Rayzor Rigzz

Hi guys, a couple days until the next track day and I took a gamble by installing a 5000 stall nitrous converter in my 86 mustang with aluminum 5.3 and a cam probably putting out about 400 crank at the max I'm thinking and the car weighs around 2600 with me in it. The converter I took out was a cheap 10" Jegs converter that was listed at 3500-3800 stall the cars best was 11.2 at 119.3 and a 1.60 60' on a fairly bad pass on my part. The problem I'm having is the car will not hold the line much past 1900-2100rpm because its so light and underpowered but it still seems too far off the stall rating to me. I'm really pushing for that 10.99 before the end of the season and this thing gets a turbo so I grabbed my buddy's 9" 5000 stall nitrous converter (from a real race car lol) to try. Do you think the car will stall higher even though its not on spray, light, and underpowered than with the old 10" 3500-3800 or was I better off with the non nitrous converter?

conexion914

iTrader: (5)

Every converter works different in different cars. Are your car and the car the converter was built for close in weight, gear, and HP?

If they are then I'd say it would stall close to what it stalled off the jug in your car as it did in your buddy's car. If not close, then you'll just have to see what happens.

Hope this helps some.

Rayzor Rigzz

Yea the weight may be close along with the gear but he's got all of double my power at least I'd say. Thanks for the reply, and hopefully this thing doesn't slow me down this week. All it really needs to do is stall higher than 2000rpm haha

conexion914

iTrader: (5)

One thing you may have to try with the other converter if the nitrous converter doesn't do what you want is to leave just above idle and see how it reacts that way.

fst100

iTrader: (5)

wouldn't a 5000 stall feel like a dog under ~5000 RPMs depending on the actual stall speed? like it'll feel like **** slow right off idle then when it approaches close to the 5k rpm range hit like vtec? lol

Rayzor Rigzz

I've just about tried it all with the old converter, that thing had around 40 test and tune passes in it before I pulled it and the best 60's came from just above idle until right before the last yellow whack the throttle and let go of the brake right after. When I would let go of the brake at the same time it would move way too early around 1900 rpm but if I gave it a little help holding it with the brake for a second it would rev up a little higher and come off the line almost a 10th better. We'll find out tonight though, just messing around in my driveway with the foot brake and trying launching it it seems that I can hold it a little better but its so hard to tell with no traction. Realistically this thing needs a good converter built for the set up to be perfect, but with the turbo coming in the off season I'm not willing to dump a ton of money into a converter for it, just trying to go fast the wrong way haha. Thanks for the time and help!

conexion914

iTrader: (5)

How'd it go?

conexion914

iTrader: (5)

It really depends on how the converter was built as well as how much power the car makes and what gear ratio is in the rear.

I high stall with numerically low gears will feel like a turd, whereas a high stall with numerically higher gears should feel pretty sporty well below the stall depending on how the converter is setup.

That's my interpretation and experience anyway.

Doug G

5000 stall and I told them I plan on a 150 shot max (when the time comes) Mine is really tight and can barely tell there's a stall in it....that is until you stand on it, then it jumps to 5000 and really comes alive.

I get my best 60's flashing the converter on launch off idle also

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

5000 for his motor, may not do that with yours.

What trans fluid are you running, also has an impact.

Rayzor Rigzz

Unfortunately the converter was hurt so I never got to see what it would actually do. The car ended up still running 11.60 with a 1.8 60' which is 2 tenths off where it was before. So tranny is coming back out and I'm going to rebuild it because its been needing it, and then the old converter is gonna go back in unless I find something else to try.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Why not have one made for your application and stop goofing around?

Doug G

Amen brother

Rayzor Rigzz

Because this set up will only be relevant for the rest of this season which is about 1 more month where I live so all the big buck parts will come when the turbo set up goes in. The car is at 11.2 now and I'm just dicking around with super cheap or free ways to pick up those 2 tenths before the track closes for the year and with college and everything it ain't that easy.