Epoxied Air Lid
I found some definate room for improvement in the air tract. I did a few things under the hood for improved flow including cleaning up the MAF & re-contouring the air lid for high flow/velocity.
The bottom corners on the stock Whisper Lid form an L shape and there is a corner where air goes and gets stuck instead of going in the MAF where it should. I recontoured the Lid so ALL the air goes into the MAF directly. It's a velocity stack design and air should definately pick up speed going through the MAF. I also made the epoxy level with the edge of the MAF all the way around so air wouldn't hit the MAF entrance and cause turbulence. The IAT sensor was also relocated away from the velocity stack area to remove any turbulence.
Here are a couple pics I took before the epoxy:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...40043878uhMOyo
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...40043869MVnCQI
After Pics:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...40120261vStcvu
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...40120238bZArqK
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...40120248tAdIkH
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...40120419VSlqwd
I'll be doing some track testing next weekend. I predict a new best. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
<img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
Berger can still behind!!!!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Terry <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
Its funny to see you doing this to your air lid becuase I just took notice of its inner shape last week and was planning on doing something similar <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Good job
Mike I haven't looked very close at a Direct Flow. I'll try and dig up some info on the net and see how they look. I remember seeing info a while back where the popular air lids were flow tested. The direct flow was better than the MTI/Whisper. I wouldn't trade mine for anything though. I don't think I'll show pics of the finished product. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
I just finished the air lid up today and it's awesome. I sanded it down to 400 grit and the radiuses are perfect. I also did a little re-contouring/porting of the MAF, sealed the air lid, and did some more extensive mods below the airbox itself. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> I think it feels better. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
I might do some back to back tests of my lid vs. the whisper and stock on a local project car. And I'll probably try mine vs. the whisper this weekend.
Raised airbox thats been cut to shreds?
FTRA?
Ram air tubes?
Thanks <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
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I'll be fabricating a complete sheetmetal air box & ram air setup later, but this is just a quick little test I'm doing over the FRA setup.
Mike:
Exactly, raised airbox cut to shreds, opened up as much as possible without collapsing. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Terry:
I know, if it doesn't show up on the dyno for you, it doesn't work. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Worthless or not, it'll flow more than your airbox. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
The IAT sensor has to cause turbulence. Take out the rubber piece and get the largest bit you can that will fit in the hole and use it to drill the new hole. Make sure to use a smaller pilot hole though.
My airbox is formed like a velocity stack. It's worked for years in hotrodding, I don't know why it wouldn't work now.

