Any tricks to pulling the dash and air bag?
Any tricks to pulling the dash and air bag? well these 11.1x runs are driving me insane, i want a 10.9x in this heat. so im back at finding weight to take out. in about 2 minutes im going to go pull my dash out. is there any tricks to this, hidden bolts? also anything special i should do so i dont blow the passenger air bag 
i will also be pulling the heater core and fabing up some kinda plate to fill the hole or find the place that sells them already made for our cars.
all suggestions are appreciated.
also check me on these weights.
posi to spool(not by choice
) 15lbs
heater core, blower and stuff-about 30
passenger air bag-about 13
stock carpet- around 30-40
stock bat(40) to dyna bat (13)so 27lbs
im hoping that combined with me driving the pis out if will get a 10.99
thanks.
Rodney
i will also be pulling the heater core and fabing up some kinda plate to fill the hole or find the place that sells them already made for our cars.all suggestions are appreciated.
also check me on these weights.
posi to spool(not by choice
) 15lbsheater core, blower and stuff-about 30
passenger air bag-about 13
stock carpet- around 30-40
stock bat(40) to dyna bat (13)so 27lbs
im hoping that combined with me driving the pis out if will get a 10.99
thanks.
Rodney
The posi to spool was a good move-your choice or not. That weight reduction is crucial--it reduced driveline weight. Have patience and taking the dash out is a breeze. Billingsley can hook you up with the plate.
There's a bolt or two in the engine bay that you'll have to remove to get the A/C unit out... unless you want to get primal with it. 
Drop the steering column and pull the steering wheel. That'll make things MUCH easier. But someone needs to tell me how to get the damn horn thingy back in there to stay.
Billingsley sells a NICE blockoff plate, plus another plate that can hold 2 gauges that takes the place of the A/C controls. I have them both.
I'm not 100% back together after yanking my A/C and airbags, but I'm getting close.
Oh yeah, if you get REAL aggressive, you can pull / cut out the huge rubber mat that goes all along the firewall. That's probably a good 15 lbs right there. The driver's side of that thing takes some cutting on it to get out.
Also, there's dynamat up under the windshield, when you pull the flight deck plastic. It's at least 5 lbs of dynamat, scrapes off easily with a putty knife. It's also in the trunk well.
Have at it, Rodney. Join the club.
Drop the steering column and pull the steering wheel. That'll make things MUCH easier. But someone needs to tell me how to get the damn horn thingy back in there to stay.
Billingsley sells a NICE blockoff plate, plus another plate that can hold 2 gauges that takes the place of the A/C controls. I have them both.
I'm not 100% back together after yanking my A/C and airbags, but I'm getting close.
Oh yeah, if you get REAL aggressive, you can pull / cut out the huge rubber mat that goes all along the firewall. That's probably a good 15 lbs right there. The driver's side of that thing takes some cutting on it to get out.
Also, there's dynamat up under the windshield, when you pull the flight deck plastic. It's at least 5 lbs of dynamat, scrapes off easily with a putty knife. It's also in the trunk well.
Have at it, Rodney. Join the club.
well so far i have pulled the hood off, both seats, the carpet, console, all i did was loosen the steering column bolts and slid the dash right out, i was at this point when i realized how much i mis the old carburated vehicles with no powere anything, they must have 50 miles worth of wireing back there and i know ill never gett it all weaving through stuff the same way it was before, oh well, haha. but after i disconected the 150+ conections, cut the 20 or so tie straps and poped out the 50+ pop in plastic conectors and disassembles basically the entire car i have it out. i kinda like the extra leg room, maby ill leave it out and just mount the gauge cluster on a bracket.
now the fun part, getting the heater core and all that crap out.
but thats for tomorrow after work, i had enough for tonight.
i think i did pretty good for 4hrs of work and my first time doing this.
all i can say is that it better go mid 10's after all this crap
oh well, haha. but after i disconected the 150+ conections, cut the 20 or so tie straps and poped out the 50+ pop in plastic conectors and disassembles basically the entire car i have it out. i kinda like the extra leg room, maby ill leave it out and just mount the gauge cluster on a bracket. now the fun part, getting the heater core and all that crap out.
but thats for tomorrow after work, i had enough for tonight.
i think i did pretty good for 4hrs of work and my first time doing this.all i can say is that it better go mid 10's after all this crap
Originally Posted by SMOKIN01TA
now the fun part, getting the heater core and all that crap out.
but thats for tomorrow after work, i had enough for tonight.
but thats for tomorrow after work, i had enough for tonight.
After about an hour of pulling nuts and bolts and the heater box still woudln't budge I thought to myself...."When the HELL am I going to put this back in?" NEVER! I put that plastic box in a hurt lock and ripped the Son Bitch out of there.
Made it a lot easier to see all the bolts that you NEVER could have gotten out of there without pulling the motor.
If you plan on cutting out the rubber piece on the firewall, there is one annoying bolt that sits dead center behind the motor that runs through a grommet. You could leave it in there and cut around the grommet, but it bugged the crap out of me. It does take a little work to cut around the pedal mounts on the driver's side.
Good Luck
Ross
Right, pop/loosen the screw with the grommet that's in the very center and it'll help you take the firewall plastic out. You don't have to pull the steering wheel, just loosen the column support bolts(3) by the pedals. Be careful with pulling the black boxes by the passenger. We must've banged the BCM(bigger box) up pretty bad because now I don't have power window control or power to my radio.
I'm dropping the car off at GM next week because I can't take it anymore. Any waigers on how much they'll rip me off? HA! Good luck.
I'm dropping the car off at GM next week because I can't take it anymore. Any waigers on how much they'll rip me off? HA! Good luck.
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Originally Posted by Camaroholic
But someone needs to tell me how to get the damn horn thingy back in there to stay.
Clint
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Originally Posted by Dear John
Right, pop/loosen the screw with the grommet that's in the very center and it'll help you take the firewall plastic out. You don't have to pull the steering wheel, just loosen the column support bolts(3) by the pedals. Be careful with pulling the black boxes by the passenger. We must've banged the BCM(bigger box) up pretty bad because now I don't have power window control or power to my radio.
I'm dropping the car off at GM next week because I can't take it anymore. Any waigers on how much they'll rip me off? HA! Good luck.
I'm dropping the car off at GM next week because I can't take it anymore. Any waigers on how much they'll rip me off? HA! Good luck.
You most likely blew a fuse or caught a wire when putting the dash back in, i dont believe the BCM has anything to do with the radio or power windows in the f-body.
Clint
Originally Posted by CamaroCain
Where the horn "thingy" goes in, it is suppose to be pushed and twisted in. If it does not hold most likely the little retainer is broken(very easy to do). If you know what you are looking for you can look down in the hole with a flash light and see that it is broken. You have to replace it. You will need a lock plate depressor to do it, you remove to air bag coil(just remove the snap ring and pull out slightly, doesnt remove, just gets out of the way, at this point you can see the white piece that is broken where the horn power wire goes. use lock plate depressor and depress lock plate then use pick and screwdriver to remove retaining ring. remove lock plate and replace broken piece.
Clint
Clint
Thanks for the tip. I'll look in to getting a new part.-Andrew
thanks for the tips im back at it again, ill get rough with the box if i have to cause i garuntee it wont go back in with these hands. time to fight the firewall bolts 
time to fight the firewall bolts 
the only problem i had pulling mine outta my LT1 car was the bolt going through the firewall. that is accessible only from the engine compartment dead nuts in the center ( right behind the intake ) . i went ahead and got pissy with mine and ripped it through the firewall and somehow didnt bust the heater box at all.
well its out and the only bolt that i missed was the one behind the intake that i couldnt get to, so i bowed up on it and snatched it out. just broke a lil spot on the back.
also removed the visors, did some wiring modifications and few other things like the matting on the firewall.
btw, i kinda like the hole where the heater core was, im thinking about just putting a lil door in there. changing number 8 would be a breeze. may just have to put one on the other side also.
also removed the visors, did some wiring modifications and few other things like the matting on the firewall.
btw, i kinda like the hole where the heater core was, im thinking about just putting a lil door in there. changing number 8 would be a breeze. may just have to put one on the other side also.
Originally Posted by Wesley SS
Rodney scraping that dynomat sucked, and thats a huge hole in firewall, but the passenger side is the easiest side to work on the car now lol.
yea, the hole is nice, i can change out #8 with a 2ft extension now, now its time to put the dash back in.
got to have it back together for next saturday. 
andrew, i saw the hvac plate you were talking about but never saw the gague plate. im going to make my own plate for both, im sure i can do it for less that 60bucks. out of a piece of alluminum
