do it right. But if you can run without the bar and it's a street car, avoid it. You will be seriously injured in a minor collision if you hit your head on the bar without a helmet. Wait for the New 11.50 rule to kick in, unless you are going to run quicker.
Then Get.
Reasoning:
Lighter.
A 6-pt ain't going to help in a collision unless you removed your door bars.
Should you actually crash, you need the added strength of the welded flanges.
You already have door bars. Monday thru Friday, it's hard to open your door with things in your hands and climb over the stupid bar.
You will be legal to 10.00.
Do it once. Do it right. But if you can run without the bar and it's a street car, avoid it. You will be seriously injured in a minor collision if you hit your head on the bar without a helmet. Wait for the New 11.50 rule to kick in, unless you are going to run quicker.
Last edited by McRat; Jun 24, 2004 at 09:19 PM.