Drag brake setup to cut weight
Rear factory brakes do very little. Super common for the imports to use the brakeman kits and completely remove the rear brakes.
I did this on my Notch using factory brakes with good EBC pads. It literally made almost no difference in my brake power. This is for slowing down on a drag car only. Slowed down my 3000lb car easily from 134 trap speeds anyway. Adeed bonus... No line lock necessary! lol
I did this on my Notch using factory brakes with good EBC pads. It literally made almost no difference in my brake power. This is for slowing down on a drag car only. Slowed down my 3000lb car easily from 134 trap speeds anyway. Adeed bonus... No line lock necessary! lol
The strange brakes are very light but they fade if you street them in a heavy car. My car is around 2500 and it was pretty good, but my daughters car is around 3k and they fade pretty quick after repeated stops on the street. I gave here my 12 bolt and I am going to attempt going to a 10 bolt with drums and spool. I'm pretty sure the drums are lighter than the strange brakes and the 10 bolt is too. I think it will survive in a light car though.
But, my '67 Camaro has 4 piston Strange brakes on all 4 corners and a Strange manual master cylinder, the brakes are great. The difference might be the choice of brake pads.
Fade is all in the pad IMO. Get an EBC yellow on there and it won't fade. I ran 4 cyl mustang discs/calipers W EBC yellow. (3000lbs) No rear brakes at all. Slows down with zero fade from 134 pretty darn quick. We have a short and long turn round at our track and I can still hit the short turn around. The car wouldn't stop at all without fading to nothing with a factory pad... Not even from 80-90mph. Hawk street pad was only slightly better.
Rear factory brakes do very little. Super common for the imports to use the brakeman kits and completely remove the rear brakes.
I did this on my Notch using factory brakes with good EBC pads. It literally made almost no difference in my brake power. This is for slowing down on a drag car only. Slowed down my 3000lb car easily from 134 trap speeds anyway. Adeed bonus... No line lock necessary! lol
I did this on my Notch using factory brakes with good EBC pads. It literally made almost no difference in my brake power. This is for slowing down on a drag car only. Slowed down my 3000lb car easily from 134 trap speeds anyway. Adeed bonus... No line lock necessary! lol
I use wilwood fronts with two piece rotors that are a good 30+lbs lighter than stock, rear I have wilwood drag brakes with two piece rotors as well and they are even lighter. Over 60lbs saved in brakes alone. Ditched the power brakes and went manual saved another 10lbs or so and car still stops fine.
I did strange race brakes front and rear with manual master cylinder. Definitely put in a proportion valve for the rear brakes. Like stated above, change out all the metal lines (3/16). I used nicop lines....easy to bend and flare. Toss in a line lock while you're at it too.
I haven't had any brake fade street. The car stops great at the track from 150+ mph.
I haven't had any brake fade street. The car stops great at the track from 150+ mph.
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I did run new lines and braided hoses.
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Joined: Oct 2016
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From: PDX-OR-USA
There were a few cars that used "bi metal" rotors, they were a thing around 94,, My Jeep wrangler had them, I had to replace them with non 2 piece rotors when I added a locking hub kit, with the hub kit the rotor center carried more load.
Most of them I've run across also can't be turned. Only enough meat in the rotor to do about 2 sets of pads... THen they are pretty much worn out..
Most of them I've run across also can't be turned. Only enough meat in the rotor to do about 2 sets of pads... THen they are pretty much worn out..
This will be my first go round with drag brakes John ,good to hear yours are good!
I haven't got the fronts switched yet but I do have an update. I have weight differences for the rears
LS1 Calipers 5.2 lbs, rotors 15lbs, Backing plates 5.6lbs.
LT1 calipers 5.4lbs, rotors 8.8lbs, Factory backing plate/brackets 4 lbs.
All these weights are per side
All of the emergency brake provisions were removed from the LT1 calipers .
I am also going to run some aluminum aftermarket bracket/backing plates that are only 1lb each.
here's the total . The rear Lt1 brakes are going to save me 21.2 lbs total and 12.4 lbs of that is rotating weight .
I haven't got the fronts switched yet but I do have an update. I have weight differences for the rears
LS1 Calipers 5.2 lbs, rotors 15lbs, Backing plates 5.6lbs.
LT1 calipers 5.4lbs, rotors 8.8lbs, Factory backing plate/brackets 4 lbs.
All these weights are per side
All of the emergency brake provisions were removed from the LT1 calipers .
I am also going to run some aluminum aftermarket bracket/backing plates that are only 1lb each.
here's the total . The rear Lt1 brakes are going to save me 21.2 lbs total and 12.4 lbs of that is rotating weight .
