Shaving weight
#1
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Shaving weight
So I want to reduce the weight to get my car down the track as fast as I can but also would like to retain the stock appearance of my car so I am looking for ideas
#3
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I got mine under 3k pounds with full interior, full exhaust, and 18" wheels. Its all detailed here. Skip to page 5 for weight reduction stuff....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/multimedi...pics-vids.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/multimedi...pics-vids.html
#4
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Some of the things I did I will outline below. My car looks stock,handles well,has a working radio,all air bags,AC,PS,all sway bars on,full interior and can be driven anywhere. Some of this stuff is not cost effective though. I run mid to high tens and trap 122-124 with the old mods on pump gas.
V6 front sway bar. I hated the way the car felt with no bar on the front. Lighter than the stock one.
Titanium wheel lugs. Much lighter than the stock ones. In fact one stock one is as heavy as all of them
Titanium fasteners for the hood,coil packs,engine parts etc
Lithium battery.
Carbon fiber drive shaft
LS6/Truck MAF is lighter than the stock one. You will need to change the value in your tune.
Improved racing oil pan baffle. Almost 2 pounds lighter than the stock one. Can not be seen
Cut out the front fender supports
Doors have bars that can be cut or removed. I have not done that and not sure I will
Most fbody catbacks are very heavy. Make your own with a small muffler. Knocked 25 pounds over a SLP dual dual and flows way better.
2000-2002 wheels. Yes they are ugly. But they are the lightest stock wheel. Hoosier drag radials are lighter than Mickey's by pounds. I haven't used mine yet
Eradaspeed front rotors. Don't bother doing the rears they are the same weight as stock. You cn also convert to LT1 brake in the rear if you don't have traction control.
My car doesn't have the speakers in the rear hatch area. Try to find this set up in a wrecked V6 car. Also remove that plastic crap below the rear carpeting
Lighten your coil pack trays and repaint them
Same for the hood hinges and backing plates on the rear.
BMR Chromemoly lower control arms. I got the special bushings in these but can't recall the name. They work and ride great on the street in fact the same as my 1le stockers. Nice weight savings
UMI rear panhard rod. Lighter than stock
Coil overs front and rear will lose weight. I have the fronts only. I am not too happy with the Vikings however.
Kmember and upper lower arms. I went BMR. Very happy with them and ride is nice. The MWC ones are even lighter. Any weight off the front is win win.
ATI balancer. I don't have this yet.
Get rid of the tensioner on the front and run a cheap skinny belt. BMR alternator bracket is lighter than stock and with some fighting can work with ac and ps.
Turn one PS pump with billet wheel. Worth a little power and the billet wheel is lighter too plus it makes access easier
Titanium keepers in the valve train
Newer LS starter. Couple pounds lighter and smaller body.
MWC Bumper supports. Front and rear. Lightest ones on market
MWC Chrome moly transmission cross member brace. I don't think you can get these anymore. But it was light and no one can spot it. You could try and lighten the stock one by holesaw and repaint
Billet converter for autos
Light weight hood. I run a SS hood which knocked a pound off. However the after market SS hood and wings are lighter than stock
Optic Armor windshield. Have not done this yet and not sure I will. Since I live in Florida I need the rear defroster so can't do the rear. But both of those are hard to spot. I heard complaints on visibility for the front.
There is other stuff I am probably forgetting
V6 front sway bar. I hated the way the car felt with no bar on the front. Lighter than the stock one.
Titanium wheel lugs. Much lighter than the stock ones. In fact one stock one is as heavy as all of them
Titanium fasteners for the hood,coil packs,engine parts etc
Lithium battery.
Carbon fiber drive shaft
LS6/Truck MAF is lighter than the stock one. You will need to change the value in your tune.
Improved racing oil pan baffle. Almost 2 pounds lighter than the stock one. Can not be seen
Cut out the front fender supports
Doors have bars that can be cut or removed. I have not done that and not sure I will
Most fbody catbacks are very heavy. Make your own with a small muffler. Knocked 25 pounds over a SLP dual dual and flows way better.
2000-2002 wheels. Yes they are ugly. But they are the lightest stock wheel. Hoosier drag radials are lighter than Mickey's by pounds. I haven't used mine yet
Eradaspeed front rotors. Don't bother doing the rears they are the same weight as stock. You cn also convert to LT1 brake in the rear if you don't have traction control.
My car doesn't have the speakers in the rear hatch area. Try to find this set up in a wrecked V6 car. Also remove that plastic crap below the rear carpeting
Lighten your coil pack trays and repaint them
Same for the hood hinges and backing plates on the rear.
BMR Chromemoly lower control arms. I got the special bushings in these but can't recall the name. They work and ride great on the street in fact the same as my 1le stockers. Nice weight savings
UMI rear panhard rod. Lighter than stock
Coil overs front and rear will lose weight. I have the fronts only. I am not too happy with the Vikings however.
Kmember and upper lower arms. I went BMR. Very happy with them and ride is nice. The MWC ones are even lighter. Any weight off the front is win win.
ATI balancer. I don't have this yet.
Get rid of the tensioner on the front and run a cheap skinny belt. BMR alternator bracket is lighter than stock and with some fighting can work with ac and ps.
Turn one PS pump with billet wheel. Worth a little power and the billet wheel is lighter too plus it makes access easier
Titanium keepers in the valve train
Newer LS starter. Couple pounds lighter and smaller body.
MWC Bumper supports. Front and rear. Lightest ones on market
MWC Chrome moly transmission cross member brace. I don't think you can get these anymore. But it was light and no one can spot it. You could try and lighten the stock one by holesaw and repaint
Billet converter for autos
Light weight hood. I run a SS hood which knocked a pound off. However the after market SS hood and wings are lighter than stock
Optic Armor windshield. Have not done this yet and not sure I will. Since I live in Florida I need the rear defroster so can't do the rear. But both of those are hard to spot. I heard complaints on visibility for the front.
There is other stuff I am probably forgetting
Last edited by Mike Morris; 07-20-2017 at 07:49 PM.
#5
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^^ Nice lists ^^
I don't have the tubular bumper supports, but I did convert to tubular spindles and run the strange drag brakes. That's 70 pounds of the front easy, AND its all UNSPRUNG weight. So that's worth adding to the list.
Lithium battery knock another 30 off
Another trick, rear coilovers, if they are built for it, invert them. This reduces unsprung weight as well.
Really, it isn't that difficult to drop a couple hundred pounds
If you really want to get extreme...
Carbon fiber roof and ditch the T-top.
If you end up building another rear axle, fabbed 9" with aluminum center, lightened gears, rifle drilled axles, strange or aerospace brakes
Manual steering
Dumped exhaust
I don't have the tubular bumper supports, but I did convert to tubular spindles and run the strange drag brakes. That's 70 pounds of the front easy, AND its all UNSPRUNG weight. So that's worth adding to the list.
Lithium battery knock another 30 off
Another trick, rear coilovers, if they are built for it, invert them. This reduces unsprung weight as well.
Really, it isn't that difficult to drop a couple hundred pounds
If you really want to get extreme...
Carbon fiber roof and ditch the T-top.
If you end up building another rear axle, fabbed 9" with aluminum center, lightened gears, rifle drilled axles, strange or aerospace brakes
Manual steering
Dumped exhaust
#6
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
thanks for the responses guys definatly some things to do with the tubular suspension, sense the car is pretty much daily driven when the days are nice in the summer deleting the a/c is a no go lol