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Looking for some input on rear shocks settings. Looking to try and promote more weight transfer. The front of the car is all stock with no sway bar. It raises to the top of the shocks very easy, most likely very worn out shocks lol. Back of the car has a quartermax ARB, lcarbs, tunnel mounted short tq arm, and Viking double adjustable rear shocks. Right now I thing i have compression set at 10 clicks from full soft and extension set at 3 from full soft. In my reading in the past, I’ve seen people talk about stiffening up the rear compression to aid in stoping whee stands. So, if I soften the rear compression would that help get the front end up?
In this pic the transfer look's good, but I can't tell if your right at the launch or if your 10-20' etc outta the hole
this is right at the launch, on a pro bracket radial. It hooked, brought the nose up and then unloaded and spun all in about 2’. I have a pair of Hoosier slicks I’m going to try out, should help. Just looking for ways to make other improvements
I was running my rear shocks set at 50/50 fronts were set on full loose extension and almost full tight on rebound. I was also running a short torque arm and 16psi on a 26” M/T drag radial. Car would dead hook with a 5000 stall converter.
You might want to invest in the double adjustable Viking fronts to complement the rears.
Having your extension loose will want to allow the spring to push the car back up. Tighten your rebound and loosen the compression. The car will squat harder and hold down for longer.
Having your extension loose will want to allow the spring to push the car back up. Tighten your rebound and loosen the compression. The car will squat harder and hold down for longer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-JRUc2zMrw
literally everything I’ve ever read on thentorque arm suspension says squat is bad on the rear, it removes weight from the tires when it squats. Must be not understanding what you’re getting at. The car won’t even try and and hook with the rebound set tight
If the front is rising real fast and immediately dropping down, imo, you need to slow the front down. It's not keeping the front up long enough to keep weight to the rear. You don't have an issue getting weight transferred to the back. You have an issue keeping it there. Some coil overs on the front would really help you for what you have going on. I don't believe the Hoosiers will eliminate your problem.
literally everything I’ve ever read on thentorque arm suspension says squat is bad on the rear, it removes weight from the tires when it squats. Must be not understanding what you’re getting at. The car won’t even try and and hook with the rebound set tight
There is 10 ways to get a similar result. Did you watch the video and see how far my car squats? Call me crazy. Say thats not how you do it. But my car didnt pop a wheelie and unload the tires. It just ran a 5.9 on a street type asphalt surface without barely any rubber down.
All you can do is try things. Reading you will get 10 conflicting comments.
Looking at what your car is doing. Without a shock tight enough to slow the front weight. You are going to keep spinning and unloading as soon as the front weight slams and bottoms out.
You need to get on the rear tire. Track type settings will not work with what you are trying to do. Even more so tough on a radial.
There is 10 ways to get a similar result. Did you watch the video and see how far my car squats? Call me crazy. Say thats not how you do it. But my car didnt pop a wheelie and unload the tires. It just ran a 5.9 on a street type asphalt surface without barely any rubber down.
All you can do is try things. Reading you will get 10 conflicting comments.
Looking at what your car is doing. Without a shock tight enough to slow the front weight. You are going to keep spinning and unloading as soon as the front weight slams and bottoms out.
You need to get on the rear tire. Track type settings will not work with what you are trying to do. Even more so tough on a radial.
Im certainly not saying what you’re doing isn’t working or that it won’t work, I was merely stating that’s the exact opposite of everything I’ve read. I’m willing to learn, obviously it’s workinv for you. My car currently doesn’t drop the front end untill it spins, it picks it up to the top of the shocks and holds it untill it spins and then drops it. It does this from a roll also, the front end raises so much i struggle to see where I’m going. I didn’t believe that was a bad thing UNTILL it gets to the point it’s trying to go on its bumper?
Im certainly not saying what you’re doing isn’t working or that it won’t work, I was merely stating that’s the exact opposite of everything I’ve read. I’m willing to learn, obviously it’s workinv for you. My car currently doesn’t drop the front end untill it spins, it picks it up to the top of the shocks and holds it untill it spins and then drops it. It does this from a roll also, the front end raises so much i struggle to see where I’m going. I didn’t believe that was a bad thing UNTILL it gets to the point it’s trying to go on its bumper?
Check to see if your rear shocks are hitting or rubbing on the brackets of the axle. Ive seen that quite often in the rear. Effectively it binds the shock travel.
We use single adj QA1s. Full loose on extension for the right rear shock, one click on extension for the left rear, and twelve clicks on extension on both front shocks. Dead hooks on a 4500 rpm launch off the TB. We run Hoosier slicks at the track. Same settings work perfect on the street too with Hoosier QTP's. Barely any tire rotation on the street but a little. Just have to back the launch back to 3600 rpm. Not saying this will work for you but it sure works for our F body. Chris Alston has some very informative information on his site you might want to check out. There is more to it than just turning the dial on the shock. It has a lot to do with what weight springs and shock length that your using to get it to transfer right too. His info works perfect. Check it out. The rear should not squat. It should not move down at all other than from tire squat. Its Okay if it separates but no more than an inch. Optimal is it doesn't move up or down at all. Best of Luck.
Today I was able to get the car out, I have the used 28” Hoosiers on now, and I set the rear shocks extension to full loose, no other changes and it dead hooks 4k trans brake launch with no prep, no spinning at all. So progress on traction anyways.
Sweet. Now that you got it hooking. Play with the front extension. Ideally you want the front end to come up slow, smooth, stay there, and not leave the ground so it stays planted on the rear tires. You may have to crank the front shocks up quite a bit. You will see your 60 drop the better you control it. All this not only helps out of the hole but it helps big time on the big end. Watch how much compression you have on the DA shocks. If you are feeling drastic road or track variations( humps or dips ) they are too tight. A few tracks we have been at we would hear people complaining about a hump or dip and we would look at each other like I didn't even feel it. Same class of cars too. So I'm not sure what number click it is compared to a the fixed compression on a SA QA1 shock but I would say it would be a good starting point to try out. Our car rides and handles amazingly good track and street.
09-04-2018, 01:50 PM
Opinions for more weight transfer 
