correct alignment procedure
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
correct alignment procedure I'll start this thread off by saying ive been out of the game for a long time and trying to resurrect an old project. unfortunately i have forgotten a lot of things along the way.
The car is a 98 fbody.
12 bolt differential with LCA brackets.
v6 springs
old bmr xtreme TA (poly front bushing)
madman LCAs w/ rod ends
adjustable panhard w/ rod ends
solid anti roll bar (i dont remember the brand, i believe its a wolfe)
comp engineering cheapo drag shocks
1.to begin, id imagine i need full weight in the car? gas, nitrous, weight in the driver seat.
2.do the rear tires need to be set at race psi? (27" m/t et street radials @22psi.)
once i have the car sitting in race form, i believe the first thing to do is adjust the panhard bar to center the rear. after that i check the angle of the LCAs and adjust their length to properly center the wheels in the wells and square the rear. once that is done i recheck the panhard adjustment.
Next im not sure whether i set the driveline (pinion?) angle first or do i set the antiroll bar first?
the reason i ask is im about 300 lbs and after the swaybar is set the car sits all funky without me in it. even though ill have weight in the driver seat to simulate me in there im just not sure.
so if someone could help clarify the rear end alignment procedure id be very grateful.
also once the rear end is aligned, how will i know that i did it right? how can i check that the thrust angle is as close to zero as possible?
For the front i really dont have anything adjustable except for the tubular k member.
but it does have a manual rack with a bump steer kit.
from what i understand, i am looking to have neutral camber, max positive caster, and never have any toe out at ride height, front end high from acceleration or dipping from braking.
does this sound correct?
if i have missed anything or am not on the right track please let me know.
thank you.
The car is a 98 fbody.
12 bolt differential with LCA brackets.
v6 springs
old bmr xtreme TA (poly front bushing)
madman LCAs w/ rod ends
adjustable panhard w/ rod ends
solid anti roll bar (i dont remember the brand, i believe its a wolfe)
comp engineering cheapo drag shocks
1.to begin, id imagine i need full weight in the car? gas, nitrous, weight in the driver seat.
2.do the rear tires need to be set at race psi? (27" m/t et street radials @22psi.)
once i have the car sitting in race form, i believe the first thing to do is adjust the panhard bar to center the rear. after that i check the angle of the LCAs and adjust their length to properly center the wheels in the wells and square the rear. once that is done i recheck the panhard adjustment.
Next im not sure whether i set the driveline (pinion?) angle first or do i set the antiroll bar first?
the reason i ask is im about 300 lbs and after the swaybar is set the car sits all funky without me in it. even though ill have weight in the driver seat to simulate me in there im just not sure.
so if someone could help clarify the rear end alignment procedure id be very grateful.
also once the rear end is aligned, how will i know that i did it right? how can i check that the thrust angle is as close to zero as possible?
For the front i really dont have anything adjustable except for the tubular k member.
but it does have a manual rack with a bump steer kit.
from what i understand, i am looking to have neutral camber, max positive caster, and never have any toe out at ride height, front end high from acceleration or dipping from braking.
does this sound correct?
if i have missed anything or am not on the right track please let me know.
thank you.
Thrust angle (rear axle) first thing
Caster, camber then toe last, up front. If you’re just racing use as little camber as possible, use as much caster as you can get in it but make it equal side to side, no crown on a drag strip. A good alignment for lower rolling resistance.
Caster, camber then toe last, up front. If you’re just racing use as little camber as possible, use as much caster as you can get in it but make it equal side to side, no crown on a drag strip. A good alignment for lower rolling resistance.
