New Guy, where do I start?
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Teching In
Joined: Feb 2019
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From: Littleton,Colorado
New Guy, where do I start? I have a ‘79 Camaro drag race car. The last several years we have run a SBC 355 and a BBC 496.. Its time for a change and would like to explore the fuel injected LS world. Car weighs 3200# with driver and sbc, Ford 9” rear with 4:56 gears, built powerglide, cal tracs , 28” MT slicks. I have a high mileage 5.3 and a 4l60 from a donor truck. Im not out to rotate the world, just go out on weekends and play. Would like to see mid 11,s. Where do I start ? Would like to stay under 5K for budget. Hope thats a realistic number
what engine mods? Are 11,s possible without a turbo? What trans? Are 4:56 gears enough/ Too much? . Appreciate the help. Looking forward to getting back on the track
Car is 1/4 mile drag race only
what engine mods? Are 11,s possible without a turbo? What trans? Are 4:56 gears enough/ Too much? . Appreciate the help. Looking forward to getting back on the track
Car is 1/4 mile drag race only
I am in the middle of a 5.3 mild build. I won't talk about internals (cam, pistons, rods, heads) but I will talk about the "externals" because there have been some surprises for me. I hope I don't discourage you - the numbers got a lot higher than I thought they would. I have been greatly enjoying myself however 
. My 5.3 is going in a 3500 lb car 
. I have a 200-4R . I do have a 4l60e that I am tempted to rebuild myself with 600 bucks worth of parts (back burner).
Here's my list of "externals" in no particular order:
Oddly, the engine (core) is among the cheapest parts. You can get a 100K mile 5.3 for a few hundred. To save 100lbs, you can upgrade to an aluminum block later. Also, an iron 364 (6.0 - L96, LC8, LQ4, LQ9, LY6) from a truck might be a better start for you. They're still pretty cheap and you'll get more torque... and you'll be able to get away with more cam.
Good luck and most importantly.. have fun.
. My 5.3 is going in a 3500 lb car . I have a 200-4R . I do have a 4l60e that I am tempted to rebuild myself with 600 bucks worth of parts (back burner).Here's my list of "externals" in no particular order:
- intake (300-1200 - (I bought a used LS6 intake with injectors, fuel rails for 280))
- Injectors, fuel rails (100-500)
- Throttle body (150+ - I'm going to try to use my original but I have a mild build)
- Steam kit (150)
- coils (use your old ones if you can - 50-75 used truck thru 800 for msd - I bought used LS1 coils for 50 bucks b/c my truck coils were in horrible condition)
- Headers (300-1200 - I'll try to stay closer to 300 )
- Engine Mounts (100-ish)
- Oil Pan (400 for a Holley - not sure what's compatible with your car)
- Computer (reprogram original computer 300+tune or 800 for FITech "Ultimate LS Standalone Unit" + 200 for trans control)
- Fans for radiator (maybe you have those already)
- You're lucky, you have a stout rear end but may not need to be so tall. Gotta good driveshaft? Good, now get the length right - 100-200.
- Rebuild your 4l60e - 1200 for stage 1 - whatever that means.
- Front of engine bracketry (500-ish Holley looks appealing)
- Balancer (you may want to "pull" the truck balancer as it sets the standard for the depth of your belt and all accessories - with a Camaro, you want to be closer to the engine I suspect. Used balancer on ebay - 50
- alternator, a/c compressor, water pump, p/s - probably 300+ more. You can save money with truck accessories if you have them.
- Air intake snorkel and filter (100-300)
- Catch Can (50)
- Got 68 lbs of fuel pressure? No? 500 bucks for "drop in your tank" Holley unit that has a fuel mat, sender and works with your tank.
- Miscellaneous wiring, hardware, belt, plumbing blah blah blah (500)
- heads with 2 inch intakes, new springs, porting, etc. (1200 - lots of folks do CNC'd 243's or have your heads (862's?) cnc'd, valved, decked)
- cam (400 - your probably looking at .600+ lift and 220+ duration - I'll go more mild for drive-ability and reliability) btw, cams seem to behave very differently in LS's as opposed to bbc's and sbc's.
- pushrods, maybe lifters, new oil pump (400)
- You could probably get by with the stock bottom end for now unless you need different pistons for compression.. btw, 4.8 pistons are flat top as opposed to nearly all 5.3 which are dished. You could get a big increase in compression with used 4.8 pistons - see youtube.
Oddly, the engine (core) is among the cheapest parts. You can get a 100K mile 5.3 for a few hundred. To save 100lbs, you can upgrade to an aluminum block later. Also, an iron 364 (6.0 - L96, LC8, LQ4, LQ9, LY6) from a truck might be a better start for you. They're still pretty cheap and you'll get more torque... and you'll be able to get away with more cam.
Good luck and most importantly.. have fun
. Last edited by GammaFlat; Feb 24, 2019 at 11:47 PM.
