Track safety -- stock torque arm with 12 bolt ok?
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I have a moser 12-bolt and the stock torque arm. I dont seem to be having a problem, but I just noticed that everyone seems to have an aftermarket torque arm with the 12 bolt. I have a torque strap for the engine, this helps a lot with engine movement, but am I just asking for trouble running like this? I have over 100 passes at the track launching as high as 6500rpm on this combo.
I was going to buy a lakewood driveshaft loop, but now Im wondering if I should just get something like the spohn torque arm with built-in loop. Comments/suggestions?
I was going to buy a lakewood driveshaft loop, but now Im wondering if I should just get something like the spohn torque arm with built-in loop. Comments/suggestions?
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I ran two hard passes on ET STREETS with 60fts at 1.7 and a 1.6 with no track prep. I also have done A LOT of street abuse with my SS running on 315 BFgs. Last sunday 11-3-02 I took the car back to the track. I was going for my 11 sec pass: 40degree weather, no wind, I removed my front sway bar, through on my old 16x8 z28 rims with some 215s on them for the front(less resistance and a lot less weight), and had my OEM 17x9 silver SS rims with bald a$$ F1s on them(just to get to the track on, had a buddy bring my ET Streets in his pickup). On the way to the track we were screwing around(me in the SS, my fiance in the 00 WS6, my bud in his 87 iroc, and my other bud in his 00 GT). I pulled out of a gas station in 1st and shifted to 2nd real easy(just driving normal) and then once I was in 2nd at about 20mph I stomped the gas to the floor(didn't touch the clutch just floored it). I immediately broke the 275s loose and left solid black patches all the way through 2nd until I speed shifted to 3rd at about 6800rpm on my tach! I kept spinning through 3rd then I heard and felt a bang! A bang as loud as when I blew up my 10 bolt doing 100mph. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> As I was coasting i was thinking to myself"did that sound like the sound of the 10 bolt when it broke!", luckily i was only about 1/8 from the track and slowly pulled into the gates. At first I thought I ripped the 1LE trans mount but I jacked up the car and found it was intact. Then I checked the torque arm forward mount(where it mounts to the tailshaft of the trans) and the poly unit was fine. I then looked over my shoulder to the 12 bolt, hoping it wasn't broken. I tore the torque arm right off the 12 bolt housing! I have a custom HOUCHER 12 bolt from a local builder through Rapid Motorsports. The guy builds some awesome rearends Mikey told me but he takes forever. Mine took like 6 weeks I think, but its a 35 spline unit, I remember Mikey telling me. Where the upper part of the torque arm slides over the housing, I pulled the bolts right through the arms mounts, like it was made from paper. I am just glad it didn't break on a 6000 rpm clutch dump on my slicks! I will be upgrading to a Spohn unit. Email Rapid Motorsports, Mikey has one left with the driveshaft loop. I think you are on borrowed time with the OEM unit, I only got 2 passes at the track on my OEM one. If you ask me, I think it was bending ever since the first clutch dump on my slicks.
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Stock torque arm is what I'm running also.I broke the stock one once, and an aftermarket once, the best advice I would have, is usually when the stock one breaks its because the bolts back out just keep an eye on them ,you'll think you ripped them out ,but really they've backed out and let the torque arm move.Keep them tight you should be okay I've 60 footed 1.500 on the stock arm with 28x10.50 slicks.
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I tried to replace my arm with another one today but I can't get the hole to line up at all in the tailshaft bracket.
One of my OEM torque arm bolts backed out of my Moser 12 bolt completely and thats why my ARM tore apart. Anyway I got used arm to replace it with for now, and I will be GO#D!MNED if I can get the mount back in! I have the rear of the car about 10 inches off the ground with jackstands on the rear frame rails and the trans crossmember removed with a floor jack holding the trans. I can't get the damn top hole in the tailshaft of the trans to line up enough to get the bolt back in to clamp it together <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> !!!!! I even tried c-clamps to squeeze the mount closer so I could start the bolt but the holes aren't lined up and the won't line up. Am I doing something wrong here or what?
99 SS M6
One of my OEM torque arm bolts backed out of my Moser 12 bolt completely and thats why my ARM tore apart. Anyway I got used arm to replace it with for now, and I will be GO#D!MNED if I can get the mount back in! I have the rear of the car about 10 inches off the ground with jackstands on the rear frame rails and the trans crossmember removed with a floor jack holding the trans. I can't get the damn top hole in the tailshaft of the trans to line up enough to get the bolt back in to clamp it together <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> !!!!! I even tried c-clamps to squeeze the mount closer so I could start the bolt but the holes aren't lined up and the won't line up. Am I doing something wrong here or what?
99 SS M6