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Hey guys, I have a 4th gen camaro 3,250lbs with me in it. lsnext 387 inch, 88mm FI turbo, powerglide, 3.42 rear gear. Viking DA warrior shocks.
Have you guys had much success over 160 trap speeds with them?
I have seemed to be successful under that but since turned the car up and I cant launch, stay planted half track or even on the big end of the track the car wants to dance around.
Completely understand if I need to go up to a crusader or afco. Im just wondering if anyone has successfully gone fast. Say the 7's with a similar setup to mine.
I cut between 1.28(with a th400) and consistent 1.33's with it around 9-950hp on a not so well prepped track and no serious suspension tuning.
Ive based around their factory settings and made 10 passes last night completely unsuccessful trapping 165 and pedalling the car 3-5 times between the start and finish line.
I ran Viking Warriors on mine last year. 4th Gen TA, 3640 Raceweight, 390ci LSX, Twin 6766s, Glide, 1.80 first gear, 3.25 rear.
I never had any issues with the Warriors downtrack. It was always at the hit. I had some luck with them. But it was also easy to knock the tires off or put it on the bumper.
I had run 8.30, 8.34, 8.41, and 8.62 with them.
This year I switched to Menscers and couldn't be happier. I had to have the Vikings full tight on the front rebound. The valving on the Menscers allow me to be more clicks from full tight with adjustments available. Have had a lot better control of the front with the Menscers.
Just went 1.23, 1.24, 1.24 with them this weekend at over 3600lbs too.
Was happy with the Vikings, but I can easily see why anybody with big power says you have to spend money on struts. Very obvious now.
The standard tunnel mount that you guys offer? Is that what you would recommend?
What would the benefit be over the bmr? Other then this thing weighs 40+lbs it is a pretty beefy arm with a good amount of adjustment.
Best example I could give is the fastest stock style torque arm F-Body had someone else's and kept breaking it. Put our short torque arm and picked up ET.
They have since got rid of everything they had and bought all Midwest Chassis items down to our fabricated housing. I guess even discounted or free items were not worth keeping if they do not work.
It is hard to beat the amount of adjustment our pivot link provides.
[QUOTE=MidwestChassis;19748453] Is there any benefit to either the race or the standard? I kind of like how the race does not need the plate to mount. Im assuming that would only be worth a few pounds?
I have the quick performance fabricated center housing with mounting points on top and bottom.
Ive based around their factory settings and made 10 passes last night completely unsuccessful trapping 165 and pedalling the car 3-5 times between the start and finish line.
I pulled up my spreadsheet from last year to check out my Viking settings:
8.7psi launch. No ramp, straight to 28psi through full exhaust.
Shocks: From Full Loose
Front: 19R/17C
Rear: 11R/17C
A buddy of mine has a single turbo and I know his fronts never had to be as tight as mine with twins. But I think our rear settings were always really close and the front compression was typically pretty close.
I ran Viking Warriors on mine last year. 4th Gen TA, 3640 Raceweight, 390ci LSX, Twin 6766s, Glide, 1.80 first gear, 3.25 rear.
I never had any issues with the Warriors downtrack. It was always at the hit. I had some luck with them. But it was also easy to knock the tires off or put it on the bumper.
I had run 8.30, 8.34, 8.41, and 8.62 with them.
This year I switched to Menscers and couldn't be happier. I had to have the Vikings full tight on the front rebound. The valving on the Menscers allow me to be more clicks from full tight with adjustments available. Have had a lot better control of the front with the Menscers.
Just went 1.23, 1.24, 1.24 with them this weekend at over 3600lbs too.
Was happy with the Vikings, but I can easily see why anybody with big power says you have to spend money on struts. Very obvious now.
Thank you very much! That is the kind of data I like to hear. I was assuming there had to be some way to make them work out. They are not a terrible shock it seems. I definitely had some other errors in adjustments that should get me closer. Mainly my ride height and lca angle. I worked hard over this week to ramp boost in instead of just hammering the tires right off from the get go. I have a very capable setup I need to just gain the knowledge and experience.
Truth be told Ive done the entire thing along the way and its my second ever ls car. First ever tq arm. So it is totally different then I am used to with FWD cars. I have a great grasp on the 500-700hp cars. But this thing has been a learning lesson. I plan to upgrade shocks over the winter for sure. I was just hoping to stretch these a bit further. Especially since I went 8.70 and trapped 159.7 last year with a 5.3 ... now I have an lsnext and still not quicker lol. Definitely a better and faster basis though. This thing is a rocket.
8.7psi launch. No ramp, straight to 28psi through full exhaust.
Shocks: From Full Loose
Front: 19R/17C
Rear: 11R/17C
A buddy of mine has a single turbo and I know his fronts never had to be as tight as mine with twins. But I think our rear settings were always really close and the front compression was typically pretty close.
Thank you very much man. This is very helpful! I appreciate it.
I have been searching and searching all weekend. Good data is hard to find. I keep getting speculation and people wanting me to throw parts at the car.
Thank you very much man. This is very helpful! I appreciate it.
I have been searching and searching all weekend. Good data is hard to find. I keep getting speculation and people wanting me to throw parts at the car.
Agreed. You are at the hard part where going faster typically means you have to improve in the very front portion. Highly recommend videoing every run to see how the car reacts. We have been doing this for a couple of years and it is the only way to truly understand how the changes affect the car.
Agreed. You are at the hard part where going faster typically means you have to improve in the very front portion. Highly recommend videoing every run to see how the car reacts. We have been doing this for a couple of years and it is the only way to truly understand how the changes affect the car.
Your car is one of the cars that I reference when it comes to Viking shocks.
We have had a few customers use our race arms with that rear end but it does require some fabrication of the upper and lower mounting points.
Ok. I just figure it would get rid of the need of using 2-3 mounting locations to adapt to the rear. Essentially the same arm though. I will probably get one over the winter when I do the shocks. Ill be in touch. I have your guys cage and front k member. I love light parts!
Best example I could give is the fastest stock style torque arm F-Body had someone else's and kept breaking it. Put our short torque arm and picked up ET.
They have since got rid of everything they had and bought all Midwest Chassis items down to our fabricated housing. I guess even discounted or free items were not worth keeping if they do not work.
It is hard to beat the amount of adjustment our pivot link provides.
I have seen people say that the front adjusment and tq arm angle mean little to nothing. Is there a reasoning behind it or some sort of angle to look for?
I have seen people say that the front adjusment and tq arm angle mean little to nothing. Is there a reasoning behind it or some sort of angle to look for?
How else do you plan on playing with IC?
The same people that tell you that the front adjustment means nothing are probably the same people that say pinion angle does not effect traction.
The same people that tell you that the front adjustment means nothing are probably the same people that say pinion angle does not effect traction.
It makes perfect sense to me. The only thing that does not make sense is all of the magic numbers that are not posted anywhere.
Its been hard for me to find any concrete answers on things. I keep being told to try things lol.
It makes perfect sense to me. The only thing that does not make sense is all of the magic numbers that are not posted anywhere.
Its been hard for me to find any concrete answers on things. I keep being told to try things lol.
That's because there is no magic numbers. The only thing you can do is test until you figure out what works best for you. Just like how Only ERO's has his car set up may not work for you.
That's because there is no magic numbers. The only thing you can do is test until you figure out what works best for you. Just like how Only ERO's has his car set up may not work for you.
Thats what I shall do! Over winter I think Ill try the MWC race bar. Im still 3,250 race weight. Id like to get that down a tad.
Honestly, from what you are showing, I don't see a need to be changing components. The car is not far off from working, so a few adjustments with what you have can get you sorted out. Honestly, from the video you posted, most of what will help you will come from slowing how fast the front end reacts. I would try going up a couple of clicks on the front rebound and slowing the extension. As far as the rear settings, setup will be very different from a bias slick to a radial or stiff wall slick. Based on the angles of the arms and such you have posted, I think you are pretty well where you need to be for your tire. Shock settings will be the key to dialing it in from here
Honestly, from what you are showing, I don't see a need to be changing components. The car is not far off from working, so a few adjustments with what you have can get you sorted out. Honestly, from the video you posted, most of what will help you will come from slowing how fast the front end reacts. I would try going up a couple of clicks on the front rebound and slowing the extension. As far as the rear settings, setup will be very different from a bias slick to a radial or stiff wall slick. Based on the angles of the arms and such you have posted, I think you are pretty well where you need to be for your tire. Shock settings will be the key to dialing it in from here
I am heading out friday and saturday to test both days. I am very bothered with how my weekend went last weekend. I felt the car was out of my control.
I appreciate the help and guidance. I will post back with updates.
I do beleive I will need to get a little more capable shock soon though. A menscer or afco is on the list of upgrades. The car trapped 165/165 on 19.5 psi of boost. I was hoping to really rail on it and max this turbo out!!
10-17-2017, 12:16 PM
