GeorgeC

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by JP98SS:
<strong>Did you drain the oil? If the water is isolated to the valvetrain you might be in luck. If you are getting water down into the crankcase you will be looking at another block.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, I drained the oil. The oil looked slightly contaminated, but there wasn't actually any water in the crankcase. I plan on quite a few repetitive oil changes if the block sealer seems to fix the problem, just to make sure there is no H2O in the crankcase whatsoever...

CutlassRacer

Heeeeyy George, can you make me a copy of that video from Wed? Wanna add it to the "Team Rollins" tape, lol. I will have a pair of your old slicks on the car for this Saturday, hopefully they wont drop my gear too much. I have a sneaky suspicion I may break 12s anyways.

Coach 02 A3 Z/28

iTrader: (10)

George,

This sucks. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />

A new motor and all that time down and the damn thing leaks water. I feel for ya brother. <img border="0" alt="[Banging Head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />

I sure wish you luck, buddy. <img border="0" alt="[angel]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_angel.gif" />

Coach

JP98SS

Did your overflow tank get full or burp out coolant? That's the easiest way to tell if you are pressurizing the cooling system.

GeorgeC

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Pro Stock John:
<strong>1) Coolant loss. Well, I typically run the car cold with the cap off, and then top it off over the course of about 5-10 minutes, how do you fill yours? Check the hoses into the waterpump one of mine was soft and had a small leak.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Pretty much the same way... This isn't something that just happened once... It's constantly losing coolant. I couldn't really determine that it was doing so, as until Monday I didn't realize that I had 2 hoses on the radiator hooked up backwards, and the car was losing coolant out of the overflow tank. Now it's just losing coolant plain and simple. I can top off the water in the radiator, make a pass, check the coolant, and find it down... I just realized last night that it was doing this, and I quikt running the car after determining that the water level in the radiator wasn't just settling/getting air out of the system. When I get home this afternoon, I'm going to do some testing/checking and probably try running some sealer through it and see what happens.

GeorgeC

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Fireball:
<strong>define big loss of coolant...

Are you sure you didn't have an air pocket that just opened up and took the extra coolant? Do you run straight water? If not...can you smell any burning coolant in the exhaust?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Big loss? I had to add water to the car a few times last night. I put in 9-10oz. each time or so. When I got home, the level in the radiator was down again, and took another 10oz. or so...

I do run straight water, so there wouldn't be any coolant smell. The exhaust is dry, though.

GeorgeC

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by JP98SS:
<strong>Did your overflow tank get full or burp out coolant? That's the easiest way to tell if you are pressurizing the cooling system.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Nope, not since I got the line to the overflow tank hooked up correctly (see above reply to PSJ...)

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Reversed hoses? Could you have damaged something?

You seeing white smoke out the mufflers? It's got to go somewhere at that rate like into the combustion chamber.

I am not sure your 28'lbers are enuff at 8grand either but as long as they are not at like 100% duty cycle goergec would be okay right?

JS

iTrader: (4)

K&W is the best block sealer.
It'll work for u George...

JS

CHRISPY

reversed hoses aren't good <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />
hmmm
No signs of detonation? No water pouring from one of the heads? (Gasket pushed out slightly)
I am worried about your 8000rpm shifts with 28# injectors. a good dyno tune with LS1 edit would help a lot I think.
Good luck

Might be worth throwing some coolant in to trace where the water is going. ie: out the exhaust, into the crankcase etc etc.
Chris

Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

If injecters were a problem he'd melt a plug first. Sounds like the typical water control issue with big bore motors.

GeorgeC

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Pro Stock John:
<strong>Reversed hoses? Could you have damaged something??</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No, I don't think so. The two hose were the two small ones at the top of the radiator by the cap/filler. The way they were routed, the overlow tank was always exposed to pressure from the radiator, so when the coolant would get up to temp, it would go right into the overflow tank. The car never got over temperature. It would just puke out coolant when I shut the engine off...

<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
You seeing white smoke out the mufflers? It's got to go somewhere at that rate like into the combustion chamber.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Nope, nothing. They look clean.
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I am not sure your 28'lbers are enuff at 8grand either but as long as they are not at like 100% duty cycle goergec would be okay right?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Acutally, I'm only shifting the car @ 7200rpm or so. That seems like where it wants to run best. I pull 2-3 plugs and check them after every pass, and there perfect. Fuel pressure is around 68psi, and I've upped the fuel by around 106% using LS1Edit.

<small>[ August 08, 2002, 01:01 PM: Message edited by: GeorgeC ]</small>

JP98SS

My gut says block sealer isn't going to help. You are losing the seal on the headgasket. This will only get worse with time. Carefully take note of the level in the overflow tank. I bet you anything that it is getting higher. Your precious compression is getting into the water jacket and pushing the coolant out of the radiator. Soon it will deteriorate the headgasket and you will start to get steam out of the tailpipe.

GeorgeC

We'll see if the block sealer works or not... I don't think it's a head gasket issue. My gut (which is no better than anybody else's gut <img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" /> ) tells me it's a sleeve letting some water get by. If so, the sealer may correct it.

If it is a head gasket issue, that would be great, since it's very easy to install a new gasket!

Tim98TA

iTrader: (7)

George, if the K & W doesn't work, try some stuff called DYKE. Made by a company called Conklin. Kinda hard to find but I will tell you it is the best stuff I have ever used. Put it in the same way you put the others in, but this stuff seems to be MUCH better.
We had a customer with a piece of machinery that had an inline 6 cyl Cummins diesel. It had a BAD blown head gasket. They wanted it fixed cheaply so they could send it to auction. It was blown so bad that steam would come out of the breather valve on the valve cover. The coolong system held 12 gallons. We had to use 2 cans for that amount of cooling capacity. Put the stuff in as directed, and it never leaked again. We ran the unit wide open for about 1 hour straight to see if it would leak again and when we drained the oil the next day, NO water, whereas before it was a gallon or so of water. The stuff is the ****.

Good luck,
Tim

GeorgeC

David Douberly also recommended the DYKE sealer. I'll order some of it and try that if necessary. If I could find it locally, I would have bought some of that.

Joel recommended the K&W, and since then I've had multiple local folks tell me "miracle" stories about it as well.

Trevor @ Texas Speed & Perf.

iTrader: (3)

Sorry for not getting back to ya sooner George. The guy I'm talking about started burning small amounts of coolant in the beginning, but then it got progressively worse. After the incredible power loss, the engine came out for another one. I hate to say it, but I really think it's a sleeve issue. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

good luck

Trevor

JP98SS

Sometimes the sleeves drop and sometimes the deck moves up. Either way, once you start getting that kind of movement you are bound to loose the seal on the combustion chamber. Which headgaskets are you running?

JP98SS

The block has a seat machined in which the sleeve sits. Please explain to me how exactly it is possible for a sleeve to drop? I think that the deck must be distorting creating the illusion of a sleeve that is "dropping."

JP98SS

Have you put a pressure gauge on your cooling system? What is it running at?