Quick help: Best first mods for 12s
Jed
Let me help you out here. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
1a. You need a 12 bolt rear end.(Let me say you have been warned)$2,000.00 to $3,000.00 installed <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" /> 10 bolt rear you need 4.10 gears and T/A cover($900.00 for parts and installed).I made it about 30 runs before I twisted one of the axles. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />
1b.Slicks and some brand of racing wheels! How bad do you want in the 12's? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> $300.00 to $400.00 for tires and $300.00 to $400.00 for wheels. Some type of front runner tires and 15x3.5 wheel.($400.00 to $600.00)
2. A line lock.(A must at the drag strip for heating up the slicks) <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />
3. A shift light($250.00 for parts and labor)You need to hit your shift points the same all the time.
4.Headers IMP-Hooker long tubes $250.00 to $350.00(best header for the money you can buy)
5.Hooker y-pipe and cat back($400.00 to $600.00)
Here is one of the most important things: Seat time at the Drag Strip. <img border="0" alt="[devil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
This is the way that I went.(with a few changes that I would do now, thinking back).
I hope this gives you some ideas and Iam sure others on here will give you there ideas as well. <img border="0" alt="[hail]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" />
If you cannot get a 2.05-2.00 60' out of your car then try-try-try until you do, for this is what it takes to get the best out of a stock m6 car.
The mods from there on out should be: Free ram air, cat back exhaust, air lid, and so on and so forth.
Our 1998 m6 Z28 went an 13.0 with only a lid, Free ram air, and a programmer. And, considering that every year since the 98 has been faster, an 01 or 02 should have no problem getting into the 12's with relatively no mods.
P.S. The quickest m6 bolt on car for a while was Magnus, and he did his 11.90's on drag radials with stock manifolds! So dont go thinking you HAVE to spend the big bucks to go fast.
Good Luck
Remove some weight:
- the washer/wiper res. and all that plastic under the engine compartment. Should allow more cold air in as well which is always good in the summer.
- rear hatch cover between rear speakers. There's also some sound deadening under that flap of carpet between the rear speakers as well that is worthless.
- remove the rear seats and passenger seat at the track.
- spare tire and jack.
- etc., etc., etc. however far you want to go!!
Get a lid and K&N ($100 used) and do the free mods.
My favorite mod for any LS1 is the free catback and cutout. Remove the stock catback right after the y-pipe. take off the 4 bolts for the muffler hangers and loosen the one bolt at the y-pipe. Cut the pipe that goes over your rear-end so you don't have any problems getting the 2 pieces out from under the car. This will save you the money of a catback and a cutout. The car will sound good - not too loud. It cost you $10 to put it back to stock when you get ready to.
For $300, you should drop at least 1/2 second from stock - I dropped .75 with those mods and a little better weather.
Good Luck,
Eric
This year added FTRA, lower control arms and Ripper shifter, went 12.61 @ 112+ mph stock 342'S
Recently added Strange 12 bolt w/410's, MACS w/oryp. Weather conditions not to good now so this fall sig times should fall. Got pulleys in garage to put on and Bogarts with ET Streets and front runners being delivered soon. Coach is 100% right seat time at the track is one of the best things for improving your times.Good luck. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Bruce
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