turbo set up
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turbo set up I have a 2009 ls aluminum block 5.3. Me and a buddy was talking and I'm trying to figure out which would be the best route. Stick with the 5.3 and just put forged internals in it or stroke it to a 383 with forged internals. It will be in a 4x4 truck that will be running 300ft straight track drag race, with a single turbo set up that will be 88mm or larger, running 15-25 psi if the block will hold it. Plan on getting 1000+ horsepower. Any help will be greatly appreciated!
-LSyota#1
-LSyota#1
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From: Mississippi
Someone with turbo knowledge please help us out.... So we can get this build rolling. We need some great advice. Kinda hard for me to do so coming from the all motor camp.
Stevieturbo, ls1nova, Joe Nova, Forcefed ... my big dogs in the turbo section chime in 
Need a few more details to be helpful. Weight? Do you need it “streetable”? Can you run methanol? Filled blocks etc? Budget? 1000+? Is that Wheel HP? Crank HP? Does the + indicate 1200? 1300… It all makes a big difference.
Stock crank is good for around 1200 chp before it starts flexing. Some get away with more, but the crank flexes around that point so you are on borrowed time. Only running it 300ft you will be able to get away with more depending on weight. Adding bore/stroke will weaken the block. That’s the last thing you want to do with a stock block IMO.
Really there isn’t a huge advantage going with aftermarket parts on stock block. There’s a lot of time/money involved with machining/assembly. And it’s pretty much a wash for survival at those levels. IMO I’d stick with a 100% stock short block. Don’t touch the thing. Stock hardware and all. You can even run the factory 799/243 head.
If you plan on staying around 1200 crank and under with good fuel/tune you should be able to handle a lot of 300ft passes at huge boost. Then if a short block lets go, slap in another cheap and go. Spend your money on good supporting parts and treat the engine is disposable.
If you want more than 1200 crank you should buy a more capable aftermarket block to go along with forged internals. (or go BBC).
Stock crank is good for around 1200 chp before it starts flexing. Some get away with more, but the crank flexes around that point so you are on borrowed time. Only running it 300ft you will be able to get away with more depending on weight. Adding bore/stroke will weaken the block. That’s the last thing you want to do with a stock block IMO.
Really there isn’t a huge advantage going with aftermarket parts on stock block. There’s a lot of time/money involved with machining/assembly. And it’s pretty much a wash for survival at those levels. IMO I’d stick with a 100% stock short block. Don’t touch the thing. Stock hardware and all. You can even run the factory 799/243 head.
If you plan on staying around 1200 crank and under with good fuel/tune you should be able to handle a lot of 300ft passes at huge boost. Then if a short block lets go, slap in another cheap and go. Spend your money on good supporting parts and treat the engine is disposable.
If you want more than 1200 crank you should buy a more capable aftermarket block to go along with forged internals. (or go BBC).
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Truck weight should be around 3000 pounds. 1000-1200 to the crank would be fine. We thought about running the 799/243s and having them ported and polished. The truck will be track only. Thank you for your information, it is greatly appreciated!
That’s pretty reasonable then. are you wanting fuel injection or a Carb? Cam, LS9 HG’s, ARP Studs, springs on a Single T6 S484 with a good intercooler should do it around 20-25 lbs. Even with untouched 799/243’s. Leave the rotating assy alone IMO.
If you can run methanol you can ditch the intercooler and it’s a super forgiving fuel tune wise. Probably not necessary for your goals though and meth has it’s disadvantages too. I’d suggest some ignite 112 or similar ethanol based drum race fuel. The inconsistencies of ethanol percentages at the pumps can be a pain, esp at big power levels. The base fuel they mix it from can also be junk. You’re better off knowing whats in the tank at all times at those power levels. If it's a trailer/track car only, filling the block would help it last... Even a half fill.
The cam will depend on the gearing, RPM, and intake you plan on running. Better off contacting a vendor there, I’m not very familiar with your style of racing and what’s needed cam wise.
If you can run methanol you can ditch the intercooler and it’s a super forgiving fuel tune wise. Probably not necessary for your goals though and meth has it’s disadvantages too. I’d suggest some ignite 112 or similar ethanol based drum race fuel. The inconsistencies of ethanol percentages at the pumps can be a pain, esp at big power levels. The base fuel they mix it from can also be junk. You’re better off knowing whats in the tank at all times at those power levels. If it's a trailer/track car only, filling the block would help it last... Even a half fill.
The cam will depend on the gearing, RPM, and intake you plan on running. Better off contacting a vendor there, I’m not very familiar with your style of racing and what’s needed cam wise.
Last edited by Forcefed86; Mar 27, 2017 at 03:13 PM.
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Plan on going fuel injected with maybe a Trail Blazer ss intake ported. But I don't have to run the motor for longer than 3-5 minutes at a time. What size turbo are y'all thinking? Will be running with a powerglide transmission with trans break. Maybe 4500-5000 stall. Would a water/meth system help on this any?
Will this be in an environment where the engine/rad/IC has mud/dirt slung around on it constantly?
Depending on your budget I’d probably go with the newest version of Forced Inductions S476 with the T6 1.32 housing and large 96mm exh wheel. It will spool up more quickly than the larger 80-88mm compressor turbos. Stock48 made over 1200hp at the wheels with one on a 6.0. So it will make plenty of power on a 5.3. You will be under a load such a short time you want the turbo “all in” fast. If you call forced inductions and tell Jose the application, he will set you up with a nice turbo.
You’ll want to gear it super short so you can get the RPM up around 7k by the time you hit the finish line. Once you know the gearing, tire size, and cam… call up PTC and get the 9.5” converter spec’d for that combo of parts. Don’t skimp on the converter… PTC has the turbo converters down pat and they can setup up the spacing so they are a drop in deal on a glide/LS.
If going EFI, I’d run the plug and play MS3 ECU Goldbox from EFIsource. It has all the bells and whistles for racing and is easy to work with.
Water/meth kit isn’t needed, but they are always good insurance IMO. Water cools the combustion chamber a ton and keeps everything clean in there. I run a cheapie kit on every turbo car I build, don’t need anything fancy. 7gph nozzle, washer fluid, tank, and pump. The MS3 can control it. You can buy individual parts or the basic kit from “Devilsown” alky injection.
Depending on your budget I’d probably go with the newest version of Forced Inductions S476 with the T6 1.32 housing and large 96mm exh wheel. It will spool up more quickly than the larger 80-88mm compressor turbos. Stock48 made over 1200hp at the wheels with one on a 6.0. So it will make plenty of power on a 5.3. You will be under a load such a short time you want the turbo “all in” fast. If you call forced inductions and tell Jose the application, he will set you up with a nice turbo.
You’ll want to gear it super short so you can get the RPM up around 7k by the time you hit the finish line. Once you know the gearing, tire size, and cam… call up PTC and get the 9.5” converter spec’d for that combo of parts. Don’t skimp on the converter… PTC has the turbo converters down pat and they can setup up the spacing so they are a drop in deal on a glide/LS.
If going EFI, I’d run the plug and play MS3 ECU Goldbox from EFIsource. It has all the bells and whistles for racing and is easy to work with.
Water/meth kit isn’t needed, but they are always good insurance IMO. Water cools the combustion chamber a ton and keeps everything clean in there. I run a cheapie kit on every turbo car I build, don’t need anything fancy. 7gph nozzle, washer fluid, tank, and pump. The MS3 can control it. You can buy individual parts or the basic kit from “Devilsown” alky injection.
There’s a lot of ways to approach it…
Reason I asked about dirt/mud is I figure things like A2A intercoolers/radiators would get plugged up. If that’s the case, the simplest option IMO would be a blow thru methanol carb setup with a filled block. You’d have no water/rad or intercooler to fart with. Just a straight shot into the carb. If you stuck with fuel injection methanol would still work really well, and be easier to tune. It’s just more expensive.
The TBSS style intake is the best OEM intake I’m aware of for what you’re doing. Ugly… but work really well. You'd need a drive by cable TB...
Reason I asked about dirt/mud is I figure things like A2A intercoolers/radiators would get plugged up. If that’s the case, the simplest option IMO would be a blow thru methanol carb setup with a filled block. You’d have no water/rad or intercooler to fart with. Just a straight shot into the carb. If you stuck with fuel injection methanol would still work really well, and be easier to tune. It’s just more expensive.
The TBSS style intake is the best OEM intake I’m aware of for what you’re doing. Ugly… but work really well. You'd need a drive by cable TB...
Ha, That's awesome! Is it class limited in anyway? Don't get me wrong I love the LS platform... but I'd think if you really wanted to beat up on the competition a simple forged BBC with any untouched aftermarket alum head and twin VSracing 78/75's would give you more bang for your buck. Blow thru carb on methanol... Filled block. 1400-1500whp all day.
I am right around 1000 crank going by weight and trap speed. I feel like I’m walking on glass every ¼ pass. I wish I would have just went BBC from the start, but its pricey to convert everything over at this point.
For such short blasts a larger motor would have its advantages I’d think. It’s fun to be the underdog with the baby JY motor as well. Either way it would be a blast, let us know how it goes.
For such short blasts a larger motor would have its advantages I’d think. It’s fun to be the underdog with the baby JY motor as well. Either way it would be a blast, let us know how it goes.
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There was a guy down under who did a bit of a mad 4x4 beast too, although havent seen him post much recently
You'll find more in the turbo/FI section of course
Hell...I recall must be over a decade ago, there was a guy wanting to LS a monster truck, although never did see the final outcome ?
You'll find more in the turbo/FI section of course
Hell...I recall must be over a decade ago, there was a guy wanting to LS a monster truck, although never did see the final outcome ?