racer442olds

iTrader: (2)

Whats everyone's preference for Engine Oil? This is a raced only car. 12:1 Compression, made 672HP on engine dyno. Break in and dyno sessions were done with Rotella 15W40. I always ran VR1 20W50 in my Olds engine that had a flat tappet cam.

Nathaninwa

Oil threads can get tricky! My experience has been talk with the guy that setup the bearing clearances. Pressure is not the same as flow

That said, my ls3 was setup to run 5w/30. I use Joe Gibbs LS30, it seems to have a nice additive package

Steve Emmons

I have always had good luck running Rotella 15-40. No engine noise and it is made to withstand heat and stress. Plus you can't beat the price.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

I agree, go with the person who built the motor. In my case the builder highly recommends VR1 20w50

Nostang

iTrader: (4)

As said above, see what the engine builder recommends with the bearing clearances you are running. For oil, I recommend Brad Penn Green oil.

jlrz28

iTrader: (7)

10-40 xpr

tberg725

says 10-30 on the cap so I run 10-30, ran mobil 1 full syn

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Another vote for Rotella here.

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

Vr1 20w50

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

15-50 M1 for the road course engine.

TTur1996

We run Brad Penn 20w50. Have never had any failures due to oil.

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

I always run VR1 20w50 in my older gens sbc and bbc up to 1200hp.
I now run Valvolene 5w-40 in my turbo 370".

WV Z06

Don't think you can go wrong with VR-1 if you get it in a weight that works with your clearances. It's a good oil at a pretty good price.

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

I don't quite understand the infatuation with all the guys who run Rotella. It is an oil designed to be used in heavy duty diesel engines and has additives for that specific purpose that don't translate to anything beneficial in a gas/methanol/ethanol performance motor. Anyway.......just giving my 2 cents, not looking to discus or argue about it.

My personal preference is this:

I always break in on Valvoline VR1 20w-50 (remember oil weight should be advised by your builder as it kind of depends on the bearing clearances he chooses to run). I'll change the filter and oil after the first start up and go a make a couple hits on the track/street then switch to Royal Purple XPR 20w-50, which is a full synthetic. I run an ls motor and use a factory truck pan and use 6 quarts of oil.

I've got a fresh motor going in my race truck here pretty soon and my engine builder wants me to try something a little different as he feels it'll be worth some power. Once I get to the point of using the Royal Purple XPR 20w-50, he wants me to switch and run 5 quarts of a zero weight Mobil One full synthetic and 1 quart of Formula TX7.

Based on his own dyno testing, he thinks that my combo could easily pick up 20-30 horsepower. I was already changing oil after every 10-15 hits, but he is telling me that if I decide to switch to this new concoction of Mobil One/Formula TX7 (especially switching to running on methanol), he would like to see me making no more than 5-10 hits between changes, depending on how hot I can keep the oil between rounds to help burn off the methanol that contaminates the oil.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Probably because companies like Comp recommended it in all their high HP street cars at one time. It used to have a higher zinc content which did make it a good choice for gas engines and BITGO also had it ranked higher than some of the "superior" oils out there in the sheer testing.