GueSS Who

Ok guys here it is. This is my setup.

Iron 408
Heads
245/250 630/635 112 cam
Grot headers
TSP lid
MAF kit with lower and upper stage being utalized (150 on both, makes 250 to the wheels)
TH400 with stock 1st gear
PI 4000 stall
SFI plexplate
Inland steel 3.5in drive shaft
Moser 12bolt with 373 gears and a Eaton Posi
Bogarts with 28/10.0/15 rear and ET fronts up front
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Wolfe 6point cage
Tubular K-member, A-arms (upper and lower)
BMR sfc
wolfe sway bar, double adj LCAs, double adj phb
sphon fully adj torque arm
relocation brackets
Hals all the way around
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The car weighs in at about 3380 with me in it. I had a 4L60E in the car for awhile and went 6.26 with a 1.38 60ft on a 150 shot. I blew up the A4 trying to get into the 5's. LOL I replaced it with a TH400 that is built completely and has a pro brake in it. I bought a 900 dollar TCI 8in converter (on the brake this verter stalled to 4800) that was alittle big for the bottle. The dyno was over in 1.4 secs. LOL I traded that into them for a 9in converter (This verter stalled to 4600 on the brake). Again there was no shift extension on either one of these converters. I then sold it and got a 4000 PI converter, this one stalls to 3800 on the brake and is quite abit tighter. Every single time at the track with each one of these converters the car would get a best of 1.40 60fts. None of them would help me out in the short time at all. I set the suspension up different every single time. I found that 6 in the rear and 5 in the front made the best time. For eveyone that is reading this. The problem is not bogging out of the whole it is spinning from the line to 20ft out. I can leave on the brake or foot brake it. It doesn't matter it does the same thing. I can leave off of 150 or I can leave off of 250. Both ways it spins. I get a 1.46 60ft on motor and 1.43's and up on nitrous. I have set the pinion angle perfect. I have 0 degrees difference between the 2 working angles. I have -3 degrees of pinion angle. Sometimes the car pulls the wheels 6ins and sometimes it doesn't pull them at all, keeping in mind that with the 4L60E it yanked them 2ft in the air with just a 150 shot. I have been stumped for a couple of months now. I try new things everytime I go out. Never any changes in the short time. I have new Hoosier tires btw. Any input would be great.

I dyno 700rwhp and 780rwtq
best time to date is 6.09@115 in the 1/8

PonyKiln

Damn I wish I had this problem! lol sorry obviosly i cant help, good luck figuring it out

Stefan D.

What tire are you running again. Also what RPM do you leave with on the brake. My car I found leaving at 3000 rpm on the brake produced the best 60 fts. My car leaving at 3000 will 60 in the 1.27-1.29 range and when I tried 3400 it would fall to 1.34-1.37s. Also adjustment on the Torque arm is critical along with pinion angle. Also do you have an anti-roll bar? Remeber DYNO #s can be misleading. My car made 600 at the rear wheel with a 150 shot, then at the track I put 200 on it and I ran 115 in the 1/8th and I was 3400#s with driver.

The Juggernaut

iTrader: (7)

What tires and what pressure are you running?

How is the nitrous wired to come on?

V8_DSM_V8again

I'd disconnect the front swaybar at the track, relocate the battery to the cars ***...

ETC...



As for the difference after the trans change... Did your first gear ratio change? I dont remember the specs for both off the top of my head... If the A4 was deeper I could see it.. Often given enough power taller gears accelerate slower but light up easier... Ever go 4 wheelin? Your throwing chunks of rubber not sand or gravel but the same concept. Once they break loose they... well... spin faster than with the deep gear with the same crank rpm..

I'd also consider ditching the track arm... The best for most people is a ladder bar setup.. The track arm system is good but has alot more give... It will handle and street better but it can't be adjusted as much or hit the tires anywhere near as hard as a ladderbar rig. http://www.hotrod.com/tipstricks/43642/index4.html.. My pre AWD days with 8cyls had carbs with leafsprings in back then were swapped for ladders and coil overs... On a good track with the power and gearing you really can sky the crap out of the front with coil overs and ladder bars or 4 links.... Heim ends are alot harsher NVH wise but don't give and therefore hook better. There is just too much give in oe style bushings.. The OE control arm system is also designed to strike a balance between cornering and hooking...

This is a hotrod mag article on pinion angle.. Sounds like your on it so thats not why I put the link here.. look at the camino pic and the caption..

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/46883/index2.html

The car runs 9.30 1/4's but only a 1.46 '60.... The short game is cool to brag about but does't go up on the clock for the crowd to see...

IMHO... Get a little more hook then run a progressive NOS system... Less than 100hp in the begining of a gear 250 or whatever up top.... Keep your traction when at the points where it is usually lost... The gradual increase does'nt unsettle the suspension like single or even multistage systems can.. It keeps it planted as it rolls the juice on nice and easy..

TApimp

iTrader: (1)

what hole are your relocation brackets on? you could be hitting the tires to hard.

goober35

iTrader: (1)

I would look in to some tubes and get you tire presure to 9-7. You will have to screw the tires to the rims. Most people make the mistake of letting the car do the squating and not the tires. The less mosion makes more forward. And as most people know less psi makes more patch and can slow you down a little. But with the HP and TQ i dont think it will matter. Try a 9 on the hals in the back and 8 psi in the rear tires if you screw them and tube them also. I think you will get the launch u are looking for that way.

GueSS Who

1st off, thx for the help guys. here is the answers to some of the questions.

I do have an anti roll bar. It is a solid wolfe sway bar (Best out there IMO). I have brand new Hoosiers 28/10.0/15 with 10psi HOT in the tires, these tires are screwed in also. Yes the A4 has a 3.08 1st gear and the A3 has a 2.45 1st gear. I do understand what you are saying about this. I have heard this from multiple people. I don't have a front swaybar or anything else in the front for that matter. My battery is already located in the back.
The nitrous setup is like this. I have 4 solinoids because I am utalizing both the lower and upper parts of the MAF kit. So you can say that I have 2 stages. I can hook a negative directly to the relay under the hood and use a 250 out of the hole or I can plug that negative wire into a switched wire that goes inside the car so that I can control the second 100 worth of bottle. I have tried this every single way possible. I have tried also leaving on motor and then hitting the bottle. I feel as if I can use the full 250 out of the hole the 60ft is going to be really good. I think my problem is in the suspension. Does anyone else have a good low 1.3 60ft with a sphon TA.

Craig, my relocation brackets are in the second of 3 holes. They are lanes relocation brackets.

Did you have a 2step that you were leaving off of. Is that how you were so precise on when you were leaving. I have had one ordered for about 8 weeks from Harlen but havn't seen it yet. I usually foot brake it to 2000 rpms. If I transbrake it, then it goes to 3800 and lays right up against the converter(hense no 2step).

TApimp

iTrader: (1)

get rid of those hoosiers, get some mickey's

Stefan D.

I do have a two step. I would make sure you get one with a dial so you can change RPMs to experiment. Im not a fan of the the Wolfe anti-roll bar because I think it goes under the rear. Its probably fine but I like how TY TECH did mine and it goes up wear the gas tank used to be frame to frame. The torque arm might be a problem, i would get a MADMAN piece. I had an S&W arm that bent and never really could 60 better than a 1.35. I changed over to MADMAN arm right before the First Thunder race and on the first pass I went a 1.28 60 ft. Get some 28x10.5 Mickeys and see what happens.

V8_DSM_V8again

I'd look at this...

Since FJO built it (for NX) it must kick ***.

http://www.fjoracing.com/PDFs/spec_s...Controller.pdf



I'd rig it up with this system you can get the most out of the N20 with the least potential for damage. I'd start low with the N20 out of the hole yet still be giving it the full 250 by the 10, 15, or 20 ft mark.. Depends on the track condition...

IMHO right at the line you are shock loading the suspension enough with the stall converter and transbrake... Just dribble the nos there and ramp it up to more as the car moves out and the suspension settles. Trust me, less breakage and consistent fast 60' and ets.

If it still is'nt right change the rear end to lower gearing... or... get a set of custom planetaries to drop 1st ratio.. There are a few options..

goober35

iTrader: (1)

CJ you could also try a nitrous controller. You might go through some noids but it might work. Or you could try a timer.

taner

iTrader: (6)

some good points there...hmmm. well all of my stuff is BMR, and the car consistently cuts low 1.30's, and has hit 1.27 - 1.29 60's.

tire pressure is obviously very important, as is shock settings. my car is a bit different in that fact that it is a 6 speed and my first gear is much shorter than yours. i do like the et drags as well!

g'luck!

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Sounds like you have a very fast car... but maybe you need to come out lower or something is goofed up with your suspension geometry.

GueSS Who

That is a 60ft for a 6-speed, taht is forsure. LOL

You guys with 1.2x 60ft, what kind of power are you making. Also, I don't really want to use a controller if I can get away with it. I want to hit the 60ft as hard as possible. I don't think I can get a 1.2 60ft if I use a controller. thx for the help so far.

Today I did somemore pinion angle changes. I was also looking at the LCA's. I know the car doesn't squat very much because the shocks are set pretty tight, therefore I figure the LCA's need to be pretty much parallel with the ground as it sits. It wasn't, it was in the 2nd hole, so I moved it all the way up. I hope this helps alittle.

Big Rick

iTrader: (1)

If you say your two angles cancel each other out then you do not have -3 degrees of pinion angle. Your pinion might be at a -3 angle but that is not true pinion angle. You want to measure your driveline in relation to the pinion. Right now you have 0 degrees pinion angle and it's going positive when you launch. You should be able to spray that 250 right out the gate and hook. I've got cars doing 1.31 60's on a footbrake with 300 out the gate on 28's also. The harder you hit the tires the more they're gonna bite. My friends, there isn't any LS1 out there that is making too much power to over power the tires. Look at FFW street renegade cars, limited to 28x10.5 and they're running 8.0's

Brady

iTrader: (3)

We were spraying 325 off the transbrake with the 540 BBC and 60' 1.30.. That's 1100ish HP and tons of torque.. It's all in the suspension.. Make sure you don't have any poly bushings in the back half of the car too..

LS1x2

iTrader: (11)

Could you explain a little more about the poly bushings being a problem? I know you want pretty close to zero flex, but I didn't see them as making really big difference.

DopeFedZ

iTrader: (34)

I also suggest switching to Mickey's over Hoosier's

Brady

iTrader: (3)

IMHO, the poly bushings "bind" for lack of a better word, and prevent the suspension from working as quickly as it works with heim joints.. Nevermind the deflection..

Example: I had my car jacked up and suspended by the subframe connectors with the rear suspension drooped. With all poly bushings, I couldn't physically pick up the rear end (springs out), due to the friction of the poly bushings. Now that I've switched to heim joints, I can pick up the rear end easily, much less friction - the suspension can work without fighting the friction, and it can work very quickly..

Two years ago I was in poly bushing mode, and had a poly bushed Spohn torque arm. When I had 500ish RWHP the car would hook good, but when I went twin turbo and 800-900 RWHP, the car wouldn't hook AT_ALL. I switched to all heim joints and a MADMAN arm, and the car dead hooks. The car does anti-squat with MADMAN's arm, but I know the heim joints helped alot too. And they aren't near as loud as I expected they would be.

There was a great thread on this subject on CZ28.com in the advanced tech section, but I can't find it..

hope this makes a bit of sense