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Nitto Drag Radial Not Hooking

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Old 08-20-2017, 11:08 AM
  #21  
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The answer to running radials with a manual is proper use of a clutch buffer. No need to use bias slicks to get consistency. Some are able to buffer the clutch using their foot, but it takes a lot of practice. Here's a list of alternatives to using your foot-
http://magnusmotorsports.com/product...ontrol-device/
http://tiltonracing.com/wp-content/u...trol-Valve.pdf
http://www.clutchmasters.com/content/FCV2000diagram.pdf
http://ClutchTamer.com

You will get the most benefit from using a clutch buffer to match the hit of the clutch to the engine's power. Using it to chase track conditions is setting yourself up for frustration.

Here's the difference-
...When matching the clutch to the engine, the tires stay dead hooked and the clutch slips to control bog. The buffer is used to force the clutch to slip longer than it wants to by temporarily withholding some clamp pressure. It's basically a timed event that doesn't vary much with conditions. Since this scenario keeps the tires dead hooked, it's radial friendly.
...When matching the clutch to the conditions, the buffer is used to adjust the hit of the clutch with the goal of hitting the tires hard enough to make them spin just the right amount to control bog. Basically trying to walk the fine line between too much spin or not enough. Missing it either way can have a huge effect on power production.

Guess which method places less stress on transmissions and axles.

Grant
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Old 08-20-2017, 05:35 PM
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When you slip the clutch instead of a tire on a street car it gets expensive real quick
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Old 08-20-2017, 05:51 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by AINT SKEERED
When you slip the clutch instead of a tire on a street car it gets expensive real quick
AINT that the truth! I wonder how many clutches all of us went thru .
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Old 08-20-2017, 09:16 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by AINT SKEERED
When you slip the clutch instead of a tire on a street car it gets expensive real quick
Sssshhhhh, common sense has no place in his point.
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Old 08-20-2017, 09:59 PM
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Big suprise nittos not hooking. I have the same problem 4.10 gears 6spd and i cant hook either. Im gona go witb a 15" rim and get a set of bias for the track and 17" skinnies up front
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Old 08-20-2017, 10:02 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by andrewss
AINT that the truth! I wonder how many clutches all of us went thru .
Last time my Transmission went out I burned up 14 clutches lol ( A4 joke )
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Old 08-21-2017, 10:41 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by AINT SKEERED
When you slip the clutch instead of a tire on a street car it gets expensive real quick
Just the opposite for me.
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Old 08-30-2017, 05:52 PM
  #28  
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Stick car needs a bias ply, or a softloc clutch. That clutch buffer **** is junk you'll smoke every clutch you put in within 2 hits with that. Junk.
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Stick car needs a bias ply, or a softloc clutch. That clutch buffer **** is junk you'll smoke every clutch you put in within 2 hits with that. Junk.
Typical response of someone that doesn't understand how it works. Any experience you would like to share?

If you plan wot shifts with a radial, Softloc or any centrifugal assist clutch isn't the answer.

Grant
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Old 08-30-2017, 10:28 PM
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Grant ever actually build a fast car?

Ever have, or work on a fast stick shift car, something with a Liberty or the like?

Before you go shooting your mouth off about gimmick junk designed to make 1/2 *** setup's work, or are nothing more than a driver bandaid, or an attempt to make something work like a real race part at 100 pct the cost of said parts longevity... think a little. Not everyone in here is a clueless asshat about this kind of stuff.
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