I'm looking at new suspension mods to lower the 60'.
Currently running a Full Weight 02 Camaro. Everything in the rear is tubular with LCA relocation brackets. Torque arm is tubular but still on the trans. Running Competition Engineering 3 way adjustable rear shocks with stock springs.
Has weld-in subframe connectors. Stock front everything.
Car has headers, SLP intake, 3600 stall, and that's about it.

I've done a best of 8.30's with a 1.83 60' on very bald BFG Sport comp 245's at a no prep event. Not a terrible 60' given the conditions but id really like to see it drop!

I plan on removing the simple stuff (spare tire, back seats, front sway bar) and am wondering what would be the most beneficial for my next mod.

I'm looking at either the strange single adjustable front shocks, a torque arm relocation, or any good ideas you guys might have to share. What can help me lower my 60' the most for less than 4 or 5 hundred bucks?

 

If your dead hooking a 1.8x 60 your going to need more power or a bigger stall.

If you were spinning a 1.8x 60 your goal is simple. BUY NEW DRAG RADIALS !

 

I actually have a set of drag radials. I have nt05r's on a separate set of wheels but I haven't got around to running them anywhere.

The thing is, I typically run at no-prep events in "hard tire" or "street tire" where drag radials aren't allowed. Its the only class for me to be anywhere near competitive in, and I really only ever run for fun, so, I'm trying everything I can to drop the 60' without upping the ante with a better tire.

 

Oh OK gotcha

 

Pull the front sway bar. That should help transfer the weight better.

A light weight battery will help get weight off the nose.

What 3600 stall do you have ?

 

The easy stuff:
Better tires (Mickey Thompson drag radials)
Better shocks (Viking double adjustable all the way around - Properly adjusted!)
Remove the front sway bar if you haven't already
Skinny tires up front if you have not done it already
Add some timing below the stall flash RPM to make the engine rev quicker and hit the stall harder
Experiment with launch RPM

More serious stuff:
4000-4500 stall
More engine power
Weight reduction
trans-brake

 

The vikings look like a nice piece, but the strange singles look like the best bang for the buck. Sway bar will be coming off. Skinnies aren't really in the budget if i get shocks as well...which do you think would be more beneficial?

Sounds like weight is going to be key. I know there's a sticky for weight reduction I might have to give that another read. Other than the front sway bar, what would be best for nose weight? Keep in mind this is a daily driven car that will need to keep AC, bumper support, washer fluid, and cruise control.

Thanks for all the quick replies guys!

 

Strange makes an excellent product, but I highly recommend double adjustable. If it were me, I would probably do the shocks first. Job 1 is consistently hooking the car to the track, then you can try to reduce weight and roll resistance.

 

Torque arm off trans and adjustable front shocks. I went adjustable tq arm before shocks just for sake of getting it off the trans.

 

98, could you say which gave you more of a gain in the 60'?

 

I did my car from rear to front! All MWC stuff, when I did the front end, k member, lower control arms, strange shocks up front and manual rack it totally changed the way the car reacted and launched! Front end came up and transfered and stayed transfered!

 

I would suggest front shocks as well, like mentioning it is always best to run double adjustable but before Viking came out with the great priced double adjustable I sold nothing but Strange Single adjustable for years.

If that is what your budget allows you can get the job done with single adjustable front shocks.

I have sold thousands of this combination.
Front Shocks
Front Springs

 

I just made this decision so no results yet.

I think a lot of people say the better performance gain is in shocks I just wanted the extra safety of not having to worry about braking a tail shaft housing.

 

How do the strange singles ride on the street? This car will probably see 5k miles a summer or more

 

Any updates ?

 

Not as of right now. I live in iowa so there's no racing to he had right now.

I also found a killer deal on a pickup, I didn't really need the pickup, but I couldn't pass on the deal so the suspension budget got reappropriated.

As race season moves closer and I start to work on the car again I'll keep this thread updated.

 

Viking or menscer? ive been looking at both.

and +1 for MWC stuff.

 

If I go double adjustable, I will probably end up going with Viking through MWC. Menscer stuff looks really nice but the price tag definitely gives some sticker shock.

 

Battery relocation if you haven't done so already. Takes about 36 pounds off the front of the car and that's nearly as good as a complete K-member.
Parts List:
20' of 2 gage wire from Home Depot/ Lowes....$22.00
Plastic latching Tool Box/ Batter Box from HD...$7.00
Battery side post Studs from Autozone ...........$2.00
Assorted copper eyelet crimp on ends.............$2.00
10' of 3/8 fuel line from Autozone .................$12.00


And that's about it.
I mounted mine in the back hatch bottom, some guys do the spare tire location but I have plans for that space later on so the bottom of the hatch area had to be the spot. You'll need to set the battery box in place and screw it down so you don't get it sliding all over the place. This will let you pre-measure all of your hose and wire lengths also. Next take the 2 gage wire and route it from the front battery location down under the car and back to the spare tire location. There is a rubber grommet that you can slice with a razor and run the cable up into the car. The slice can be decent sized cause you will also be running the (2) 3/8 fuel lines out at that location for the battery box ventilation. Tracks require it incase of battery explosion, etc.
Set your battery in the box and cut the cable so you have some slack, trust me its easier if you have some give, after that go ahead and crimp the correct sized copper eyelets onto the wire so that the battery power cable at the front of the car can be bolted to it ( and then wrapped profusely with electric tap) and the cable end at the new battery location can be bolted to the battery with the new battery studs.
Now your going to have about 4'-5' of leftover cable and this will be your new battery Negative cable. Crimp the eyelets onto both ends of this and hook one to the battery and route the other back through the rubber grommet under the car. VERY close to that point is the stock exhaust hanger mounting location which makes a perfect spot to bolt the battery negative cable to for your new ground point!
NOW take the time to unhook all of those points and get a soldering torch and solder those ends to the cables!!!! Your car will shake those connections loose and leave you stranded somewhere when it really is not ideal if you do not do this step!! Trust me.
Next get a drill and put 2 holes in the battery box, one on each side of the top of the box. Now you can route the 3/8 fuel line from each side down and out through the grommet. I'll let you decide if you want to drill your inside plastic or just run it under it. The importance of the 2 lines is so that the box can breathe and dispel any fumes which is required at stingy tracks if your doing that sorta racing.
Total Cost : $45.00 Probably the easiest and cheapest weight mod you can do.

 

I kind of like this idea then running a small battery up front !