ls1 potential
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2018
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ls1 potential *I have used the search tool but have some questions*
Im wanting my 2001 trans am, ls1, auto in the 10s 1/4 mile. I searched and came across several people who have said its been done and some that said it was not hard at all. my mods are 1 7/8 speed engineering headers, 706 ported heads, ls6 intake, 232/234 .595 .598 comp cam, 3200 stall, 3" off road y pipe, cutout after y pipe, stock 10 bolt, adjustable pan hard rod, adjustable torque arm, weld in sfc
Was going to swap intake to a 102 fast, 102 NW throttle body both will be ported. I also wanted a bigger cam. This is not a daily driver but I do want it to have streetable manners.
Don't get me wrong the cam sounds nasty, but I just want a little more. Any suggestions? Think this will help me hit my goal on 10s?
Im wanting my 2001 trans am, ls1, auto in the 10s 1/4 mile. I searched and came across several people who have said its been done and some that said it was not hard at all. my mods are 1 7/8 speed engineering headers, 706 ported heads, ls6 intake, 232/234 .595 .598 comp cam, 3200 stall, 3" off road y pipe, cutout after y pipe, stock 10 bolt, adjustable pan hard rod, adjustable torque arm, weld in sfc
Was going to swap intake to a 102 fast, 102 NW throttle body both will be ported. I also wanted a bigger cam. This is not a daily driver but I do want it to have streetable manners.
Don't get me wrong the cam sounds nasty, but I just want a little more. Any suggestions? Think this will help me hit my goal on 10s?
Adding more cam won't do much for you, could even slow it down. It may make higher peak numbers but area under the curve/overall power band may suffer. Plus it'll be a high revver and need a really good valve train, need a higher stall etc to make the most of the bigger cam.
Your stall is a little tight, i'd look at a 3600-4000 stall.
A 92 or 102 intake would do good, probably add in the neighborhood of 20-25
I'd guess you're running around 11.5 now, you could just throw nitrous at it and be in the 10's
That 10 bolt will be near or at it's breaking point by then.
Try taking some weight out of the car too.
You didn't list suspension or tire details, if you aren't making the most out of that yet that's a key area.
Your stall is a little tight, i'd look at a 3600-4000 stall.
A 92 or 102 intake would do good, probably add in the neighborhood of 20-25
I'd guess you're running around 11.5 now, you could just throw nitrous at it and be in the 10's
That 10 bolt will be near or at it's breaking point by then.
Try taking some weight out of the car too.
You didn't list suspension or tire details, if you aren't making the most out of that yet that's a key area.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2018
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I do not know much about suspension for a f body so im sorry if some of my questions maybe dumb lol
I have only been to the track one time. I ran a 11.6 1/4 mile. was pretty disappointed but it was my first time. I didn't even know how to do a proper burnout and I was super nervous.
I didnt mention that I have 3.73 gears. The only thing I have suspension wise is bmr sfc, adjustable torque arm, and adjustable panhard rod. Stock 10 bolt. Was hoping to stay n/a.
I have corbeau forza race seats so I reduced weight there. Wheels are 17x9 front 17x10.5 rears (I believe) corvette reps. tires are NITTO NT555 315s in the rear.
As far as suspension goes, where should I start? Bmr k member? With a arms?
Also, I could go with weld wheels. I do drive the car but only when im off on the weekends. Not more than 100 miles a week
I have only been to the track one time. I ran a 11.6 1/4 mile. was pretty disappointed but it was my first time. I didn't even know how to do a proper burnout and I was super nervous.
I didnt mention that I have 3.73 gears. The only thing I have suspension wise is bmr sfc, adjustable torque arm, and adjustable panhard rod. Stock 10 bolt. Was hoping to stay n/a.
I have corbeau forza race seats so I reduced weight there. Wheels are 17x9 front 17x10.5 rears (I believe) corvette reps. tires are NITTO NT555 315s in the rear.
As far as suspension goes, where should I start? Bmr k member? With a arms?
Also, I could go with weld wheels. I do drive the car but only when im off on the weekends. Not more than 100 miles a week
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 14
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My goal really at this point is to get my ls1 to the 10s. Thought if I lost some weight in front with a k member that would help some. And start replacing suspension components like you mentioned.
All of the things mentioned are going to help at some level, but the basis for a good suspension setup start with some good shocks and struts. With that said a good adjustable setup is preferred for drag racing usually. My buddy has Vikings and says they are really nice for the money. Just depends on your budget and whatnot
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2018
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All of the things mentioned are going to help at some level, but the basis for a good suspension setup start with some good shocks and struts. With that said a good adjustable setup is preferred for drag racing usually. My buddy has Vikings and says they are really nice for the money. Just depends on your budget and whatnot
Well im willing to pay whatever. Don't really want to cheap out on suspension just to go back and end up getting what I should have in the first place. Ill look into vikings. I was told by a friend that does grudge racing to go with everything adjustable. Thats why I got the adjustable pan hard rod and torque arm.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2018
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BMR and UMI are brands I have used. Both work really well. Upper and lower control arms, springs, and adjustable shocks will get you to hook and quite possibly well into the 10's. At that point, you need to work on the rear as it will give up the ghost soon. After that, you will need motor work to go faster.
Well im willing to pay whatever. Don't really want to cheap out on suspension just to go back and end up getting what I should have in the first place. Ill look into vikings. I was told by a friend that does grudge racing to go with everything adjustable. Thats why I got the adjustable pan hard rod and torque arm.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: White Bear, Mn
Where are you shifting at?
If it were me I would go to a yank pt4000 or even better a pt4400. That 3200 is way to small for that cam if you're chasing e.t numbers. I would also go with a msd intake. They just keep pulling.
Also put a real set of tires on the back. Imo stock suspension can carry you a long way in a auto. I would leave it for now.
Post a time slip
If it were me I would go to a yank pt4000 or even better a pt4400. That 3200 is way to small for that cam if you're chasing e.t numbers. I would also go with a msd intake. They just keep pulling.
Also put a real set of tires on the back. Imo stock suspension can carry you a long way in a auto. I would leave it for now.
Post a time slip
+1 for afco. Whats your rear LCA angle? If it is level, try to get 2-6 degrees incline on them.
Also, do not discount weight reduction. Pull your AIR system, lighter brake rotors, lithium battery, tubular K, lighter hood, etc. I seen vids of a cam only Ls1 trans am going 10.1@140, because he weighed 2600 lbs.
Also, do not discount weight reduction. Pull your AIR system, lighter brake rotors, lithium battery, tubular K, lighter hood, etc. I seen vids of a cam only Ls1 trans am going 10.1@140, because he weighed 2600 lbs.
11.6 is nothing to be disappointed in for your mods.
There's a lot of great recommendations above.
Those heavy street wheels need to go ASAP. They are REALLY heavy compared to a drag wheel setup. You should be able to drop about 100 pounds there and you'll be dropping rotational mass/unsprung weiight too so it's a double win.
Tubular suspension and K member would be great. Pull all emissions crap that isn't needed. Any seats, spare and jack. A lot of people pull bumper supports out (the metal bars) but I left mine because I daily drove it. Any of the bigger name brands are good.. BMR, UMI, etc. The site sponsors are to the far right of your screen. Click around on there and shop.
Get it lightened up some, a better intake, and a bigger stall and see where that gets you. That alone will likely get you bottom 11's upper 10's.
Some other suggestions.. Electric water pump, do something with power steering whether you get a turn one pump that has lower drag or delete power steering, look into a crank scraper. Summit 25% under drive pulley. All these things reduce parasitic load on the engine and free up power. The light weight wheels will free up some power too.
There's a lot of great recommendations above.
Those heavy street wheels need to go ASAP. They are REALLY heavy compared to a drag wheel setup. You should be able to drop about 100 pounds there and you'll be dropping rotational mass/unsprung weiight too so it's a double win.
Tubular suspension and K member would be great. Pull all emissions crap that isn't needed. Any seats, spare and jack. A lot of people pull bumper supports out (the metal bars) but I left mine because I daily drove it. Any of the bigger name brands are good.. BMR, UMI, etc. The site sponsors are to the far right of your screen. Click around on there and shop.
Get it lightened up some, a better intake, and a bigger stall and see where that gets you. That alone will likely get you bottom 11's upper 10's.
Some other suggestions.. Electric water pump, do something with power steering whether you get a turn one pump that has lower drag or delete power steering, look into a crank scraper. Summit 25% under drive pulley. All these things reduce parasitic load on the engine and free up power. The light weight wheels will free up some power too.