jlrz28

iTrader: (7)

Would like to do something more to the suspension, currently here is what is done. Would like to put parts where its needed. Looking at getting rid of the poly bushings and going to rod end lcas. Any suggestions or what am I missing? Thanks

Front
Viking DA shocks with 300lb springs
removed the sway bar

Mid Car
Subframe connectors

Rear
BMR adjustable torque arm, still in stock location
BMR poly LCAS
BMR poly panhard bar
Spohn drag bar
Qa1 SA shocks

Firebirdmuscle

iTrader: (16)

MWC k member would save a good amount of weight off the front

ElkySS

iTrader: (6)

Torque arm relocation would be a good idea. I'd be scared running those times with it still bolted to the trans.

jhshnh

Agreed.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I also would suggest getting the tq arm off the transmission. bad design from the factory there.

After that, start looking for a good front end package. Several out there to choose from, just get something that doesn't have adjustment "slots" for the lower control arms or you will fight keeping it aligned forever.... need a hole and hole only. Or if you do end up with the slotted style, get some steel washers 3/16 thick made up and before you align it, take all the paint/powder off where the control arms bolt in... put the washers in so after alignment you can weld them to the K member and never have to worry about the alignment going to hell cause a bolt slid in the slot.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

As stated above, I would do either a relocation crossmember or a short style torque arm, such as the TA012 or TPU001. You will want the torque arm off that tailshaft either way. The next step would be taking weight off the front end in the form of a tubular k member and a-arms. For information on just how much you can save off the front you can look here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...nceptions.html

jlrz28

iTrader: (7)

I have one more adjustment hole down on the lca mount to the rear end. I finished pulling the dash and removing the ac and duct work. Just got my vfn hood installed. So between those two I hope to have shed some weight off the front. I will look into getting the torque arm off the trans also. I always look at the k members but just some things about them bother me compared to the oem piece.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Once you use a tubular K, you won't want to go back. The weight savings is a big plus, but the room is opens up to work around is huge as well

gesto

Do you know which vendors offer these without adjustment slots? Thanks!

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I know the Burkhart one does not have slots. I have this one personally. I believe the Midwest one, or at least one version of his also does not have slots, I can not speak for the others if they offer one without the slots. I have however welded the washers I speak of on Spohn, Bmr and Pa k members over the years for people.

SteenH

Sorry for hopping in.. What's the consensus on slot vs hole K-member with stock A arms? Thanks in advance

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Can't use a stock a arm with any other than a slot, it's the only way to have adjustment. I would never go to the trouble of swapping the k without doing the a arms too. My .02

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Nothing wrong with a good tubular K-Member. They have been around on street driven vehicle for a very long time.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

We offer a K-member with holes for our two piece a-arms and slotted for our one piece a-arms or for stock a-arms. I do want to add I have never had a customer complain about keeping a slotted K-member in alignment.

With any aftermarket part from any manufacturer it is a good practice to check bolts on a regular basis. This is something that is not discussed enough and over looked.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

You are not going to get any alignment with stock a-arms and a holes K-member. Our holes K-Member is designed for our two piece a-arm how ever it is also designed for a narrower wheel not a wider stock wheel.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

Just because it is there doesn't always mean you will need it, to much angle up towards the body could make it worse for you. Of course this is why one should test, test, and do more testing keep track of what the changes do.

Sadly track conditions are never the same and what worked one day as far as settings may not work the next time out.

Heyfred

iTrader: (10)

Scale and corner balance the car.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Fwiw the issues with skits I've seen is the washers slipping on the powder coat. Usually anpothole or wheelstand that does it.

Steel washers welded on stops all that forever once a good alignment is done

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

No issues on my slotted k mmber though I dont drive the car much. One thing I did do was go back and re-tighten the arm bolts tighter then what the alignment guy did, heard that was good insurance.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

It absolutely is.

Long as you don't 12 o-clock the car, or hit any pot holes you'll likely be ok. Most of the guys I've had to weld up have done one or the other.