First run at the track with the TR224
To the point, I am not too happy with the results. My best 1/8 mile run of the day was a 7.34 @ 92.34 on a 1.57 60’. I backed that up with a 7.39 @ 92.12, and a 7.37 @ 92.63.
Just a FYI MMP is a ¼ mile track but today there was a 1/8 mile event being held.
My best 1/8 prior to this was a 7.44 @ 90.63 on a 1.59 60’. The DA on that day was -34’ and my race weight was about 100lbs lighter than today.
Overall I am not sure how much I really gained. By the clock I am about a 1/10 quicker and about 2 mph faster in the 1/8. Today my race weight (3463) was about 100lbs heavier but the DA was substantially better. I was hoping for low 7.2s in the 1/8. With the mods listed below I think that is reasonable or are my times on the mark? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
98 Z28 A4 3.23
TR224 cam, LS6 intake, MAC headers, Yank PT4000 converter, cutout, FTRA, ET Streets, Convo Pro skinnies, and most of the bolt ons.
So is 7.34 @ 92.34 1/8 mile about right with my mods? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
Thanks
John
<strong> Just a FYI MMP is a ¼ mile track but today there was a 1/8 mile event being held.
So is 7.34 @ 92.34 1/8 mile about right with my mods? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
Thanks
John </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Should have come up to Steele man, we had a great crowd! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
https://ls1tech.com/ubb/ultimatebb.p...;f=14;t=000454
More to answer your question, my 11.6 @ 119 pass last year had a 7.5 @ 94 1/8 mile time (1.771 60'). So I think your time from today isn't too shabby.
For comparisons sake, when I was running on drag radials and at a 3545 raceweight I ran a 1.53 7.18@94.50 11.34@118. The D/A on this raceday was about 1000 more than yours.
For a first time out your times look promising <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />
I think you should put atleast 3.73's in the car to take advantage of the cam. Do you have an underdrive pulley on the car? A short belt?
Where were your shiftpoints? And lastly, what was your sixty foot?
I wanted to make the drive up to Steele but I needed to stick around Montgomery. I am glad you all had a good time. I hope I can make it the next time.
Mike,
I have an ASP underdrive crank pulley. I did not do the short belt mod. I just changed the tires and headed to the track. The only weight reduction in addition to the skinnies was the removal of the spare and jack.
I was shifting at 6400rpm.
My 60ft was 1.57.
What were your mods and race weight when you ran the 1.53 7.18 @ 94.50 11.34 @ 118?
“The D/A on this raceday was about 1000 more than yours.”
Was your DA -150 or -2150?
John
That was the thunder race that had a 3500 raceweight minimum and dragradial limit for my class. That pass the car weighed 3545.
Futral 226 cam
Yank TP4400
4.10's
G-hanns, 2.5" y-pipe, borla.
My mods are linked in my sig. |
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Mike,looks like im finally getting the TP4400 and should have it in the car in the next month before the cooler weather is gone <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Look out! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> Might be another LOW 11sec. cam only car soon <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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I don’t understand about the cam needing gears. I understand that the gears will put you into a higher rpm quicker and hopefully into your power band quicker and if I can hook up a better 60 ft time. With the Yank PT4000 (which seems to act more like a PT4400) after I leave the line my RPMs hit about 5800 - 5900 and never drop below that for the entire run. With 3.73 gears the RPM would increase about 200 or so. Would that be enough to matter?
I have LS1 Edit and have been working on the tuning. The only changes I have made for far have been with the idle speed and shift points. The stock fuel and timing tuning seems to be working fine. See the Autotap run below.
Do you have any suggestions for tuning?
Link to AutoTap data
Thanks
John
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Thanks for the explanation of the gears and the feedback on the shift points. For the next run I bumped the 1-2 shift points up by 150 rpm and the shifts took place closer to 6400.
As far as the knock retard goes I wish I knew. I usually have little to no KR in 1st and 2nd gear however as soon as I hit 3rd I get 1-2 degrees of KR sometimes more. I have reduced and increased the timing up to 4 degrees from the stock settings and always get the same KR. It even does it on 103 octane unleaded.
Thanks
John
KR that your seeing is similar to what i see at times. Mine is in 3rd gear and will not see but 1-1.5 degrees of KR but i only see it for about 200rpms,is yours the same? I came to the conclusion that it COULD be from the valvetrain cause i never had KR when i was just bolt ons.
Looks like it might need to shift a tad higher like mike said. I would do it at the track and Atap then log it and go over it and see by looking at the ETs and compare them to what you have now. Your car looks to be about right on your o2 readings but you need a bit more timing. With my ed wright tuning i get an average of 28.5 drgrees of timing and sometimes get some in the 29 degree range,but the average is what you want and it looks to me like your average is about 27.3 or so.
Is your Camaro white?
What are you crossing the traps at with the 3.73 and what converter are you running?
The KR has always been there on my car. There does seem to be less since I added the cam and lifters. When the KR starts in 3rd gear it slowly ramps up to about 2 degrees or so and then tapers off to less than 1 degree. I will add a little more timing and see how it does.
Different subject –
My cold start ups are fine but I am having problems on the warm starts. Do you have any tips on how to improve warm starts? My car hunts for idle for about 1 min on warm starts and wants to die if I stab the gas from a stop and then let off real fast.
Thanks
John
Right now im running a Vigilante 3200 and the shift extentions SUCK lol with the 3.73s/3200 stall i drop all the way down to 4900-5000 and the car bogs then picks up around 5200rpms. The YTP4400 should wake my car up BIG time <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Your warm start up has to do with tuning. Mine done it with stock tuning and after ed wright tuned it i idle like a stock car at 800rpms except for the thumping of the cam <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> . I think it might have something to do with your timing and LTtrims at idle but i dunno,prolly would not hurt to call Thunderracing and get some tips on that if your doing the LS1edit yourself.
Scott
I was running a Vigilante 3200 before the cam and my best with it was an
11.961 @ 111.87 with a 1.62 60'. With the Yank PT4000 my best was an 11.774 @ 113.02 with a 1.59 60' I picked up .2 in the ¼ with just a converter swap. I am thinking about changing back to the Vigilante 3200. I am having a hard time dealing with the lack of drivability with the PT4000. You can not beat the drag racing performance of the Yank PT converters.
You are right white car are faster! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Thanks for the help.
John
More gear will put you in the power band sooner. Despite the awesome shift extenstion of the TP convertors your car needs to be higher in the rpms in third gear.
I imagine your car feels killer at the top of second gear, but you will be going through the traps too low to feel that in third. Plain and simple that's why I think you need more gear. Or atleast, thats why I felt I needed more gear.
StreetStalker documented his gains from 3.42's to 3.73's with his B1 cam, but I cant quite remember them. Scott?
I went 11.40's@117 first time out with my cam.
Then I dropped about 70 pounds (3280 raceweight from 3350), added 4.10's (from 3.42's) and 26X10's (from 26X8.5's) and went 11.16@119. Weather was probably 300 d/a better for the 11.16 run.
Also, what's with the knock? You might consider disabling your knock sensors.
I woulda thought the 4000 stall would feel great on the street though. My 3600vig feels awesome and VERY streetable.
But I'd be very proud of those ET's for your first time out with the cam. Hell I may just leave 3.23's in the car for now since i dont know if a .15 is worth the change <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" />
I am having some rear end problems (one wheel burn outs) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> . I just bought a new carrier and when I change it out I might go with the 3.73s. I hate to go through the labor only to put the 3.23s back in there. If the 3.73s can give me a 1/10 in the ¼ then I will do it. It seems like they could. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
John
<strong> If it matters any more gear will make the convertor feel a little tighter driving around. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Took the words right out of my mouth lol The driveability of the TP4000 will be better with a lower gear ratio (3.73 or 4.10). It should feel about like the 3200 Vigil. i would think.

