Gonna try to see if I can document what I'm doing and use this as a spot to get some insight for what I'm doing using some of the experience in here.

Goal is basically to have an basic but thought out combo for a semi-aggressive strip/street car that, as of right now, won't be getting any significant weight reduction or compromising much for safety features as I want to feel good about having my wife/kids along for rides in the future. Obviously the quicker the better but I'm not chasing anything other than having something that I can enjoy day in/day out. There's a lot of guys out there that make it tempting to cut everything out of the car but I want this to have AC and power steering. I have had a few fbodies in the past and finally am in a spot to actually have a little fun. For right now, looking to get the car ready to throw on the bottle in a year or two when the rest of the car is ready for it.

Basic run down of what I have thus far...

'98 5.7 Auto Camaro, 80kish miles that I bought bone stock down to the filter. Just about to the point of install on most of this as I'm currently in the process of pulling **** off. Plenty left for me to grab, but this is where I'm currently at.

LS6 intake
TSP MS3 with their dual valve springs/pushrods
243's, factory pull offs
LS6 intake
ARP head bolts
Melling High Pressure oil pump
RollMaster timing set
Ls2 lifter trays
Delphi LS7 lifters
TSP 1 7/8" Longtubes/TSP TD's out the back
Ws6store 340 pump with hotwire kit and c5 fpr swap
Stage 2 Frank's Custom Transmissions 4L60E, using a Summit SFI flexplate
B&M Trans Cooler
Circle D 5c 4K converter
Lid
Chris1313 A/C version
MWC extreme torque arm
MWC SFC's
Founder's adj LCA's/relocation brackets, adj PHB w relocation bar
15" Bogart D10's
275 50 15 Mickey Thompson's, may need to get a taller tire depending on how it plays out at the track, but they came with the wheels I got off marketplace in good shape so I'll run them until they need replaced.


Factory 10 bolt/2.73 gears is in the car, got lucky and picked up a new set of motive 4.10's with an install kit locally all for $50, eventually it will get swapped out, but it seems as though they can live a little while behind an auto with mild power and I'm hoping it will stay together long enough for me to get other things lined out first. Not entirely sure how they will work out between the 26" tire size/rpm range for whatever I end up trapping, but as of right now it's what I have and from the sounds of it, will make driving on the street a tad more pleasant with the converter I have. I've got a buddy with a fender roller that has offered to help me tuck those to let me safely go to 28's in the future.

Planning on repinning the harness for an 0411 PCM swap here as the '98 PCM's don't seem to be very forgiving.

Entertaining doing the LS6 valley cover swap, I know I have to trim the block a touch but I'd like to reduce the clutter in the engine bay if possible. Any thoughts?

Factory struts/springs are probably going be the next items to replace, but not sure how much I want/need to spend to get results that keep me content, and looking for deals/used in the meantime, more than open to suggestions/advice for anyone willing to chime in.

Last but not least, at one point slapping in Katech or ARP rod bolts was popular for sbe guys turning some rpm's though it seems that they caused problems as well, is that trend dead, and with this being a 98 with the seemingly weaker rod bolts, should I be mindful of how high I spin it? Not sure what is typically considered "safe" but this cam will likely need more rpm's out of it to take advantage of.

At some point the car will likely end up getting a fast intake and the heads worked over by someone, likely TSP for their 2.5 package.

I'm sure there are a slew of more ideal options but I went with what looked to be tried and true options for what I'm looking to do, as the title states, looking to keep this relatively simple, if anything looks out of whack, feel free to point me in the right direction.

 

Sounds like a fun build. A buddy of mine got into the high 10's using a 10 bolt with 4.10s, so it's doable with an auto trans. As for shocks, I just got a full set of Vikings for mine, and when I was looking, I noticed Hawk's had a full set with one that had a damaged upper shaft for $800. Certainly fixable, and that's less than half what you'd pay new. Also a full set for $1000 with no damage: https://www.ebay.com/itm/38773551520...3ABFBMovT_xvxk

https://www.ebay.com/itm/38762782906...3ABFBMovT_xvxk

 

Wasn't planning on getting anything yet but this might just be the ticket, thanks man!

As far as expected times, I'd be ecstatic with 10's but trying not to set any expectations until I get some runs in. As long as it's not dramatically slower than it should be and scratches the itch I'll be content, if it takes a bottle to run into the 10's then it is what it is.

 

My buddy's car ran 10s N/A on pump gas. Had some weight reduction, but nothing crazy. Unported Dart 205's, SBE LS1. He had his suspension dialed, too. Perfect straight launches every time.

 

Would recommend tubular k member and a arms off the rip. Also, the ls6 intake will be limiting you quite a bit because of the snout restriction. Last, get a good dyno tune.

 

K member crossed my mind but I'm at the upper end of what I was planning on spending for a while, it'll probably happen when I send the heads out, get a fast intake and the car is down for however long, hopefully around the time I throw a rear end in it. I'm not tuning the car for sure, it'll be handled by someone that's familiar. I am throwing some new prothane motor and trans mounts in though, the originals are pretty shot.