tberg725

eventually i wanna break into the 10's with my car so im interested to see your guys opinion what h/c/i combo would you use to break into the 10s n/a with a yank 4000ss converter

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Whatever setup it is you'll need some weight reduction to even make it

tberg725

like what? i'm an imformation nerd lol i like hearing different opinions about stuff

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

I good drag setup for starters. Wheels, suspension, etc...That along with knocking out a couple hundred pounds from basic stuff should make 10's doable. Maybe the very best HCI available you might crack into the 10's at full weight but it's gonna be tough

tberg725

and what would be your idea of the best h/c/i

nj02z

iTrader: (6)

Here is my setup.TSP233/239 cam, PRC stage 1 243,stock bottom end, stock ls6 intake and tb, electric wp, manual steering,TH350, PTC 8" converter, 9 " 3.89 gears,27" QTP, full suspension,Kmember shocks,etc. Rollbar with Kirkeys. No heat/ac,radio,abs,wipers,doorbars,etc. Pretty much stripped of all non essentials but not hacked.Weight 3070 dyno 398 . Car is raced every week sometimes multiple times a week and will go 10.7-10.9 all summer long.

nj02z

iTrader: (6)

For the money TSP cam (call TSP), PRC stage 1 243,LS6 intake. Maybe not the "best" but best bang for the buck. Put me in the 10s.

deerslayinrednek

iTrader: (8)

My car went 10's with a 230/230 cam, fast 92mm and TEA 243's,Built 4L60E,Yank PT4000, 12 bolt 3.73's. The car was full weight, it had everything but A/C.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I went 10s NA here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/multimedi...pics-vids.html

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

My combo did with stock wheels,ac,full interior and a front sway bar around 3200 pounds. I don't care for the Vikings and actually did it with stock struts/control arms in the Florida heat. I think with a 4k converter and 3200 pound weight in decent air you will do it anything decent.

98CayenneT/A

11.2 banging the limiter on each shift with the setup in my sig on stock suspension. Full weight besides a/c delete and spare tire removed.

Having converter re stalled to a 4400 for just a bit more shift extension. Spinning to 7000 rpm's looking for extensions around 6300.

Hopefully 10.8 in the spring

tberg725

its funny how some combos effortlessly get people into the low 11 high 10 range while the same combo for others only get them mid to high 11s �� i see alot of people talk about "da" what is that?

98CayenneT/A

Da stands for density attitude. It is a measurement of the atmosphere and elevation. It takes into account humidity, temperature and barometric pressure to give a calculation of how many feet above or below sea level you would be in.

Here is a copy and paste from aopa

What Is Density Altitude?
Density altitude is pressure altitude corrected for nonstandard temperature. As temperature and altitude increase, air density decreases. In a sense, it's the altitude at which the airplane "feels" its flying.


Hopefully that helps, the higher the elevation the less oxygen and pressure there will be. In n/a cars, for every 1,000 ft. it tends to be about 1/10 second. So say with a da of 0 ft. you run 13 flat..... with a da around 3000 ft you would run roughly 13.3 - 13.4 and lose about 3 mph on your trap speed. Now say your da is negative like -1000 ft and you previously ran 13 flat at 0 ft you could see times around 12.8 and gain a couple mph.

That's why you see guys in like Denver running mid 14's or worse with stock Ls1's because there starting track elevations are 5,000 ft + above sea level and sometimes see da's close to 7000 ft.

Hopefully I worded all that so it kinda makes sense.
Here is a da calculator you can mess around with and also correct your times to give ya a idea of what you would run at sea level if you have very poor day's.
http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density-...calculator.php

NHRAFORMULA00

iTrader: (2)

The colder it is out side, and the higher the barometer is, the more power your car will make.
https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_da.htm

NHRAFORMULA00

iTrader: (2)

If it is like middle middle of summer and 90 degrees out the D.A. might be 4,500 ft. My car would run around 10.3x at 130 m.p.h.
Early spring or late fall 40-45 degrees, high barometer, my car will run 10.0x at 133-134.

Doug G

For some (ME) it didn't come easy....took a few years Lots of trial and error.
I would tune to no end, changed gears, different stalls, rebuilt trans, always something.....and then it happened.

Keep the faith.

3420# with me in it

fastlt1

iTrader: (4)

what rpm are you shifting at

nj02z

iTrader: (6)

6300.trap around 6600.It would probably go faster if I hammered it but I want longevity.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

My car was an 11.5 car with my motor/heads/cam/converter. I busted my *** getting it down to 10.8s over the course of a year or two. It just seems like its easy. It isnt. I chose to optimize what I had and NOT change anything in the motor or trans doing it. I finally reached a point where I felt like I need to change the above mentioned things to go faster. So I decided to sell the proven NA drivetrain and go 5.3/turbo.

Hardtop Brian

I made sure my car worked before adding power. 3250 raceweight, bolt ons, and 1.52 60' got me 11.66. Added ls6 cam for more rpms, 28" tire, and nitrous (not through the shifts) and went 10s. 10.88 on a 150 and it wasn't spraying for 2 seconds during the run because I set the window switch too low.