BigP

I ran my car at the local 1/4 mile track (Bradenton Club 1320) last night. I must say that I am very disappointed. They had no burnout box and I could not get enough wheel speed to really heat up the tires plus-NO TIMESLIPS! The last time I had the car at the track it ran 8.80 in the 1/8 so I know I'm not at the wheel. I've got 245/55/R16's on the car now that had 45 psi front and 18 psi rear plus a half a tank of gas. It was hot too like 86 or 87 degrees with about 90% humidity. Is ther3e something that I am doing wrong!?!?!? I was honestly hoping for 13.9 but now I'm really Don't these cars run it the 13's stock?? Thanks in advance for any replies to this thread.

MstgKillr

iTrader: (4)

I know the Florida heat and humidity will kill you but your times seem alot slower than normal. Any other LS1's out there running slow. I know I went 13.9 to a 13.1 bone stock from summer to winter.

MstgKillr

iTrader: (4)

My times were also at Bradenton. You probably had poor track prep due to all the ricers there, then add the heat and humidity = slow. A time slip would help find the problem.

BigP

Well, that's just the problem, they didn't hand out any timeslips so I really couldn't make any adjustments to my run to try and bring the time down. Plus I have an auto and she pulls really good in 1st gear but and sonn as it hits 2nd it kind jumps/lurches forward a tad and then the motor kind bogs down. I think that has alot to do with it too. I should just bite the bullet and put a stall converter and a set of 3.73 gears in the car.

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

club 1320 = rice night. no prep and fwd retards tearing up the trac k and dragging water onto the launch pad. dont worry about it. it is damn hot and stock ls1 cars are running 14.1s at times. this is the WORST time to run in FL. i am sure your 60' times were horrid as well.

i wouldnt worry about modding it (unless you really want to ofcourse) and just wait till it cools down OR go on a sunday morning called Runday Sunday - they start running at 9 am and it is cooler and the prep is very good. mostly race cars, but hey, they put rubber on the track.

bad2000ss

iTrader: (6)

Your 8.80 1/8 mile time is good for a 13.7-13.8 so i would worry much about this time around. Chaulk it up to bad track prep.

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

also why did you run 18 psi in your rear tires? they are radials. and the size do NOT sound like drag radials. you most likely cuped the tires = bad for traction at that low of a pressure.

bics56

Why do you need to heat the tires when you have street tires. I was always told to just do a quick burnout to clean the tires off a bit with street tires. Thise times are pretty bad for an auto. I mean those things are pretty simple... just keep it to the floor. I can do a 1-3 shift in my car and run faster than a 14.7 I would never go to that track again...your auto should run at least high 13's even on a hot humid night.

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

that track - BMP - is one of the fastest hardest hooking tracks on days they prep. even a bad day - like the ricer night - is about average for most tracks i hit up in the midwest when i lived out there. guys pull 1.7 60' times on nittos and 6 speeds there in the wintertime at BMP.

also what was your 60' time? that will be a huge factor in your times. check out a sunday runday trackday. i know there is one tomorow.

BigP

Thanks for the replies! Gator- I have tried experimenting with different tire pressures in the rear. Yes, they are radials, they are Kumho ECTSA Supra 712's 245/55/R16. With the 18 psi in the rear tires at Sunshine (1/8 mile track) I got my best 60 ft. of 2.0 sec. so I figured that I was hooking the best at that psi. I launch the car at 1000-1200 RPM and if I don't do a healthy burnout, I spin all through first gear and partway into second. I wasn't expecting the car to be fast it is stock after all, well mostly. But I sure as hell wasn't expecting the 14.7 that I ran on Friday Night.

BigP

Not to mention that every run the coolant temp was at 210 degrees. I sat in the staging lanes with the heater on max hot with the highest fan speed and revving up to 2000 RPM to try to bring the temps down. I couldn't get her cooled off. Now I'm thinking coolant bypass mod for the TB, Hypertech power programmer to turn the fans on earlier with a 160 thermostat.

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

well i will say again, on khumos (regular radials) all you are doing is making your tires greasy if you are doing any kind of burnout that makes smoke. also those tires will cup at that pressure going that low. hell even the smaller stock sized drag radials like nittos perform best at 20 psi.

i also wouldnt suggest reving your motor to 2000 rpms in an attempt to lower temps. you are just heating up the rest of the motor including the intake and tb.

with a 2.0 60' and assuming you are an automatic car, 14.1s in the middle of the heat should be about right for a stock car right now. now come november, watch out.

btw, what do you mean you are stock? isnt that your car in your sig???

BigP

Yeah, the car in my sig is mine, but I don't really have that much done to it engine wise, no headers or nitrous or anything that will make a good amount of horsepower. And yes I do have an automatic. It's just that good aftermarket parts are alot of money for these cars. I think that the price of headers/y pipe is like $1200. And $500 for stall converters ouch! And the Hypertech Power Programmer is like $300+ and only gives you like 10 horsepower. And I have to drive the car everyday so taking it off the road to do cylinder heads/camshaft/intake isn't really economical. Do you guys know any way to get rid of the bog when the auto trans shifts into 2nd gear? Will upping the line pressure work at all or does it really need a converter? Thanks! Paul Moore

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

dont waste your money on a Hypercrap. that bog will only be taken care of with a bigger convertor. an aftermarket stall convertor is the BIGGEST and EASIEST way to improve your ET in an auto. bar none. your suspension mods mean nothing without the right tire. otherwise, just search for the answers to your questions. they have been answered a million times. and no headers and y pipe are much cheaper, just go check out the sponsers. you can go incredibly fast without hurting daily driveability.