Help!!
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 21
Likes: 1
From: Reading,pa
Yea I’m definitely down in power. It doesn’t feel like it has a lot of *** behind it when I jump on it. I mean it gets up and goes but it doesn’t have the power I think it should given the stuff that’s done to it. Im planning on upgrading a few things. First and foremost is going to be plugs, wires, and coils while I’m at it. Next I was thinking about going bigger on the cam. I want to add long tubes, intake manifold, throttle body, and better tires.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 21
Likes: 1
From: Reading,pa
This was my ‘99 z28. It had Mickey et streets out back and skinnies up front, ls6 intake, speed engineering long tubes, speed engineering true duals, grump stage 2 cam (car was previously turbo charged), slp air box, and all the bracing underneath on the suspension. This new z28 isn’t close to my old one but I was still expecting better results than what I got.
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 86
Likes: 58
From: Fayette City , PA
Yea I’m definitely down in power. It doesn’t feel like it has a lot of *** behind it when I jump on it. I mean it gets up and goes but it doesn’t have the power I think it should given the stuff that’s done to it. Im planning on upgrading a few things. First and foremost is going to be plugs, wires, and coils while I’m at it. Next I was thinking about going bigger on the cam. I want to add long tubes, intake manifold, throttle body, and better tires.
Before adding the new cam and everything, I would suggest first figuring out what the issue is now, or you may be chasing more issues down the road. Just do a basic once-over, plugs, and have the tune checked or data logged.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 21
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From: Reading,pa
Never actually got to run the black one, i had it back in 2020 during peak Covid so everything was closed. This one has stock manifolds. And yea the first thing im doing is plugs,wires, and a tune. That other stuff will come later.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 21
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From: Reading,pa
Update on the car, I found out the cam specs from the previous owner. the cam is the TSP 228R. With the specs: 228/228 .600/.600 112 LSA.
can anyone tell me, is this a decent cam or would you upgrade to a BTR stage 3 or sloppy stage 2? And is it worth upgrading?
can anyone tell me, is this a decent cam or would you upgrade to a BTR stage 3 or sloppy stage 2? And is it worth upgrading?
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 76
From: olympia, wash
You could gain some power with a bigger cam, yes.
Is it worth the time and effort/money for a street car?
I would say no.
After you figure out why your down on power and get that fixed, i would say a set of heads should be next on your to do list.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 21
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From: Reading,pa
How much HP would you say a set of heads would give me? And what heads would you recommend getting? I’ve seen a bunch for sale on the marketplace here. But I’m not sure which ones would be the best
I'd do a set of nice quality longtubes, up to you if you run cats.
Then I'd go over the whole car and figure out what needs correcting.
I don't even know what a cam only stock manifold car would run with a 3000 stall.
Then I'd go over the whole car and figure out what needs correcting.
I don't even know what a cam only stock manifold car would run with a 3000 stall.
TECH Junkie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 3,050
Likes: 716
From: Poplarville, MS
Trick Flow As Cast 220 heads work very well. As said you need to find why your car is slower than what a stock would be 1st.
Don't get all worked up and start buying parts.
If you want to run mid 12's, you need:
-drag radials
-longtubes
-cold air
-cam
-tune
-converter
So I'd get long tubes and drag radials, and then fix the car.
The cam you have is fine it would like more converter but I'd run it with the one you have and you can make a decision down the road.
If you want to run mid 12's, you need:
-drag radials
-longtubes
-cold air
-cam
-tune
-converter
So I'd get long tubes and drag radials, and then fix the car.
The cam you have is fine it would like more converter but I'd run it with the one you have and you can make a decision down the road.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 21
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From: Reading,pa
Ok thanks for all the input. First thing is figuring out what the issue is. Then I’ll do the long tubes, drag radials, and a few other odds and ends. It does have the slp air box, would you still go for a cold air intake in its place?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2025
Posts: 21
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From: Reading,pa
Update After pulling the plugs they’re brand new. No wear or damage to indicate they need to be changed. Also noticed that when you step on it the car goes rich. At this point I’m going to chase the tune and have it retuned to see what the issue is.
Is the check engine light on?
Does the car have a Mass Airflow Sensor still? It could be bad and not throwing a code.
Can you confirm that when you go wide open with the throttle pedal that the throttle body is actually going wide open? I'd check on this since you said it has a different throttle body.
Does the car have a Mass Airflow Sensor still? It could be bad and not throwing a code.
Can you confirm that when you go wide open with the throttle pedal that the throttle body is actually going wide open? I'd check on this since you said it has a different throttle body.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2025
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From: Reading,pa
The service vehicle light comes on briefly and then goes off. I’ve only had one or two times where the check engine light flashed but didn’t stay on. Upon further review it actually has the stock throttle body. I do have the air/fuel gauge. It stays consistent at 14.3-14.4. But when you go wipe open it drops to 10. Which
after doing some research I’d ideally like to have that in the 11’s when I’m on it.
after doing some research I’d ideally like to have that in the 11’s when I’m on it.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 76
From: olympia, wash
Yeah, 14.1 to 14.5 afr is ok for idling and cruising without any load, but if its dropping into the 10s at wot that is seriously rich and definitely costing you hp.