HA! 
ABS questions.
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From: Houston, TX
ABS questions. 1. If I ordered my 12 bolt with no ABS, does that mean that I wont have ABS in the rear, or no ABS whatsoever?
2. If I have no ABS whatsoever, can ABS be removed completely since it wont be in use and it will be extra weight?
3. Can you drive on the street with no ABS? If so, how is it?
4. How do I remove ABS?
5. Does ABS affect braking power and can my stock braking setup function without ABS?
6. What are the weight savings from just removing ABS?
Reason Im bringing this up is because Im going to order my 12 bolt with a spool and I it doesnt come with ABS when you order it with a spool. So I was curious about the whole ABS issue. Thanks.
2. If I have no ABS whatsoever, can ABS be removed completely since it wont be in use and it will be extra weight?
3. Can you drive on the street with no ABS? If so, how is it?
4. How do I remove ABS?
5. Does ABS affect braking power and can my stock braking setup function without ABS?
6. What are the weight savings from just removing ABS?
Reason Im bringing this up is because Im going to order my 12 bolt with a spool and I it doesnt come with ABS when you order it with a spool. So I was curious about the whole ABS issue. Thanks.
1. no abs whatsoever
2. yes
3. yes, its all a matter of opinion. you probably wont miss it unless you drive in the rain or have to make emergency stops.
4. use the earch, that info is out there somewhere
5. not sure
6. not much, a few pounds i believe it is
hope this helps, someone correct me if im wrong
2. yes
3. yes, its all a matter of opinion. you probably wont miss it unless you drive in the rain or have to make emergency stops.
4. use the earch, that info is out there somewhere
5. not sure
6. not much, a few pounds i believe it is
hope this helps, someone correct me if im wrong
You are correct on your statements.
If ABS removed it will not effect normal braking. People drive around all the time with the ABS light on, even we do it due to the fact that one of the teeth got broken off of the rear reluctor and i havent changed it out yet. It does not have any effect on normal braking as long as when remove the abs unit, you by-pass it correctly and dont leave any air in the system.
As far as removing it, a few companies make abs delete plates and others just bought fittings, like said above to a search and you will be able to find exact answers to ways people have done it and some pictures as well.
If ABS removed it will not effect normal braking. People drive around all the time with the ABS light on, even we do it due to the fact that one of the teeth got broken off of the rear reluctor and i havent changed it out yet. It does not have any effect on normal braking as long as when remove the abs unit, you by-pass it correctly and dont leave any air in the system.
As far as removing it, a few companies make abs delete plates and others just bought fittings, like said above to a search and you will be able to find exact answers to ways people have done it and some pictures as well.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: H-town
accually if you plan on running skinnys up front and slicks in the back, your better off removeing ABS anyways. due to the fact that they are different diamaters and the fact that slicks balloon up at the top end of the track, the ABS will usually kick in when you are trying to slow down at the end of the quarter. it thinks you are looseing traction when you are not. this in turn makes it harder to stop since the ABS is pushing the pedal back up towards you. since my car still has ABS i usually just pull the fuse. i will get rid of it completely someday.
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From: Houston, TX
CamaroCain: What are ABS plates? Fittings for what?
taqwache: The only wheels and tires I have for the car now are Bogarts, ET Streets, and skinnies. I sold the street wheels and tires for it a long time ago. I have experienced the trouble with my wheel/tire setup with ABS. It seems as ABS is figting me causing my braking power to be weak. I want to remove ABS. I plan on doing lightweight brakes down the road when the funds are available, but for now, I just want to remove ABS completely. I want to know how to do this the correct way without rigging anything up. Thanks.
By the way, are there any write ups on how to remove ABS? I like to have instructions because it makes things on me a whole lot easier, plus it makes me feel a lot more comfortable doing something I havent done before.
taqwache: The only wheels and tires I have for the car now are Bogarts, ET Streets, and skinnies. I sold the street wheels and tires for it a long time ago. I have experienced the trouble with my wheel/tire setup with ABS. It seems as ABS is figting me causing my braking power to be weak. I want to remove ABS. I plan on doing lightweight brakes down the road when the funds are available, but for now, I just want to remove ABS completely. I want to know how to do this the correct way without rigging anything up. Thanks.
By the way, are there any write ups on how to remove ABS? I like to have instructions because it makes things on me a whole lot easier, plus it makes me feel a lot more comfortable doing something I havent done before.
Well if you completely remove the abs, that means you removed the big abs unit from under the hood that all the brake lines go in before going to the wheels. there are 4 lines going into the top of it, they (billingley---->) that i think you can put all your stock lines into, but most people get fittings to tie the lines together. I have not performed any of this so i am no certain of sizes, but there are a lot of people that have done it, just do a search for ABS.
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From: Houston, TX
I did a search on ABS, but didnt come up with anything as far as answering the questions I have. I looked at the ABS delete block on Billingsley, but I just cant see paying $150 for a block of aluminum. There has to be a cheaper alternative. I wanted to get rid of that big stock unit and bracket as well. I want to remove ABS completely because I dont need it anymore, I want to clean up the engine bay, and I want to remove weight.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Downers Grove,IL
Do a search in the handling/braking forum. Myself and Larry posted part numbers for hydraulic compression fittings. I used Mcmaster.com for my supplier. They are SS fittings with working pressures well over 3000 psi. Just cut the flared ends off and re-attach with the fittings and then bleed the lines of course. It makes for a very neat and clean install IMO.
Here's how I did mine-
Here's how I did mine-
Thread Starter
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From: Houston, TX
I still wanna be able to use my SLP line lock, is that going to be possible? If so, how will I do it and what more will I need? What else am I going to need besides all these fittings? Anyway I could get a list of what I would need while still using my line lock? Thanks.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Downers Grove,IL
Just put the line lock before the compression T- connection on the front brakes. Very simple and only need a couple more fittings. If this seems complicated to you , then you might be better off shelling out for the Billingsley Block as that should workout just like your present setup.
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From: Houston, TX
This is a little complicated for me, thats why Im trying to get as much info as possible. 
I want to get rid of it all, not have to put another block in, plus I want that big bracket out of there. In the pics, is the stainless steel braided line in the pics the factory hoses, or did you buy those? I just want to make sure that I order the right pieces and the correct amount. Thanks.
I want to get rid of it all, not have to put another block in, plus I want that big bracket out of there. In the pics, is the stainless steel braided line in the pics the factory hoses, or did you buy those? I just want to make sure that I order the right pieces and the correct amount. Thanks.