Paging those that have relocated the battery to the trunk
Here is my prelim list:
A lot of 0 gauge wire for positive connection <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Battery tray (Lightweight aluminum)
Bolts/mounting points
Rubber grommets and ties downs
Ground to the back of the car
What else do I need to do? Any special tips or pointers? I am going to put it in the spare tire area in the trunk.
Thanks,
Chris
<small>[ October 14, 2002, 03:20 PM: Message edited by: Chris ARE 360 ]</small>
I have a Moroso box, and a generic on/off switch on the middle of my tag. My switch will not shut the car off, but other than that everything's 100% legal.
cheers,
Chris
Summit catalog pages and part numbers.
Moroso sealed battery box.
MOR-74050 on page 138
I have the Summit brand listed below. It's aluminum and looks real nice. I can't speak for the Moroso unit, never seen one.
SUM-890102 on page 124
I have a toggle type battery cut off switch from the JEGS magazine. Works good. It has a real nice blue off / on plate. The plate is sold separately. I don't have a JEGS catalog handy or I would give you the part number.
The toggle switch in the Summit catalog has a red stick on thingy. I had one of these and it looks like crap.
Good luck
Tom
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
https://ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ulti...c;f=5;t=001432
Tom <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
just use a lightweight battery in the front...you'll lose weight and wont gain any by adding that heavy 0 gauge wire
just my .02
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And if u wire in a on/off switch correctly it WILL shut the car down <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
JS
Would 40 pounds moved to the back right tire area be more benefical than an overall weight savings of 18 pounds with 12 pounds still over the front of the car? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Thanks,
Chris
The Moroso blue sealed box will not fit in the spare tire well. If you get that one, it'll have to go in the well. I used 4 gauge wire and have never had any problems for a long time.
Run your positive from the battery to you on-off switch, and then forward. I didn't wire mine to kill the car either, but it does kill power. It's great for when I need to weld or anything that reauires a battery disconnect. Just flip the switch.
<img src="http://www.turbo-ws6.com/cutoff.jpg" alt=" - " />
I ran the positive lead directly to the post on the fuse box, and then ran a positive from there to the starter. Just thought it cleaned things up a bit.
As for splicing thick gauge wire, go to Home Depot and they have heavy gauge splicers that use a small set screw on each side to hold the wires together. Then cover it with that heat shrink stuff or something.
On another note, 2 times when racing at night in the cooler weather my battery went dead. This was an Interstate RED battery. I must have been fooling around with the HPP3 a little too much messing with the shift points an what not. I guess you don't get much charging at WOT either.
Lots of starting the engine and shutting it off moving up in the staging lanes when there are lots of cars racing.
On 1 of those nights I was in the semi finals and didn't get the car started in time. A track employee tried to help me but it was too late and I lost. I was really bummed.
I am going to add another battery in the rear for durability. The extra weight doesn't matter to me. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> WINNING DOES <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> . I bracket race anyway so whats the difference.
Just my 2 cents.
Tom <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
<small>[ October 14, 2002, 08:31 PM: Message edited by: Tom the roofer ]</small>






